Taco Tour #13 - Evil Cooks - Los Angeles

Taco Tour lucky #13, and what an appropriate number. If Wednesday Addams opened a restaurant with Morticia as the host and Gomez at the grill, this place would be it. The ominous name and metal-morbid theme is deliciously dark, and the outdoor patio's giant skeleton and fountain of blood is everything a Halloween aficionado ever wanted.

Despite earning my respect for choosing a theme and doubling down hard, I believe only a truly evil person would have chosen these fonts for the menu. I have never in 40 years found such an eyesore, and I swear I couldn't even focus for more than a moment, nevermind read the menu and figure out what I want. I ordered one of each on their most popular tacos list just to stop the assault on my eyes, and this is coming from someone who has taken multiple 8-hour boards. Then again, this kinda goes with the theme. 

Theme aside, the tacos are the best. So many uniquely different options, I'm sold on all the seafood. 

The Simmons is a strong start; presentation on point, a sensual slab of tongue on display. Tender beyond belief, just woefully under-seasoned.

The McSatan is just a burger, but the best burger I've ever had. Juiciest patty I’ve ever tasted, seasoned just so, crunchy bacon on gooey cheese with acid guac and a thick tortilla that's better than any bun. 

I didn't love the Rock Lobster as it's impossible to eat. Cannot pick it up, cannot eat neatly, must be taken apart and reassembled to get all elements in a single bite. But I'd still get it again just for the fantastic flavor of the lobster tunnel inside, coupled with a super-crunch tortilla and sour-salsa tomatillo.

The god of aquatic tacos Poseidon makes magic with octopus pastor. The tenderest tentacles, blackened by flames, with a sweet pineapple tide.

El Goth is black tortilla, black pastor that pops. Super crispy crust on the pork, super sass and spice in the seasoning, a marvel of a spice mix, so good it survives without a spit.

El Asesino: The two best meats they make, complementary color, flavor, texture too. Two perfect makes too perfect. 

All black is back, and I personally love knowing that anything I wear is bound to match their food and decor. The tacos are truly amazing, and I laud their remarkably clever use of very little space. It isn't about the amount of space, it's about what you do with it. And here they're doing big things in that tiny little kitchen.

Tigres Fuego UPDATE - Redondo Beach

Barran's sister burrito is pretty good. I can’t understand the hype based on just their Cali Burrito, but I can confirm that it is a good one. Carne asada remains their best meat, beefy with a bit of char from the grill. There's a good ratio of beans to cheese to salsa, the fries add some much-needed texture, and the tortilla is tops. 

The tacos are still good, no change there, no need to improve on the carne asada anyway. Al pastor has a good seasoning, and I love the pineapple, but there is better pastor to be found in LA. I love the combination of sweet potato and mushroom, and I absolutely love the char on the sweet potato as it gets a bit caramelized. It's a substantial filling and good enough that vegetarians won't feel like they went without. It could be a lot less oily, then again, that oil is delicious. 

Still a good taco spot, one of the Beach Cities’ betters. I still prefer LA proper, but I'm grateful that the South Bay has something good. 

Tacomasa - El Segundo

The tacos are not cheap, but legit Mexican food in the uber-commercial Charger Commons doesn't have to be.

Gaze at the crinkle-style, stall-front counter hued in soothing white with popping bright blue while you wait in line, and then march outside to claim an umbrellaed table on the concrete patio.  

The decor is meant to set expectations - pretty and carefully prepared but hardly dainty. Smush your face into an entire ear of Elote, and feel your teeth piece the flesh on each sweet kernel of corn. That cheese is made for smearing.

Bow to the taco to devour the Taco Trio properly, and lick your fingers as they catch the meat and juices that drip out the back. Try the smoky asada, tender cubes of tongue, and whatever else you want. I went for the tripa, which is fun for some, but definitely not for all. The chewy, fluid fat is bland by itself and will make a squeamish person gag. It's super, super soft, almost mushy on the inside, off-putting in isolation but absolutely amazing when you wrap it in a tortilla and add layers of salsa and spice. 

Two for two at Charger Commons, Tacomasa tied for first. Between that and Calif Chicken Cafe, you have two solid choices, subject only to your craving. 

Asadero Chikali - Inglewood - Taco Tour #13

Lucky number 13, fabulous tacos from LA land near the South Bay, just a Doordash away from my house.

Coal-kissed Carne Asada is the way to go, and the Barbacoa is good as well.

And Pastor is also alright. 

The tacos come unadorned, just meat in a tortilla with side bags of pickled onion, diced onion and cilantro, shredded cabbage, and salsa to choose your own adventure. 

The Asada Burrito is probably the most bang for your buck. Generously stuffed, this beauty is at least half meat. The rest is a bit of rice and beans that don’t want for flavor.

Break away from the grill to get a Guisado Sampler if you’re craving the thicker stew. It’ll be the least attractive plate you’ve ever seen, but it could be the most interesting. It’s worth getting at least the uniquely textured chicharron. Thick strips of semi-gelatinous sponge soak up a tomato-pepper stew that pops and makes you pause. The other guisados are good too but a bit interchangeable, IMO.

They say it’s the rice that makes the sushi, and here it’s the tortilla that makes the taco. These handmade beauties are thin and oh-so supple. I wish they’d let you order extras via DoorDash - I’d pay a premium for a pile of possibly the best tortillas I’ve ever eaten. 

If the list of best new restaurants by both Eater LA AND Thrillist didn’t convince you, I highly doubt I can, in which case I’m not sure why you’ve actually read this far. And I don’t care. If you can’t appreciate these tortillas, you’re an idiot. 

Tacos Los Guichos - Los Angeles - Taco Tour #12

Chasing taco trucks has been a new obsession, and today's journey is one a little less well known. 

Say hello to Tacos Los Guichos, a Florence food truck that sits in the corner of an auto shop parking lot. No convenient places to park, a lot of trouble to get to, easy to miss. My kind of place. 

These are street tacos, exactly what you'd expect from a truck. Warm tortillas, generously loaded, everything hot and assembled on order. Their Pastor is on the drier, more crispy side, finely chopped rather than cross-sectioned off a spit. 

Birria is a newer offering, juicy shredded beef with a consommé that is a bit salty. Not bad, but they can't beat Tacos el Goloso. 

Lengua is lengua, those pillowy little cubes. 

This particular truck came highly recommended by a friend, and what's not to like? Good tacos, affordably priced, grab them to go for a quick lunch or nighttime nosh. That said, there's a reason they're not a legend. Good stuff but just another good taco truck, a good player that can’t quite stand out in a very deep field. 

Ditroit Taqueria - Los Angeles - Taco Tour #11

Enrique Olvera's food is a big deal, but it's not always accessible and it sure isn't cheap. But for those who can't fly to Pujol or find a sitter for a night at Damian, Ditroit is the game-changer you've been waiting for. This modest little walk-up window dominates the back of the Damian building and offers a far more affordable taste of what god's gift to mole has to offer. 

The menu is a short list flaunting some staples, some with a twist. 

There's a flamboyantly fried Fish Flauta, full of crunchy filet topped with queso and cream. I do wish the fish had been less fishy, but there's so much crunch and crackle, it's an undeniably charismatic dish. 

The Tamal del Dia is a solid serving, though it's my least favorite by far. The masa is moist but tastes a little bit wet, filled with sweating poblano, tomato, and cheese. There's a little kick from the peppers, but they're doing some swimming so it's all a little watered down and bland. 

Stick to what you know. Their tacos are flawless, the Suadero and Carnitas both. Juicy meat, impossibly tender, a firm and chewy corn tortilla for texture, and some pretty sweet salsas to work up a slather. 

But even better than the tacos is this Quesadilla, a half-fold with the juiciest mushrooms, a chewy cheese, and a seductive herb called epazote. I cannot describe this flavor. Wikipedia calls it a "medicinal pungency similar to oregano, anise, fennel, or tarragon", but there are no accurate words for the lofty, lifting, addicting aroma that transforms something so simple into something so much more. 

If you're looking for LA street tacos, Ditroit is not the place. Their menu has great tacos, but the focus is on a more luxurious medley. You get what you pay for, and money does buy quality - there's an obvious and not insignificant amount of work going into each component here. So for a good bit more, you do get a good bit more, and I do think this place is worth every penny.

Taco Tour #9 - Gish Bac - Los Angeles

I rarely let a single dish decide a restaurant, but Gish Bac’s Barbacoa Roja is all I need to know.

The consommé is a bright red balance, strong with chilies and savory like drinking meat. The meat itself has a stronger gamey-er finish and slides off the bones in clumps of shredded bliss, actively falling apart as it moves. There's a warm tortilla to wrap it in, some salsa to add the heat, and with a cool squeeze of lime and a dab of cabbage slaw, it will be the best thing I've eaten this year for quite some time.

TLDR: I ate barbacoa made by LA's barbacoa queen, and believe me, she's earned all the worship she gets. 

Taco Tour #8 - Tacos 1986 - Los Angeles

The less fine dining I eat, the less fine dining I want. LA is a city of street food, though most of it is brick-and-mortar. Still, Tacos 1986 is best consumed standing, best eaten fresh from the fire at one of their tiled bar counters. If you need a celebrity endorsement, they have a framed photo of Biden on the wall. 

A mere $5 will get you the secret-menu Perron, where a hand-rolled tortilla is covered with a crackling layer of queso to cradle the carne asada. Impossibly soft pinto beans cling to a dab of guac, and each item is exquisitely made. 

Delicious but I prefer my simpler street tacos by the bunch. Theirs are small enough to try one of every kind. 

The Chicken is meh. Well-seasoned, yes, and also very savory and tender, but what else? This is LA; you can’t just slap some breasts on a grill. 

Carne Asada is king; this meat chews as a tender steak should, beefy bits of juicy bliss. 

Wash it all down with a super-sweet Hibiscus Agua Fresca and take a bite of the placid Pastor. The spice mix is mild but savory and you can see that the sliced-off-the-spit pieces are glistening with dripping juice. 

Mushroom tacos are my new curiosity, and these did not disappoint. The texture is meaty, though the soup tends to spill. 

The carne asada is what you order here. Take every opportunity to wrap it up with the thin and chewy and not-so-corny handmade tortillas, and for your tacos, order no less than five. 

Taco Tour #7 - Mariscos Jalisco - Los Angeles

To try this location of the Mariscos Jalisco truck, you have to really want to try this location of the Mariscos Jalisco truck. Parked along a madhouse major street running through a neighborhood of nothing good, you risk getting rear-ended by pulling behind the truck or risk getting run over by a lingering-left or over-eager-right turner as you cross at an uncomfortably wide intersection.  

But I think LA cuisine was built from the stuff of the streets, and these iconic Shrimp Tacos are worth any risk. I love the crunch of this hard shell that vibrates inside my skull, and I love the experience of eating it next to a total stranger with my plate perched on the ledge that runs along the outside of the truck. It’s a balancing act between the backless stool and uneven sidewalk, but it’s all part of this most delightful experience. The tortilla is fried hard and strong, so strong you lose the more delicate bread-and-shrimp stuffing inside. There's a rich contrast of textures with gooey avocado on top and a watery tomato sauce all around. It adds up to an unforgettable experience, and although it's far from perfect, my mouth will never forget those 15 minutes. 

The Fish Ceviche is a cold contrast to the intensity of those tacos, a balanced mix of fish and tomato. The fish is a little bit fishy, but it's still good overall. 

Mariscos Jalisco took LA by storm with its crispy shrimp, and there is something indescribably beautiful about it. It’s perfectly imperfect, and those tacos are a reminder of how great that can be. The fish could have been fresher, the balance could have been better, but everything together was better than good, and sometimes that’s the best. There are better taco places, including several along my taco tour so far, but Mariscos Jalisco was by far the most fun. 

Taco Tour #6 - HomeState - Los Angeles

Still chasing tacos with unending enthusiasm.

Next stop: Homestate. Uniquely Tex-Mex, love it or hate it, Homestate serves this conglomerate cuisine with subtlety and style. 

True Tex-Mex is a rare find this far from the Lone Star State, and Homestate hails straight from the source. Briana Valdez is a native Texan transplant whose Austin cuisine adds another layer to LA’s already-rich diversity. 

The ingredients are pasture-prime, often organic and ethically sourced. “You’re only as good as your ingredients,” said many a chef, and the three-ingredient Blanco is one such example. Juicy shiitakes add the savory to a melty Monterey Jack on a bed of fluffy egg whites. Slather on the salsas for sweet tomato and biting tomatillo.

Less is more when you have a thick paper-thin (no, that’s not a typo), house-made flour tortilla. That chewy texture contrasts the tender inside, especially in the Trinity, with its soft scrambled eggs and chewy bacon. Home-fry potatoes and shreds of slightly-sharp cheddar cheese break up the denser bits of egg. 

Breakfast is a gentle start, and the lunchtime proteins pack more punch. An assertive achiote marinade makes the Chicken squawk, the hotter bites cooled by cabbage slaw and guacamole.

Picadillo is salty ground beef in all its juices, potatoes, carrots, and cabbage slaw, perked up by pickled jalapenos. It's not bad but it’s a bit much, and it’s my least favorite of the bunch. 

The Potato sounds bland but it's filling and rather refreshing, best for hot, humid days. The potatoes are crunchy and crisp, jalapeños add much-needed acid, and guac is always welcome. There could be less sour cream. 

Simplicity is special at Homestate, and it really is about appreciating every part. The tortillas are as good as they get, the eggs are the eggiest of eggs, and every ingredient tastes fresh off the farm. I'd easily eat their tacos again, but I’d stick with the breakfast options for best results.

Taco Tour #4 - Sonoratown - Los Angeles

It’s still a seedy-looking strip mall, but the counters run long, the stools gleam in orange and turquoise, and the clean walls and vibrant murals highlight the obvious difference in target audience.  

$11.50 buys three Tacos to try. The three C’s; costilla, cabeza, and chorizo are a winning combination, though bigger appetites will want one of every option. Cabeza is so fatty-soft it’s almost creamy. Costilla is chewy, with cartilaginous cuts where rib meat meets the bone, but the smoky flavor is quite special. Chorizo is spicy, fiery little pieces of good-textured ground. The tortillas are so thin you can see right through them, and the chewy texture reigns supreme. Unlike the bigger options I've had so far, these are truly 3-bite street tacos and they disappear deliciously and a bit too fast.

Of all the taco places so far, this one is the trendiest. The decor is instagrammable, and it was built more recently with aesthetics in mind. The tacos are perfect pockets with amazing flavors, and both their spicy red tomato and tart green tomatillo salsas are standouts. Great for a quick meal or a much-needed snack. 

Taco Tour #3 - Las 7 Regiones - Los Angeles

A small diner-like space with a huge TV that you can't hear above the music. Casual service, professional and polite, but it still feels like you can just relax and eat. 

There's a Mole Negro Con Pollo where rivers of black mole run over a tender chicken breast and leg. Let it sit and savor for a second before you scoop up some more. The mole has so many layers working together, first the sweetness, then the earthiness, then the darkness and almost-bitter smoke that packs a bit of heat at the end. Drag the warm corn tortillas through it and don't just skim the surface.

Dab a sizzle of salsa on top, very little or a little bit more depending on your tolerance. A single drop makes your mole come alive. 

The Goat Barbacoa Taco is a must. This foot-long tube is a kaleidoscope of tenderest meat, with tendon and connective tissue stewed soft to add texture to each shreddy bite. If this tortilla isn't handmade, it sure has me fooled. Dunk in the consomme, bow your head over the bowl to catch every delectable drop. 

Oh man, this is a meal. You can't leave here not stuffed, and you'll never feel so good about being full. Don't waste a single drop of mole or consomme - the meats are good but the sauces and soups are even better. 

Taco Tour #2 - La Flor de Yucatan - Los Angeles

The building is small, almost like a stall. There's a fridge and a counter and a few folding tables outside to sit. No frills, but the tacos are thrills.

There's a Combo of 2 tacos and 1 Tamal, and it's first Tamal de Chaya I've had since my girls' trip to Belize. The masa is so soft, the chaya adds a leafy fragrance. It’s the simplest of the tamales but the subtle flavors are so satisfying I ate mine plain. 

Cochinita pibil is a soup-dripping, warm and savory with a lift of citrus. Tastes like it’s been buried and braised for days. 

This may be the only time I’ve ever had turkey taste good. The relleno negro puts sweet, black achiote on a bland bird and I am obsessed. There’s a char and a tar and a sweet earthiness much like mole but it’s cooked into the meat, not just poured on. 

I had to order in Spanish and if the spiciness of my salsa is any indication, I may be the most gringa they've ever seen. The red is tomato water and the green is tomatillo juice. But tacos like this need no sauce and they so good I almost ended my taco tour right here.

Chichen Itza - Los Angeles

The California Science Center and NHM are impressive, but it’s the before and after that matter most. You shouldn’t find your food inside those museum cafes, and unless you’re crossing the street for Chipotle or Chik-fil-a, you’ll have to spread out a little more. 

Chichen Itza’s building is long half-mile from the park, and if you’re new to the city, you CAN safely walk there but choose your route wisely and don’t expect it to be scenic.

Once you enter the building, you have to walk by the iconic Holbox to get there, and it’s neither a walk you want to take nor one I can recommend. 

But good seafood isn’t cheap, and an order of two heavily-loaded Tacos de cochinita pibil make a meal for $8.21 after tax. The pork is tender and dripping juice, and these are no measly three-bite street tacos so you get fairly full for not very much. 

Technique tip: eat your tacos like a soup dumpling. Bite the meat and suck the juice to get a mouthful of flavor and several subtler citrus notes. 

Thirsty? A soursop drink has the flavor with substantial sugar but not too much. A good way to wash it down but not that necessary, especially for $4. 

The best pibil I ever had was in Belize, and this one didn’t beat it. I did like it, though, and would gladly return once in a while. That said, I think I’d rather pay more for seafood at Holbox. 

Mariscos Linda 4 - Los Angeles

 

Their Camarones Cucarachas once made the list of best dishes in East LA. These shrimp are fried in the shell and covered with a sweet and sizzling red sauce with pungent garlic, plenty of paprika, a dash of cayenne and anything else that burns. The flavor is there, the taste is great, but the shrimp are a bit mushy, which is the only thing I would change. 

Move on to an even spicier Camaron Aguachile Tostada, a bold green chile water with perky peppers and sour lime. 

Tacos Gobernador are a secret menu item, a cheese-filled taco of jumbo shrimp, fried on the outside so the cheese forms a crispy crust. Dip in a smoky, spicy black salsa that hurts so good. 

I love Mariscos Linda. Their food isn't fancy, but it is unapologetically theirs and that they're not afraid to make it the way it's supposed to be; full of spice and full of flavor. If you can't take the heat, get a glass of milk and order anyway.

Maria's Rico Tacos - Inglewood

Real street tacos made fresh, nothing frozen, everything prepped by hand. These tacos will remind you of the value of human effort and time. 

Asada Tacos come flame-kissed, tender tidbits with a crunchy crust. 

Square chunks of Lengua sit so soft you barely need to chew. 

Al Pastor is saturated with seasoning and spice and they're really very nice. 

And if you're feeling some nachos, spring for Asada Fries, topped in a mix of everything gooey, a slurry of sour cream, cheddar, and guac. 

Their street tacos come hot from the streets, and both their salsas will scorch. The tomatillo is tart and cold and the red has a little smoke. Support small businesses - this one is worth your time. 

Tigres Fuego - Redondo Beach

Take-out tacos with handmade tortillas right by the beach. Grab and go, sit on the sand, and dig right in. 

They're not small enough to be street tacos, strictly speaking, but they are delicious, and they do have some swag. The Turkey Carnitas, for example, make juicy, savory shreds from the blandest, driest meat, and though I prefer pork, these are a delight. 

Carne Asada is probably my favorite - I'm all for a chewy flour tortilla, and the charred steak with soft pintos and cheese is a pretty clear winner. 

Al Pastor has fruit and flair, well-seasoned and spicy, straight off the spit. 

Although I like the tacos, the jury's still out on the Peruvian Ceviche. Their leche de tigre was too much like leche - so thick with a sweet and creamy finish that I didn't entirely like. The albacore is quality, and the ingredients are fresh, but I personally wouldn't get it again. 

Ceviche aside, even the drinks are worth downing. Swig on some agua fresca or have the coconut horchata if that's your jam. Fruity and fresh, a justified expense. Call ahead for pick-up and bring a blanket for the beach. 

Ojai Trip Day 2: The Tortilla Shop - Ojai, CA

Our day-starting stroll is short, and we pile into the car to get some supplies. 

Rainbow Bridge is where it all start. All-organic, all-natural, a curated collection of basics and a bit beyond, a local Whole Foods, but more wholesome, without the sense of snob.

They have little tables if you want to enjoy the items from their ready-made deli. So far so good - we already have a fan of their banana.

Swing around the corner to Ojai Tortilla House if you can catch them between their narrow window of 11 and 2. 

Their handmade tortillas are top-notch, and the street tacos are just stellar. Here’s one of each with recommended toppings. Chicken is well-seasoned, steak is smoky, blackened bits, and al pastor has just the slightest sniff of citrus. I liked the medium salsa, but try spicy if you can handle the heat. 

Hubby hates onions, so his are mild with cilantro and cabbage, and I don’t think there’s a single topping that isn’t just terrific. 

Take it to the park and wash it down with Agua Fresca or a glass-bottle Coke. Today was watermelon-water, and it goes great with warm weather.

It’s literally a few yards from the center of town, which has a playground found only in dreams. 

 

Complete with multiple play sets, monkey bars, and swings, it sits in a breathtaking plaza. There’s even a sliding hill. 

The day is done quite early as the kiddos turn in for a nap. Dinner is a hodgepodge of all thing delicious, and we relax all night like only vacationing parents can.