Enrique Olvera's food is a big deal, but it's not always accessible and it sure isn't cheap. But for those who can't fly to Pujol or find a sitter for a night at Damian, Ditroit is the game-changer you've been waiting for. This modest little walk-up window dominates the back of the Damian building and offers a far more affordable taste of what god's gift to mole has to offer.
The menu is a short list flaunting some staples, some with a twist.
There's a flamboyantly fried Fish Flauta, full of crunchy filet topped with queso and cream. I do wish the fish had been less fishy, but there's so much crunch and crackle, it's an undeniably charismatic dish.
The Tamal del Dia is a solid serving, though it's my least favorite by far. The masa is moist but tastes a little bit wet, filled with sweating poblano, tomato, and cheese. There's a little kick from the peppers, but they're doing some swimming so it's all a little watered down and bland.
Stick to what you know. Their tacos are flawless, the Suadero and Carnitas both. Juicy meat, impossibly tender, a firm and chewy corn tortilla for texture, and some pretty sweet salsas to work up a slather.
But even better than the tacos is this Quesadilla, a half-fold with the juiciest mushrooms, a chewy cheese, and a seductive herb called epazote. I cannot describe this flavor. Wikipedia calls it a "medicinal pungency similar to oregano, anise, fennel, or tarragon", but there are no accurate words for the lofty, lifting, addicting aroma that transforms something so simple into something so much more.
If you're looking for LA street tacos, Ditroit is not the place. Their menu has great tacos, but the focus is on a more luxurious medley. You get what you pay for, and money does buy quality - there's an obvious and not insignificant amount of work going into each component here. So for a good bit more, you do get a good bit more, and I do think this place is worth every penny.
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