Mensho Tokyo - Culver City

As a small ramen restaurant in downtown Culver, Mensho faces stiff competition in the form of fried chicken, food halls, artisan ice cream, and so much more. 

Mensho makes its stand with an exciting list of noodle soups on a mouthwatering menu that has me planning for a return trip as soon as I order. The Signature is an excellent choice, a dish so delicious I feel I must try all the others as well. The broth is fatty and creamy, so rich it's entirely opaque, yet the chicken base makes it substantial without so much substance. Deeply savory and satisfying, it scratches the umami itch without making you feel so full you can't finish your bowl. The noodles are house-made, another signature with a mochi texture that gives them a gelatinous chew. The texture contrasts with a melty slice of A5 wagyu chashu, a piece of fermented pork chashu, and a bit of duck chashu which I can only describe as duck bacon. The mushroom menma is something I'd buy by the jar, and I didn't think that beautiful soft-boiled egg could be any better but then they added a breath of smoke. 

Enoki Chips are an app, but they actually make an exciting accompaniment to any ramen. Little mushroom straws crunch all the way through and are ideal for adding as a ramen topping or dipping in leftover broth. 

There are far too many choices in downtown Culver City, but Mensho is one worth trying. The ingredients mark them as higher-end, rather than your corner bar-stool slurp, and there is a sophistication to the flavors in a way that makes them memorable. The selection on the street is quite overwhelming, so next time you're trying to decide, maybe make a move toward Mensho. 

Akasha - Culver City

Gimme something good to eat. 

The food feels good going down, healthy like the Hummus & Crudite, with all that color on the plate. The hummus is good but not a standout and acts as an enhancer rather than a self-aggrandizer. It peps up neutral flavors like white cauliflower and crunchy radish, complements the peppers and cukes and takes some edge off bolder greens like the arugula and broccolini. 

Silky cubes put sweetness on an earthy papadum in the Yellowtail & Pomegranate Crudo. A memorable sauce where coconut collaborates with the citrus, a strong yet smooth, surprisingly deep flavor that lingers. I might pair it with a less delicate fish, and then I would drink it up. 

Lunch is a bit of a limited menu, IMO, offering only salads and sandwiches. I would have liked to see some entrees, but that's not on them. The Wagyu Beef Burger is a good one, an impressively seamless combination, with a very juicy patty that blends into the chopped-onion-cheese and fixins. Fries are often an afterthought, but theirs are very enjoyable - they're more savory somehow and even better when dunked in an aioli with a fantastic finish. 

Akasha got a lukewarm review from my first visit, but I think they deserve a warmer reception than I initially gave. The food is good, and I can't expect everything I eat to blow my mind. Here they seem to be gunning for good, and at that, they are successful. 

Go Go Bird - Culver City

It's not often you see the chef slinging his own food after receiving critical acclaim, but at Citizens Public Market, chances are, you'll get your chicken handed to you by Brandon Kida himself.  

I don't know the man, but I feel like we're on a first-name-basis after biting into some wings. The meat is chicken that tastes the way chicken should taste when quality takes priority. The breading is spectacular, an even, ultra-crispy coat with real zing and a warm burn that lingers long and slow. I think the chili oil that holds the warmth and galvanizes the flavor of a signature spice mix so unique, I swear it's a piece of Brandon's soul. We've all had hot chicken, but this one has a balance of spicy, sweetness, and tang that's unlike any other. Try it with all the sauces, too. Every single one is a standout. 

If you can't take the heat, don't get out of the kitchen, just get the Cheddar Biscuits too. Fluffy, flaky squares with a hundred overlapping layers are drizzled with condensed milk and dusted with miso powder, a combination of sweet, salty, savory, and the slightest bit of sour that creates an entire experience. 

I have had so much fried chicken from so many places that I didn't think I could be surprised anymore. But gogo to Go Go Bird and you just might feel like you're seeing it for the first time.

Bang Bang Noodles - Culver City

I heard they've closed, and I've never been sadder. 

Their Shanxi belt noodles have a fabulous texture, chewy and thick. They're long and large, wide and in charge, but there's a deftness to be detected, and precision in creating those slightly curled edges and perfectly textured middle. Szechuan Garlic is the classic, mala meshing with slices of tendon-marbled soy-sauce beef and aromatic leaves of celery and cilantro. 

I can't comment on the authenticity of the Xi'an Tomato, but something doesn't sing. It's very sweet as expected from the south, but the tomato, ground pork, and bok choy are all quite bland, with no detectable seasoning otherwise. The noodles are still delicious, but this dish needs something more. 

Despite the un-exciting tomato, those noodles have me hooked. I'd drive to DTLA for another bowl of the Szechuan garlic - they're absolutely worth another visit.

Destroyer UPDATE - Culver City

Still a mostly industrial area, Destroyer keeps its office hours of 8-4. Inconvenient for many, but it couldn't be better for us on one of our many weekdays off. 

There's no line, but even on a Monday, more than half the tables are full. The pastry case is more than half empty, and I snagged the last Passionfruit Tart to go. It has a light cream and some of that fabulous sweet n' sour, but I do wish there was a stronger flavor. The Sweet Corn Cookie is a subtler show-stealer, much like a sugar cookie with the aftertaste of sweetest corn. There's a Pecan Molasses Cookie as well for a gooey something-sweet.

But the pastries are for later - the real menu is so much more.  

Start lighter with a bowl of Forbidden Orchard Berries. Icy blueberries in a creamy coconut yogurt. I usually hate coconut but this has a perfect, thick texture, and tapioca pearls to bring out the flavor and add a bit of gentle grit. Black currants and candied beets add a rich sweetness.

There's Loaded Avocado Confit, a glorified melange of why millenials have no money. The charred avocado is creamy, the cherry tomatoes are blistery and cozy. Smoked prosciutto brings salt to the creamy burrata, and a fried egg with its gooey, runny yolk ties it all together. Smear all over a slice of crusty country bread for the best combination of flavors. 

That giant half-loaf slab is the beautifully, evenly egged Persimmon French Toast. Beautiful persimmons line a bowl of apricot-passion fruit jam, centered around a creme fraiche you'll never get enough of. Drizzle light syrup over the spongy bread and take big bites. 

The Smoked Fish is nordic in a nutshell. Flaky slices of gorgeous white fish under a silky, savory yogurt covered in a crunchy layer of onion granola. A seedy icelandic rye adds earthiness to the smoky-sea fish.

It's all good and mostly great, but this Sweet Corn Porridge is the real standout. Sweet corn kernels are interspersed with little pearls of couscous, each coated with viscous porridge, packed with so much flavor. Mix in the poached egg to add the liquid yolk, and crunch on bits of chicken skin and burnt onion. Dig deep for leaves of blanched lettuce which adds another layer of depth. 

If you go to Vespertine expecting to see some high-end translation of Destroyer's magic fare, you will be sorely disappointed. Destroyer is where the magic is made, and it is where the magic stays. Both breakfast and lunch are affordable here, and I'm surprised they haven't earned any Michelin stars.

Hidden Garden Thai - Culver City

Too far to make a special trip, just close enough for Doordash, Hidden Garden is a hidden gem well worth a try. 

Their traditional Thai cuisine hits all the high notes, with Crispy Shrimp Rolls encasing jumbo prawns,

fluffy Roti Curry to be dipped in a creamy sauce, 

and they even carry the sweet n' sour fermented-rice Issan Sausage.

Pad Thai Boran is a classic, 

but their Crab Noodle is one I've never seen. Thin, al dente egg noodles add substance to succulent chunks of crab. It's indescribably slurpable and impossible not to inhale. 

Casual, fun, perfect for pigging out during your favorite movie or game. Portions are too small for catering but are just right for small-group sharing.

Ms Chi Cafe - Culver City

There was a lot of chatter about Ms Chi when she first came to Culver, but I have no idea why. I don't know if we came on an off night or if they started skimping on their ingredients to keep up with inflation, but most of what I had here was nothing special. 

With the exception the signature Jumbo Cheeseburger Potstickers, which are fun. They taste exactly like a burger in a wonton wrapper, though I wish they'd spread the cheese more evenly. I only got ground beef until the last two bites, where a gooey river of cheese ran free. I'm not sure how this won Top Chef, but I did enjoy those last two bites. 

The Wontons in Chili Oil, though, were terrible. Tender-ish pork filling, shrimp not detectable. A chili oil with chili flakes, neither of which was spicy, and it only tasted like oily oil. 

Lu Rou Mein is a decent main, but it needed more noodles as it was mostly an ample (and impressive) variety of pickles. Mix for more power...and maximum sour. 

Honey Walnut Shrimp: I think I've sense a pattern. Perhaps the problem could be solved with switching shrimp suppliers and it would fix their wontons as well. These jumbo prawns are the right texture but completely tasteless, and the plum sauce aioli is just a beige mayo. No salt, no sugar, no flavor whatsoever. Even the grapefruit pieces couldn't save this dish. 

Alright, the Tea Smoke Duck is legit. The meat is tender, and the smokiness permeates the meat, all the way down to the bone. I could do without the wrappers and the rest because it mutes the magic of the duck itself, and that's a flavor that shouldn't be suppressed. 

No dessert - I've had enough. I don't know what the fuss is about - Ms Chi has plates with potential, but everything is in need of a minor edit and a major audit. 

Qin West Noodle - Culver City

A new location close enough for delivery, and I am just so stoked. Good Chinese, with noodle soups that get respect. 

The Liang Pi is always my staple, and it looks like it's bland but even the mild is spicy so make sure you have water handy. This one is pretty good - the spice sticks a bit more than others I've had before. 

I'm told you must have it paired with the Chinese Mo, a sandwich of pulled pork between slices of crispy mantou-type bread. The mo is hard, the pork is dry, and I wonder if people are pulled by its novelty rather than its merit.

The Guilin Soup, however, is lovely. Like a hot and sour without the texture, the mild isn’t spicy but it has a lovely flavor profile that works well with any level of heat. Soy sauce beef for the savor, peanuts for the umami, and a really great spread of pickled veggies to add some acid to give it a lift. 

Beef Chow Mein is a safe bet because that's what hubby will eat, and it's an offset for the spicy things. The noodles have an absolutely perfect chewy texture but I can taste the oil more than I’d like. 

Portions are generous so one entree each will suffice. Soups aside, most things are good for sharing, and it's really a great option if you're looking for an easy meal. 

Poutine Brothers - Culver City

It's my birthday and I can order whatever I want. I don't want fancy, I don't want expensive, I just want to do the work. And if you want Poutine Brothers, you have to put in the work. Whether it's the half-hour spent trying to navigate their website (not their fault), days of planning to track their food truck, or circles walked wandering a back-alley to find their kitchen, Poutine Brothers will not be your easiest pick-up. 

But they just might be your most worthy. The fries are a good cut, and you can see the quality just from the color and texture. They're packed separately from the toppings and the gravy so they do a bit better in transit. 

The gravy is rich and soupy without being too thick or goopy. It's savory through and through without being too heavy or dense. The cheese curds are smooth and chewy, and every topping adds a little something. I wouldn't pair chicken tikka with the gravy, but the chicken itself is alright. Short rib is tender, smoked pork is awesome, and bacon is always a good idea. 

Choose chicken skin for crunch or deep-fried cheese curds to snack on if you feel so inclined, but they're less necessary to add to the decadence. 

It wasn't an easy search, but Poutine Brothers may be the most gratifying thing I've ever found this year. Even my friend who's had real poutine in Canada downed his entire dish in minutes. Now that I know where to find them, I'll be seeking Poutine Brothers again (and again) very soon.

Meet in Paris UPDATE - Culver City

I like it. Not my most profound assessment, but it does capture the spirit of Meet in Paris. A casual, no-big-deal bistro serving up all the French things. 

Keeping it casual for brunch. Good service and they're happy to let you order at the pace of a Parisian cafe; one thing at a time, all things to be enjoyed. 

A Charcuterie and Cheese Board checks all the boxes. Salami, chorizo, prosciutto. Brie and bleu. Little sides of fruit and pickles and olives and nuts, all to chase the cheese. 

Truffle Fries are thin and crisp. Just enough truffle to taste, and a side of garlic aioli is always great.

Try the prettiest French Toast south of LA. Baguette pieces, lightly egged, spattered with fresh-cut strawberries. Syrup if you'd like, but Nutella here is king. 

Sip your wine and eat your cheese. Meet in Paris is a lovely place to hang. Brunch is best, but it's hard to argue with their unlimited mussels. 

N/naka UPDATE - Los Angeles

 

It's the 10th anniversary of LA's most mesmerizing restaurant, commemorated by a Kaiseki Jubako most enchanting.

A bed of rice cradles a cache of jewels: ruby swirls of tuna, shiny slicks of salmon, pearly scallops in shimmering white. A buttery toro and what I believe is amberjack peek behind a leaflet of wasabi.

There's genuine gasp of delight as the second box is unveiled. Bright little bits dance around an eyeful of uni. A spiked fortress cradles a delicate roe shielded by a snow crab sclera. To the left, a Chawanmushi brims with ikura brine, a fishy flavor most surprising. A liver full of fat succumbs to a scarlet strawberry further south.

To the right is a variety of vegetables, served in simplicity to maximize their majesty. A simple spear of broccoli or a cut carrot flower may sit in modest obscurity, but its flavor is coaxed out in a way that the vegetable bares its soul. Go lower to get higher with the buttery bliss of branzino.

Take a breath between your bites of branzino before moving up to the softly seared wagyu that spreads across a soy-butter rice. Savor a simple shrimp, a most succulent surf to the turf, and let the stewed abalone leave you seduced and stunned.

Even the Lobster Miso Soup is a memory in the making, rich and almost creamy with soft grits of miso and broth of sweet lobster. 

Spring for the sake if you so choose, a single tasting can be split to share. The Manzairoku is crisp and clear, a waterfall sipped with sushi. The Chogetsu lasts a little longer, more acid to amplify your heavier morsels and meats. 

Dessert is not an afterthought - the Sakura Panna Cotta has florals that sweep you away. 

Matcha Cake costs extra, a powdery mix of bittersweet. An acquired taste, easy to acquire. 

Opinions may differ, taste buds may diverge, and critics will split hairs, but not a single person will decry N/naka. Its story is seducing, its menu is captivating, its cuisine is a revolution.