Friday, December 15, 2023

Rich Crab - Los Angeles

A tucked away, K-town strip mall eatery features the freshest, crabbiest Korean crab. If the incredibly popular tasting menu is any indication, the seafood and stew are sublime. 

Get the combo B and get ready to really dig in. Each table gets an entire box of plastic food-handling gloves for good reason, and you’ll never leave the table without something orange staining your chin. 


Honestly, just give me a bowl of rice and a bunch of Banchan and I don’t even need the food. Theirs cover all the bases. There's fish cakes and greens with tofu, classic kimchi and pickles, seaweed and bean sprouts. 


Goes well with the combo kick-off of Kimchi Pancake.


Spicy Marinated Crab has a bright red sauce that's sweet and slightly spice with a feel like gochujang. The crab meat is a semi-cooked texture, not obviously raw but not the meaty steamed stuff either. 


Soy-marinated Crab is a new adventure, a whole raw sea-stinging crab full of gooey roe. Best when consumed over warm purple rice. Spoon some rice into the shell as well and mix it up with the guts for some extra savor.


The Spicy Seafood Stew is a sea-savory soup with a sweeter finish, full of chunks of fish, head-on shrimp and even an entire octopus. It’s not extremely fishy, though it's clearly seafood-forward, and it has an indescribable finishing flavor that saturates your senses and really makes you pause.  


The Seafood Pancake was an add-on of our choosing, an egg-based mix of calamari, shrimp, and so many leeks. Didn't need it but didn't regret it either. 

It’s all about exploring new eats, and learning more about Korean cuisine has always been a goal. There is so much color, so much richness, so much depth, and of all the new-food experiences I've had, Rich Crab has been among the best this year.

Cadoro Bakery - Inglewood

Drive slowly as you weave your way through back streets of warehouses, slow down when you see the sign they sat in the middle of the street. Park along the curb and head up to the bright yellow take-out window, a stark contrast to the sterile white of the warehouse. 

Their sliced bread is probably the best thing since sliced bread, full and half-loaf options cut fresh for your order. The sourdough is to die for.


The cafe menu has a selection of sandwiches, also a few offerings of salad and soup. The Short Rib Panini will set you back $16, but it's worth it for the melt-in-your-mouth shreds and caramelized onion. 

Oh man, this is good. Come for lunch and get some bread to go. No place to sit, and the view isn't picturesque, but the sandwiches are all you need to see. 

Aduke Nigerian Cuisine & Lounge - Inglewood

Aduke has been on my bucket list, and a free Friday had me meandering up to Inglewood. I've always wanted to try Nigerian food, and I'm told their takeout was fabulous...last year. 

A lot can happen in a year, and things started going south here immediately when we stepped up to order. We stared, wide-eyed, at the overwhelming menu and asked whether a tempting-looking dish of baked chicken gizzards was supposed to be an app or an entree. The young man at the register squinted in confusion, mumbling, "We have a chicken gizzards dish?" as his eyes frantically scanned the menu behind him. 


Conventional wisdom dictates that if the staff aren't even aware of the dish, you should order something else. So we asked what we should order and complied with the suggested combo plates. One was white rice, plantains, and Curry Goat, chunks of miserable meat like rubber with a watery yellow sauce that can only be described as an approximation of curry. It's like a person who has never seen, smelled, or tasted curry described curry to someone else who then tried to make it.


The Jollof Rice combo had potential - the red sauce, a tomato-based spicy almost-gravy, had such flavor and the side of greens was fresh. Unfortunately, the beef and the fish looked the same and both had turned to jerky from sitting in the warmers for what was probably several days. We arrived around noon and I can't imagine anything could get so dry in a single morning.


We also tried the meat patties, which were honestly no better. The beef patty was very bland with a pale, cooked but not browned crust, and the fish was mostly dry dough with a small swipe of salty stuff in the middle. 

I don't know what happened between last year and now. I've only heard good things about Aduke, and even Eater LA has heaps of praise. That said, I am deeply disappointed with the very poor quality of the food and felt like we got handed a bunch of leftovers that should have been thrown away. I just can't imagine this is the best Nigeria has to offer, but after my experience at Aduke, I'm hesitant to find out further.

Wednesday, November 22, 2023

Taco Tour #5 - Guelaguetza - Los Angeles

Alright, I cheated, these are Memelas.


But you can fold them and eat them like they're tacos, and who would even bother with tacos at Guelaguetza after they've had the Memela Sampler

Thick masa coasters covered in lard, white with queso fresco snow. It's a canvas to be covered with every indulgent topping; milky shreds of Oaxacan string cheese; strings of crunchy, tangy nopales; thin squares of grilled beef; tiles of chili powder-seasoned pork; grains of salty-spicy chorizo. Add both salsas, the tangy, biting green and the darker, burning red. With every bite, no matter which one you're eating, the fragrant savor of lard wafts through at the end of every swallow, and you won't stop eating until there are no swallows left. Everyone has a favorite among these masa-piles of lard, but I'd eat all five every time. 


Prepare the take-home boxes. The Festival de Moles is made for two, but there is bound to be some Oaxacan liquid gold left over. 


Indulge first in the lighter, sweeter coloradito - it's all dulce, sweet and gentler, round edges. The feisty estofado can come next or last, a tangy stew-like sauce full of green olives and raisins. I poured this one over some stewed pork at home and it was heaven. Mole negro is dark, earthy, and sweet, like a quiet storm that brews beneath. Mole Rojo is similarly earthy but the finish is sweeter with a little more light. Douse your chicken, douse your rice. Drag your floppy, impossibly fluffy, handmade corn tortilla through until it's dripping. Do whatever it takes to get every bit of mole into your mouth and savor every single drop. 

Of everything I've had in LA, Guelaguetza is among the best. Not the best Mexican, just the best. I'd say more about their merits, but Guelaguetza speaks for itself. 

Bafang Dumpling - Gardena

A successful Taiwanese dumpling chain is a much-needed breath of fresh air for what might be the worst strip mall in Gardena. Keeping company with the likes of Albertsons, GNC, and a vape store, Bafang breaks up the dystopia with perfect potstickers and beautifully balanced dumplings. 


#4 sends crunchy-crust potstickers with their signature pork filling, a lovely mix of juicy ground pork and tender bits of cabbage. 


The signature noodle is covered in sesame sauce. It's nothing special but it's nice. 


#6 is a sampler of every dumpling, from the lighter, sweeter chicken and corn, to the savory signature, to the slightly spicy kimchi and pork. Try all the dipping sauces, mix soy sauce and vinegar to taste. The garlic sauce is a good one as well. 


There’s a nice soup on the side as well, this one is a pleasant hot and sour

If you're in the mood for an affordable meal, Bafang is your dumpling house. Delicious dumplings and a super casual setting with tables both private and communal will put you immediately at ease, and their no-fuss, get-your-tray-when-it's-ready system makes it easy to wander in whenever your hunger strikes. 

Canton Restaurant - Chao Ca Cho Cu - Westminster, CA

I didn't know what to expect as I walked into Canton. It's a small-stall type of place, a casual-cafeteria kind of set-up serving food that belongs on a banquet-table lazy susan. 



The house specials are as special as the internet would proclaim, starting with the Chao Ca. A gently slurry of traditional porridge, comfort carbs given a sea-savor by soft chunks of flaky fish, all steaming hot in a bucket-pot. Do not consume without a side of fried dough to dip. 



The Cha Ca Thang Long can be intimidating, a whole production of tender fish filets with a seared crust, sizzling on a cast iron shaped like a fish. Fresh dill and a coat of turmeric are just what this stuff needs, and all the other stuff goes around it. I just grab a piece of lettuce and wrap a little bit of everything inside, and each bite is a heavenly interplay of scents and salts and spices, a mix of soft and firm and crunchy. Play with the combinations and figure out what you like. 


Q: how deep fried do you want these egg rolls?
A: Yes.
No meal is complete without the Cha Gio, and these are the most fried of the eggrolls. The outside crunch is thick and intense, and there's a delightfully dense pork filling inside. 

Despite being one of so many in what may be the most all-encompassing strip mall I've seen, Canton stands out in the deluge of delicacies from across the sea. Hey Michelin, you missed a Bib Gourmand. 

Hidden Garden Thai - Culver City

Too far to make a special trip, just close enough for Doordash, Hidden Garden is a hidden gem well worth a try. 


Their traditional Thai cuisine hits all the high notes, with Crispy Shrimp Rolls encasing jumbo prawns,


fluffy Roti Curry to be dipped in a creamy sauce, 


and they even carry the sweet n' sour fermented-rice Issan Sausage.


Pad Thai Boran is a classic, 


but their Crab Noodle is one I've never seen. Thin, al dente egg noodles add substance to succulent chunks of crab. It's indescribably slurpable and impossible not to inhale. 

Casual, fun, perfect for pigging out during your favorite movie or game. Portions are too small for catering but are just right for small-group sharing.

Monday, October 30, 2023

Taco Tour #4 - Sonoratown - Los Angeles

It’s still a seedy-looking strip mall, but the counters run long, the stools gleam in orange and turquoise, and the clean walls and vibrant murals highlight the obvious difference in target audience.  


$11.50 buys three Tacos to try. The three C’s; costilla, cabeza, and chorizo are a winning combination, though bigger appetites will want one of every option. Cabeza is so fatty-soft it’s almost creamy. Costilla is chewy, with cartilaginous cuts where rib meat meets the bone, but the smoky flavor is quite special. Chorizo is spicy, fiery little pieces of good-textured ground. The tortillas are so thin you can see right through them, and the chewy texture reigns supreme. Unlike the bigger options I've had so far, these are truly 3-bite street tacos and they disappear deliciously and a bit too fast.

Of all the taco places so far, this one is the trendiest. The decor is instagrammable, and it was built more recently with aesthetics in mind. The tacos are perfect pockets with amazing flavors, and both their spicy red tomato and tart green tomatillo salsas are standouts. Great for a quick meal or a much-needed snack. 

Taco Tour #3 - Las 7 Regiones - Los Angeles

A small diner-like space with a huge TV that you can't hear above the music. Casual service, professional and polite, but it still feels like you can just relax and eat. 


There's a Mole Negro Con Pollo where rivers of black mole run over a tender chicken breast and leg. Let it sit and savor for a second before you scoop up some more. The mole has so many layers working together, first the sweetness, then the earthiness, then the darkness and almost-bitter smoke that packs a bit of heat at the end. Drag the warm corn tortillas through it and don't just skim the surface.

Dab a sizzle of salsa on top, very little or a little bit more depending on your tolerance. A single drop makes your mole come alive. 



The Goat Barbacoa Taco is a must. This foot-long tube is a kaleidoscope of tenderest meat, with tendon and connective tissue stewed soft to add texture to each shreddy bite. If this tortilla isn't handmade, it sure has me fooled. Dunk in the consomme, bow your head over the bowl to catch every delectable drop. 

Oh man, this is a meal. You can't leave here not stuffed, and you'll never feel so good about being full. Don't waste a single drop of mole or consomme - the meats are good but the sauces and soups are even better. 

Taco Tour #2 - La Flor de Yucatan - Los Angeles

The building is small, almost like a stall. There's a fridge and a counter and a few folding tables outside to sit. No frills, but the tacos are thrills.


There's a Combo of 2 tacos and 1 Tamal, and it's first Tamal de Chaya I've had since my girls' trip to Belize. The masa is so soft, the chaya adds a leafy fragrance. It’s the simplest of the tamales but the subtle flavors are so satisfying I ate mine plain. 


Cochinita pibil is a soup-dripping, warm and savory with a lift of citrus. Tastes like it’s been buried and braised for days. 

This may be the only time I’ve ever had turkey taste good. The relleno negro puts sweet, black achiote on a bland bird and I am obsessed. There’s a char and a tar and a sweet earthiness much like mole but it’s cooked into the meat, not just poured on. 


I had to order in Spanish and if the spiciness of my salsa is any indication, I may be the most gringa they've ever seen. The red is tomato water and the green is tomatillo juice. But tacos like this need no sauce and they so good I almost ended my taco tour right here.

Ramen Tao - Gardena

A Michelin-mention ramen place graces a stall in a Gardena mall. 


Tucked amongst the likes of bao powerhouse Nikuman-ya and family favorite Beard Papa, Ramen Tao tosses its humble head with a roaring Spicy Red Miso Ramen that has some serious burn. The broth is so creamy and thick that it's practically a solid, and the red miso asserts a salty pungence. Still, the broth is balanced, making savory waves in your mouth.  


Same for the Jiro Tsukemen, another hard-hitting broth that clings to each dipped noodle. Skip the Jiro style, though; the cabbage cools the broth too fast and the bean sprouts make it a little bit sour. 

Umenoya makes the best chashu, but Ramen Tao competes with their broth. These miso-heavy concoctions are well-balanced yet assuredly unique, making for a ramen encounter as mesmerizing as it is memorable.

Lily’s Malibu - Malibu

We're hanging out on Wandermere for the worst reason imaginable, but there's family bonding over burritos, and I'm glad it's Lily's. 

Lily’s is where you go if you know, and you better know what the wait is at a place like this. Online orders take at least an hour and the line is always out the door. They make magic but they make it SLOW. 


I prefer the Carnitas Burrito to the Pastor, but both are pretty awesome. 



Chile Relleno Burrito, my hand for scale. Deep-fried cheesy poblano, rice all around. Just LOOK at this cross-section - a wrap never looked SO good. 


Chicken Tamal special, the masa's a little mushy and it has lumps. It’s not the best I’ve had but something about it tastes like home and you’ll eat it all anyway. 

Dip everything into their demon salsa. It's hothothot, but a few drops will add just the right hit of flavor and fire. 

Love this place - it’s my first real Malibu love. The food is good, the food is affordable, and places in Malibu are rarely both.

Spruzzo's Restaurant & Bar - Malibu

We’re down to a single slice before I can take a picture. 


There’s a Combo Pizza that looks like they flung every bowl their kitchen at and it all landed prettily. Mozzarella forms the base, which is paved with slices of sausage and pepperoni, smothered in olives with the odd slices of mushrooms, peppers, and onions poking out. 


I love all of it, but there’s a nice, clean Margherita Pizza if the combo is too much. Two types of mozzarella make a very thick base with no sauce to slide on, and tomatoes, basil are all there is. 

Very different but both delicious. These are much higher-end than your day-to-day delivery but the prices make them only a minor luxury, especially in a place like Malibu. Eat in or carry out. Either way you’ll enjoy. 

Bruxie - El Segundo

A fast-casual eatery churning out chicken n' waffles in sandwich form.


The Original fried chicken and waffle sandwich is a must. Clean chicken breast, breaded and seasoned to perfection, drizzled with chili honey and a homemade slaw that doesn't suck. Beautiful presentation, ingredients balanced to perfection. 


There's a special on the board, the Braised Beef Short Rib. The short rib is so tender, though a bit too salty for me. Swiss cheese not needed, waffle fries are fun, and grilled onions with red wine gravy and horseradish cream are pretty great. Stick with the chicken, but the beef ain't bad. 


No need to try the side of Loaded Waffle Fries. The cheese sauce is good, and you can't go wrong with bacon bits, but the waffles are carbs enough, and you don't need more than that. 

Simple concept, flawless execution. It's like the Shake Shack for chicken n' waffles, back when Shake Shack was the sh*t. 

Noodle Box Kitchen - Reno, NV

I thought I’d seen all Reno has to offer, but Noodle Box popped up next to The Discovery, and it might be the best discovery I’ve made.  

Even the drinks are irresistible. Thai Lime Tea has the flavor and creamy sweetness of the original minus condensed milk. A lift of lime takes it from dessert-like to refreshing. Vietnamese Coffee hits the spot if you're craving a caffeinated classic.


Boat Noodle Soup is the one they recommend, a bone broth with a bite. The flavor is savory beef with a slightly spicy afterburn and lots of notes of sweet, sour, and salty all adding so much depth. The slices of pork shoulder are tough and the meatballs are bland, but I do love the soup itself. 


Tom Yum is a solid choice if you're craving the sweet n' sour. It's a tangy broth with fabulous, fresh shrimp and soft, flavorful fish balls. 


Khao Soi Fried Chicken is the best thing they make. They fry up the thigh meat which has a lot more flavor than a blander breast, and the curry is so thick and sweet it's practically a solid. Pickled veggies and red onion break up the rich, creamy bites, and the contrast of cream and crisp is a feast for the senses. 


For dessert, they have mochi cakes in matcha, regular, and Ube. Try them. ALL. 

We loved Noodle Box so much we went twice in a single week. Service is spectacular, from some of the most genuinely nice people I've ever met, and though the tables are no frills, they make you feel like royalty when they bring your fantastic food. 

Sunday, October 29, 2023

Jidaiya UPDATE - Gardena

 I didn't try anything new but I didn’t need to. It's still just as good. Get whatever you like. 


Karaage to start, no crunch lost in transit. I don't know if I'll ever truly be okay with dipping chicken in mayo but I can’t be okay not dipping it either.



Tsukemen like a fish market punched you in the face but you liked it. The broth is thick, the funk is fabulous. Dunk those noodles for strands of fishy-fabulous. 

Best tsukemen in town but not for the faint of heart. Many good options otherwise, will let you know if I find any more standouts.