Arcane - Central, Hong Kong

I don’t go nuts over movie stars, and models don’t make me blush. David Beckham could walk by and I wouldn’t bat an eye, but I almost passed out when I saw David Chang.

I couldn’t watch more than a single episode of Final Table on Netflix or I’d get palpitations, and few chefs made my heart pound like Shane Osborn.

It is hard to eat Langostines when you can’t really breathe. The sweet tails speed across my palate as Osborn flies across the kitchen, starting this and sauteing that. The leek scramble is smooth and acidic like an artichoke, and the burnt broccoli adds a little edge.

Our theme is fish today...because we ordered all the fish. The Sardine starter speaks to a simple style and clean aesthetic. Frying preserves the juices, and the flattened-and-splayed presentation maximizes the crisp. It makes the sardine more butter than fish in finish.

He sees me staring and locks eyes with me for a brief moment, thinking I have something to say, something relevant to contribute. I look away within seconds because I don’t know what to say. 

The John Dory keeps me speechless; it's a decadent dish of meaty, buttery fish frosted with pale cream and dots of caviar.

I’m still staring and he knows it, until the Sea Bass steals my gaze. It’s effectively undercooked, maintaining a plush and springy in texture with lots of juice inside. It reminds me of the half-cooked filets I had at Alain Ducasse. Keeping the sea bass light highlights the radishes and parsnips, which are surprisingly one of the best executions in this meal.

I'll have my Chestnut Mousse and eat it. It’s silky-sweet; elegance over decadence with ripe cherries and a burnt sugar crust to add some crunch.

We conclude with the world's best creamsicle, a Yuzu and Lemon Posset of magical citrus with highlights of orange blood.

Caneles for the door. So fluffy and fresh they rebound when you take a bite. I haven't had a real one in ten years.

Elegant presentation, sleek lines, linear flavors that are minimalist and maximized, harmonious and clean. Shane Osborn's style It gives every element its own chance to shine, and I love the meticulous attention placed on every single individual item. The demographic is older, more suitable for those who like what they like and want it done in the best way possible, in a way that is unforgettable. 

I will never forget this fantastic chef, but I hope he forgets me soon...the under-dressed woman who dumped caviar all over the table.

Oolaa - Sheung Wan, Hong Kong

The city is full of sexy cafes, and here is one of them. Cafe Oolaa, has some serious o-la-la! 

The setup is cute and high-end, and they make the prettiest Cappuccino in the city. 

And a pretty good Iced Latte as well.

They have all sorts of easy eats, lighter for breakfast, more substantial for later on. Muesli fares well with blackberries and razz, like a bowl of fluffier cereal. 

Fruit Salad with Greek yogurt and a super bloom of all-pulp mangoes, sweet-no-sour pineapple, juicy peaches, and the first strawberries of the season.

This is a chill place that makes you want to linger, and it’s the perfect morning cup of coffee or a midday meal/snack. It’s conveniently right behind the Man Mo Temple, and it’s definitely a detour you might want to take when mapping your morning.

Hong Kong - Day 7 - Man Mo Temple - Sheung Wan

Before I went to Hong Kong, I heard a lot of things about it. Most things were positive, describing it as "cool", "fun", "delicious". Some things I heard were a lot less positive, the SMH comments, “It’s just another city” or “It’s a very small city so there's not much to do.” 

I can't help by wonder if the haters went to a different city or if they just didn't bother to explore. Hong Kong may not be a sprawling metropolis, and it may not be home to the Forbidden City, but it’s big enough and bad-ass enough to ahve a little something for everyone. There’s so much diversity, and it's not just any city, it's every city. 

One unique aspect of Hong Kong is its open juxtaposition of cosmopolitan-modern and old-China tradition. Western ideals have gone uncensored for centuries, and it's a port of information exchange. And between the sleek skyscrapers and trendy eateries, there are glimpses of tradition and belief systems like Man Mo Temple.. 

It’s small on the outside, stunning within. 

Dedicated to the literature and martial gods, its popularity with those seeking to better themselves amongst a backdrop of cut-throat competition explains why it's so well maintained.

I love the altars, the statues, all the hanging lights.

It’s smoky from all the incense, but the cloud creates something almost like sensory deprivation, and it insulates as much as it isolates, allowing you to stay more present. 

I love this temple. In a city that's always moving, it's a place to stand still and appreciate it all.

Tsui Wah - LKF, Hong Kong

Avoid the LKF tourist-traps and come to this all-nighter where you can beat your hangover with all sorts of traditional Hong Kong cuisine. 

We try them all, starting with a drink. No booze served here - you should be a little drunk by the time you get here. I personally find the Hong Kong Milk Tea even more intoxicating. The tea asserts itself through the mollifying milk and cream. Try is cold and try it hot. Both are bomb.

A thick Malaysian Curry is full of chunky beef and tendon. The potatoes soak up all the sauce, and the tendon is chewy and soft. It's curry heaven over rice. 

A casserole of fried pork chop is topped with tomato sauce and cheese. Think chicken parm for Asians who did it better...Maybe pasta isn't the only thing Marco Polo borrowed...

Hainan Chicken is another must - it’s hard to come by and even harder to do well. The bland, blanched chicken remains savory, but I wish they made garlic rice. 

Eat your vegetables - try the Okra on ice. The okra is steamed but still crispy, and I love it with a splash of soy and wasabi.

The best food in Hong Kong: Bread with condensed milk and butter. It tastes like it sounds, but it's indescribably delicious.

Less $50 USD to feed three hungry people, and the food comes out instantly. There's less than ten minutes between ordering and arrival, and each dish is perfect. If I'd known the diner food was this good, I could have skipped all the Michelins.

Ce La Vie - LKF, Hong Kong

A few blocks down and a few streets over, the dark side of the city subsists. The notorious tourist-town, party-central LKF where only a taser would keep promoters from physically dragging you in for a free shot and overpriced food.

Don’t go into any of those places, let Ce La Vie shelter you from the storm. It’s a classy rooftop reprieve from the chaotic streets below. 

So take shelter while you’re relatively sober and enjoy the city lights. 

I’m sipping on a Jasmine Blossom, something floral and smooth. I can barely taste the vodka, and they need to add a little more. 

Still this bar is worth a visit. Go only for the view. 

Bo Innovation - Central, Hong Kong

Bo Innovation. The 3-star playground of Alvin Leung. 

Within these cerulean walls, the demon chef preys on your darkest foodie fantasies. The food is all the culinary debauchery you can imagine plus a little more. 

The bread course is the first to touch the table, and it lands suspiciously, street-food Egg Puffs peeking from a paper bag. The sweet dessert becomes a savory ham sandwich with chives and the legendary Yunnan pork.

The first course of Corn is elote in gestalt. A pudding-cream glues the kernels into sweet surrender, and a gentle flash of Pat Chun vinegar highlights the corn.

Clever. You experience the meticulous arrangements before you even taste the food.  Prepare for your next dish from your pull-out drawer of silverware. It creates a strangely significant sense of autonomy, the ability to select your own utensils without relying upon the swiftness of a server.

Watch the lights flicker on under a powerful vial of shrimp oil. 

See it, breathe it in as it sweeps across each preparation of Brittany Lobster. Let the floppy slices of shaved truffle fold over each morsel of sweet lobster meat and slivery tartare. 

The oil brightens the lobster with fishy umami notes, and the creamy whipped potatoes add a slip of silk to the texture. Resist the temptation to eat everything separately - the collaboration of flavors turns exceptional unimaginable. 

A Hokkaido Scallop. Tender and meaty, soft but mighty. The peas are along a similar vein, and their sugar submits to the Shanghai vinegar.

Let the Foie Gras awaken your list for the liquid liver. Charcoal mantou encase and isolate the fat, making room for the structured theme of the bamboo. Add pomelo pulp for contrast.

The plating honors its purpose as the scaffolding that built the city.  

You can’t look away from these, the X-treme XLB. A fragile yolk of seaweed houses a savory broth within. The wrapper is thin and slick, and it easily gives in your mouth. The bubble bursts to and your mouth fills with porky soup.

An imperial cup carries a palate cleanser of juices pea flower, a dash of citrus, and a dab of mou tai. The green creates a refresher that gives finishes both gentle and lush. 

A supple block of Haida Gwaii Black Cod lounges across mushroom cliffs, waiting under an umbrella of Iberico ham. Almonds add a little nutty savor, and they sail across pork broth sea.

The Suckling Pig Leg will make you feel dirty despite its skin so clean. The skin is so crisp it splits without shearing, and the white meat of the leg simply floats away on your tongue.

There’s a sharp salad of raw greens in a spunky vinaigrette when your palate needs a reset.

And there’s a red-hot roasted pineapple with Sichuan peppercorns when you need to be more seduced.

A chicken bowl for the Chicken Rice. A ricey soup or a soupy rice? It tastes like risotto but they use no cheese or cream. 

Dried abalone and dried foie gras are shaved on top at tableside.

No Shark Fin. 

They found some agar strips to approximate the texture. It’s gelatinous and stringy, like jelly vermicelli, a humane dessert I can eat with zero guilt. 

Even their post-dinner Jasmine Tea is transforming.

The pod blooms as the tea steeps.

Bo Innovation is as seductive as it is fascinating. This tasting menu scratches an itch so deep you didn’t know you had it, and it opens a world of flavor and skill the likes of which you’ve never seen. This kitchen cooks up a powerful combination of everything I’ve ever loved: science, food, and fat.