Mensho Tokyo - Culver City

As a small ramen restaurant in downtown Culver, Mensho faces stiff competition in the form of fried chicken, food halls, artisan ice cream, and so much more. 

Mensho makes its stand with an exciting list of noodle soups on a mouthwatering menu that has me planning for a return trip as soon as I order. The Signature is an excellent choice, a dish so delicious I feel I must try all the others as well. The broth is fatty and creamy, so rich it's entirely opaque, yet the chicken base makes it substantial without so much substance. Deeply savory and satisfying, it scratches the umami itch without making you feel so full you can't finish your bowl. The noodles are house-made, another signature with a mochi texture that gives them a gelatinous chew. The texture contrasts with a melty slice of A5 wagyu chashu, a piece of fermented pork chashu, and a bit of duck chashu which I can only describe as duck bacon. The mushroom menma is something I'd buy by the jar, and I didn't think that beautiful soft-boiled egg could be any better but then they added a breath of smoke. 

Enoki Chips are an app, but they actually make an exciting accompaniment to any ramen. Little mushroom straws crunch all the way through and are ideal for adding as a ramen topping or dipping in leftover broth. 

There are far too many choices in downtown Culver City, but Mensho is one worth trying. The ingredients mark them as higher-end, rather than your corner bar-stool slurp, and there is a sophistication to the flavors in a way that makes them memorable. The selection on the street is quite overwhelming, so next time you're trying to decide, maybe make a move toward Mensho. 

Ramen Joint - Los Angeles

Oh I love it. A true-blue old Westchester joint serving up steaming bowls of everything good. 

Calamari is a solid start if you want something to share. 

Lovely but not so necessary as a hot bowl of their classic Shoyu Tonkotsu becomes a slurping sensation as a rich and creamy porky broth is hit with their hot sauce flavor-grenade.

Mazemen is a fine choice if you're not in the mood for soup. The ropy noodles mix with grainy ground pork for a crock of comfort. 

Ramen Joint is one of LA's many great ramen joints, and I love that it's an original. Ramen is probably LA's best cuisine, and here sits of the best. 

Kitakata Ramen Ban Nai - Torrance

There's good ramen every square mile in the South Bay these days, but it seems there's no end to the noodle-soup powerhouses settling in. Kitakata is newest to an already-saturated scene, but cream rises to the top, and their unique and versatile selection will not go unnoticed.

For starters, their wavy-worm hand crumpled noodles are almost Chinese-style in softness and texture, and they pack an incredibly generous serving into every soup. Ask for your noodles cooked less if you're looking for the al dente texture. 

We snagged the last Mizore Yuzu Ramen of the season, and it was a preview of so many good things to come. The broth is savory and full-flavored without being cloying or thick, and the citrus uplifts to keep it light. 

Umakara Tan Tan Ramen is my favorite so far, a creamy pork broth with a spicy kick that's mildly ma-la at a manageable level that adds the flavor without the pain. The little cubes of toro chashu have an ideal ratio of tender meat to gooey fat.

I tried a spoonful of the Spicy Miso Ramen as well, same rich base broth with more of a garlicky hit.

Appetizers are good, not necessary but not undesired. A nice Pan Fried Gyoza has a good pork filling, 

and the Juicy Fried Chicken has plenty of crunch. 

I think Kitakata wins the most versatile award so far. Several creative concoctions with strong showings all around. Every time I come here I leave wanting to try more.

Hironori Craft Ramen - Los Angeles

Just a couple of guys, making the best ramen that they can. 

The devil's in the details, and they spare no attention. Everything they can reasonably make, they make, and these handmade noodles make all the difference. They're round-flat like linguine, neither thick nor thin, and have a just slightly uneven texture that brings out the al dente and makes the soups stick. 

The Tonkotsu is among the most balanced broths I’ve had. It's richly uniform and almost creamy with so much slowly simmered depth. A dollop of their fresh minced garlic makes it pop, and their spicy sauce gives it life. 

Summer calls for the Spicy Cold Dipping Noodle, a lighter but no less desirable dashi base, red with a chili oil to add an approachable level of spice. It's filling yet refreshing, and it makes you say "ahhhh" after the 80-degree walk from your car.

Appetizers seem promising, and we took a chance on these Eel Tempura Bao. The fried breading adds some crunch to a very tender fish and a soft steamed bun. Not necessary but enjoyable all the same. 

I used to have just one favorite for ramen, but now I'm not so sure. Nowadays there are noodles for every temperament and broths for every mood, and LA has only good choices for miles and miles. HiroNori is one of them, though, and I would gladly have it again.

Silver Lake Ramen - Manhattan Beach

Another ramen place close to my house, known for slinging some pretty good stuff. 

The apps are alright, and you can get a lunch combo that includes a little something before your bowl for only $20.50. The Pork Bun is an option, but the sauce is slathered sloppily and it's a bit too sweet for me. Momofuku it is not, but it's not bad depending on your palate.

Chicken Karaage is great, very crispy and plenty of savory chicken. 

The Classic Ramen is exactly enough for me, a wad of noodles, a slice of pork, and half a soft boiled egg. Bigger eaters may opt for extra noodles or meat. The broth is creamy, almost milky, thinner but not entirely without the savory taste of fat. 

Far as ramens go, this one falls somewhere in the lower middle. Like so much of Silver Lake, it scratches the surface but doesn't have the depth. 

Ramen Tao - Gardena

A Michelin-mention ramen place graces a stall in a Gardena mall. 

Tucked amongst the likes of bao powerhouse Nikuman-ya and family favorite Beard Papa, Ramen Tao tosses its humble head with a roaring Spicy Red Miso Ramen that has some serious burn. The broth is so creamy and thick that it's practically a solid, and the red miso asserts a salty pungence. Still, the broth is balanced, making savory waves in your mouth.  

Same for the Jiro Tsukemen, another hard-hitting broth that clings to each dipped noodle. Skip the Jiro style, though; the cabbage cools the broth too fast and the bean sprouts make it a little bit sour. 

Umenoya makes the best chashu, but Ramen Tao competes with their broth. These miso-heavy concoctions are well-balanced yet assuredly unique, making for a ramen encounter as mesmerizing as it is memorable.

Jidaiya UPDATE - Gardena

 I didn't try anything new but I didn’t need to. It's still just as good. Get whatever you like. 

Karaage to start, no crunch lost in transit. I don't know if I'll ever truly be okay with dipping chicken in mayo but I can’t be okay not dipping it either.

Tsukemen like a fish market punched you in the face but you liked it. The broth is thick, the funk is fabulous. Dunk those noodles for strands of fishy-fabulous. 

Best tsukemen in town but not for the faint of heart. Many good options otherwise, will let you know if I find any more standouts. 

Ramen Yamadaya UPDATE - Torrance

I forgot how much I love this place. 

The Karaage is right on, and my friend declared it the best he's ever had.

The Tonkotsu Spicy is most popular, a thick broth of savory pork, with varying levels of spice. The broth is rich, but definitely a soup, unlike the semisolid of Umenoya. The flavors are full, but the bowl is a size that's manageable. Ask for fresh garlic and dump it all in. It turns the broth into a flavor-burst. The only thing I don't love is the pork. The meat is tough as a tire.

Taiyaki is steamed and soggy but the red bean filling is as smooth as silk.

I love it here, and I'm sad I've stayed away for so long. It's a pain to get to, but it's worth the venture for a ramen adventure.  

Umenoya UPDATE - Torrance

We should start interviewing new hospitalists at Umenoya using the Spicy Miso Ramen as a litmus test. So much would be revealed for the price of a noodle soup.

"Have a seat."

[Open the menu.] 

"What would you like? I recommend the Spicy Miso Ramen - there's no better broth, spicy miso chashu if you're hungry."

[You order.]

Order anything else and we'll send you packing, dietary restrictions aside. Order the spicy miso, advance to the next round. 

[You start to eat.]

"What do you think?"

Is it the best you've ever had? Yes? At least one boss will vouch for you.

Love it? Advance to the next round.

Like it? Just okay? Pretty good? Noncommittal or vague answer? Red flag. You're a big MAYBE. 

"What's your favorite ramen? What other places do you like?" Answer carefully for your future with us depends on it.

Not your thing? Get up, get out. You're not going to fit in so you can't sit with us. We'll forgive but we won't forget this. 

They do make other stuff. Vegetarian friends swear by the miso, those with allergies enjoy the corn butter and the shoyu. I opt for the Tsukemen when I can't stomach so much broth. 

They also make a fantastic spicy tuna bowl on a hot day, and apps like Takoyaki can be fun. Don't worry, we won't do the Gyoza Roulette with you until after you're hired. The spicy one will be your initiation. 

Pass the ramen test? I'll raise my green tea (they don’t serve alcohol) and toast. A warm welcome to you and a warm thank-you to Umenoya, the unofficial ramen of HCP!

Ramen Josui - Torrance

I never thought I’d see a ramen restaurant drive the most steadfast man to stray. There is no man more faithful to Umenoya than Elias, but even a full patient load on a weekend didn't stop him from piling us into his car to for a 20-minute drive. 

Josui's Spicy Miso is the world's only answer to the fat-globule broth and ropy noodles of Umenoya, and it's the only other place he'll go. I see his point. Josui's broth is thick with pasty miso, elevated by a burst of fire, and the savor-flavor runs quite deep. The chashu is on the softer side, and the melting butter makes the miso go that much farther.

A side of Karaage is a hearty sharing plate. The breading is crisp and lightens with a squeeze of lemon. The bowls are a more manageable size at Josui so you do have some space for sides if the craving strikes. 

Just the Josui Ramen Bowl will do for me. The broth is more like a soup and less viscous than miso, and it's probably the most balanced bowl I've had to date. Chicken lightens the pork, and that perfect splash of fish funk is what turns a fan into an addict. 

Momofuku UPDATE - Las Vegas, NV

We don't bother to sit down anywhere else. No food more satisfying than Momofuku at this point - why bother with all the others?

We've spent the years getting into our Vegas groove, and Pork Buns with every meal is part of the plan. The slab of belly is thick and melty, in a fluffy bun with a stripe of hoisin and a sprinkle of scallion. 

They still make the only Shoyu Ramen I would kill for, a thick, fatty broth that coats every ropy noodle.

Try the Shishito Peppers, or anything green from the market menu to take a break between the bites of pork fat. These are roasted with a thick dust of smoked salt, and the spicy ones will be your wake-up call. 

Chilled Shrimp Noodles are a lighter option if you're not in the mood for ramen. The green noodles are light and cheery under a layer of char-grilled shrimp.

The Confit Jidori Chicken is a juicy, flavor-packed bowl on vinegared crispy rice.

Again, a lighter option, the Chilled Spicy Buckwheat Noodles what mix like a carb salad. There's a perfect soft-boiled egg mixed with refreshing flavors of kimchi, kombu, and cukes.

Some of my love for Momofuku stems from New York nostalgia, and some of it stems from the enjoyment of watching David Chang evolve and grow his empire. He was one of the first east coast chefs who made Asian cuisine more accessible to the stuffed shirts of New England, and he is the undeniable master of all that is pork, fat, and pork fat. Whatever the reason, all that matters is that I keep going back to Vegas, and I keep going back to him in Vegas.