Wednesday, May 1, 2019

Arcane - Central, Hong Kong



I don’t go nuts over movie stars, and models don’t make me blush. David Beckham could walk by and I wouldn’t bat an eye, but I almost passed out when I saw David Chang.

I couldn’t watch more than a single episode of Final Table on Netflix or I’d get palpitations, and few chefs made my heart pound like Shane Osborn.


It is hard to eat Langostines when you can’t really breathe. The sweet tails speed across my palate as Osborn flies across the kitchen, starting this and sauteing that. The leek scramble is smooth and acidic like an artichoke, and the burnt broccoli adds a little edge.


Our theme is fish today...because we ordered all the fish. The Sardine starter speaks to a simple style and clean aesthetic. Frying preserves the juices, and the flattened-and-splayed presentation maximizes the crisp. It makes the sardine more butter than fish in finish.

He sees me staring and locks eyes with me for a brief moment, thinking I have something to say, something relevant to contribute. I look away within seconds because I don’t know what to say. 


The John Dory keeps me speechless; it's a decadent dish of meaty, buttery fish frosted with pale cream and dots of caviar.


I’m still staring and he knows it, until the 
Sea Bass steals my gaze. It’s effectively undercooked, maintaining a plush and springy in texture with lots of juice inside. It reminds me of the half-cooked filets I had at Alain Ducasse. Keeping the sea bass light highlights the radishes and parsnips, which are surprisingly one of the best executions in this meal.


I'll have my Chestnut Mousse and eat it. 
It’s silky-sweet; elegance over decadence with ripe cherries and a burnt sugar crust to add some crunch.


We conclude with the world's best creamsicle, a Yuzu and Lemon Posset of magical citrus with highlights of orange blood.



Caneles for the door. So fluffy and fresh they rebound when you take a bite. I haven't had a real one in ten years.

Elegant presentation, sleek lines, linear flavors that are minimalist and maximized, harmonious and clean. Shane Osborn's style It gives every element its own chance to shine, and I love the meticulous attention placed on every single individual item. The demographic is older, more suitable for those who like what they like and want it done in the best way possible, in a way that is unforgettable. 

I will never forget this fantastic chef, but I hope he forgets me soon...the under-dressed woman who dumped caviar all over the table.

No comments:

Post a Comment