Korean Traditional Restaurant - Shanghai, China

I’ve eaten here during every layover since 2005, and I never thought to write a review. 

The important thing is, I’ve eaten here on my way home every single time. Whether it’s en route to Dalian or back to my tiny Torrance apartment, Korean Traditional Restaurant has always borne witness to this transition. 

It’s a refreshing break from the weeks of Chinese food and is a welcome change from calorie-dense American. The Cold Noodles are refreshing and light in a sweet-finishing broth, and I love the al dente, part-gelatinous, part-ropy texture of starch-loaded buckwheat.

Stack the starches with a savory Kimchee Pancake. Theirs is mildly crispy on the outside and soft with a touch of brine beneath. It has a stealthy kick of spice as well.

The Bibimbap is another classic, and they do it right with a stone pot that keeps it hot long after the sizzling stops. The rice gets crispy and dry and it’s a delightful mix of the food groups.

It’s not important to me. If this restaurant ever closed I would just sit at whatever took its place or a seek something more appetizing within the airport limits. The international terminal in Shanghai/Pudong isn’t much to write home about, but its significance can’t be overlooked much longer. It’s served as a step between me and home for so many years, and I rarely have Korean food without thinking of this tradition. 

Stinger Ray's Tropical Bar and Grill - Honolulu, HI

The evening is a brief flight to Kauai, one of few I deeply regret. I didn't love Honolulu the first time, but I gained a new appreciation this time around. There are endless hikes, and the island has a mix of mountains and sea, with all sorts of delectable and affordable eats.

I thought that Kauai would be more of the same, so we didn't linger in Honolulu long. I do deeply regret not taking more time to explore the island, and I feel like I left a lot of poke bowls un-turned. 

The transition does NOT start well. This late lunch/early dinner at Stinger Ray’s is the second most regrettable meal of this trip, and I just can't. 

After so many fresh-out-of-the-water cuts of tuna, it seems Stinger Ray's Ahi Poke is where they dump what's left after it's lost its freshness. The fish tastes fishy, which tuna NEVER should, and even the not-so-spicy layer of sticky soy dressing doesn't disguise this misery.

The Grilled Fish Tacos do not rock. But they are filled with rocks, sold as "blackened mahi" that looks like it barely touched a grill and tastes like it was grilled for days. Sputtering, choke-on-it dry, with a teaspoon of pineapple and chipotle sauce that add nothing, this is NOT a recommended dish. 

We were hungry when we sat down, and we were initially about to order a third dish to share. Something told us to hold off, and a better decision was never made. I don't know what happens between the island and the airport, but I thought I was in a different country. I don't know how the food went from spectacular to shoot-me-now in just a few miles, but next time I'm at the airport, I'd rather starve.

Skewers by Morimoto - Los Angeles

The compulsory pre-flight meal. We lack the foresight to plan for breakfast so we always find a combination of something aggressively mediocre or just awful at LAX.

Japanese breakfast bowls seem to be a better option than soggy pancakes or generic egg sandwiches, and the Breakfast Ramen has some potential. The broth is decently rich, but it's hard to taste through the pound of pickled ginger. The fried egg on top promises a hangover solution, but the pork it sits on is chewy like the eraser on a pencil, back when we actually used pencils. 

Which came first? The chicken or the egg? Doesn’t matter in the Oyako Don, somehow both have the same texture and taste, that of sweet, soy-brushed gravel. 

Not the worst airport food, but when you're paying a premium for something carrying Morimoto's stamp of approval, you expect more than this.

Osteria by Fabio Viviani - LAX, Los Angeles

Oh good lord, what is this nonsense? I've been a die-hard fan of Fabio Viviani for a full decade now, and I even drove to Moorpark for Cafe Firenze. When I saw another of his creations at LAX, I knew I had to bite.

First bite and I knew I'd made a huge mistake. What is this pasty-white, mushy breading on the Fried Calamari? There's some detectable salt and pepper, but otherwise it's like crumbled wonderbread stuck to some frozen-not-fresh rings of immature (and tiny!) squid.

The Chicken, Pesto & Cherry Tomato Pizza has a solid thin crust, and the toppings are a combination of comfort food with lighter options. The chicken is tender, the the tomatoes are fresh, and the pesto is a nice blend. Overall not bad for a higher-end pizza, but this is really only a step above PizzaRev.

I expect airport food to be pricey, but you don't get what you pay for here. Even Panda Express is 1/4 the price but at least half the quality. The pizza isn't bad at all, but I expected so much more from Fabio.