Kuya Lord - Los Angeles

For me the food at Kuya Lord was indescribable...or maybe just unpronounceable. 

Because I have a lot of words for the string-tied, herb-filled Lucenachon, a Filipino porchetta with skin that cracks like a splintering plank of wood when you break it and makes melty crunchies with the liquid fat at meat beneath.

Inihaw Na Sugpo Sa Aligue is a mouthful...of beautiful blue prawns with such gooey, spicy heads still on, just oozing with garlic chili sauce. 

Lechon Kawali is lovely, all belly, good skin. Dip in vinegar for best results.

All trays come with Java Garlic Rice, which pairs well with any protein. The ropy noodles of the Pancit Chami have a fantastic texture and a fragrant sweet n' fishy finish. Housemade Achara is best between bites to break up the big meats.

Everyone's had a little lechon, but Kuya Lord goes above and beyond. The porks are perfection, the prawns are a marvel, and the sides are satisfying as well. I dare say this is the best Filipino barbecue in LA, one I'll be frequenting in pursuit of porchetta. 

Pete's BBQ - Ramona, CA

The only non-chain we tried was Pete's, and at first it looked like my kind of place. Super-local, super small-scale, the counter sits inside a liquor store, where you can purchase your libations with which to wash down whatever you order.

The portions will give you plenty of food, but the quality is inconsistent. 

Brisket Plate has tender pieces, good smoke, better than I expected, especially out of Texas. Dinner rolls are buttery and beautifully toasted, highly recommended for making a sandwich.

Little loaves of Cornbread looked prettier than they tasted. Not bad but a bit bland. 

Other sides were whatever, sweet but watery baked beans, lackluster mac n' cheese, generic coleslaw with more sauce than slaw. 

Half a rack of Ribs has good smoke and tender meat, just-right red inside and almost falls off the bone. They did this one right.

They didn't include any sauces in my pick-up order, and I didn't think to check. Most of the meat was seasoned well and didn't really need it, the Pulled Pork being a glaring exception. I come from North Carolina so this drier, watery-in-the-middle mess had me unimpressed. The fries are fine, and the onion rings crunch. 

I do think the barbecue would have been better earlier, but we picked it up during dinner time (5-6 PM) so it shouldn't have looked and tasted like it sat out all day. I wish I could love this place, but I can only say it was mostly okay given the not-too-fresh and sat-out-to-dry nature of the meat. 

Harry's Oklahoma Style Smokehouse BBQ - Lomita

Harry's is new to me, but they've been killing it for years. Only after 3 or so decades of exclusive catering have they added a small dining area to their algorithm, where a pair of colleagues or a few good friends can enjoy a register-to-grill-to-table meal.

And what a meal it has been. The reason behind their catering success is clear, and it started with the tender, smoky-ringed Pork Ribs. The Brisket is also brilliant, tying the ribs for first - even the lean bits are silky-soft, and for only the second time in SoCal, I've found the smoke to be strong enough. 

Their specialty is Tri-Tip, which is good and steak-y. It's quite different from the usual suspects; more chewing, less shredding, plenty of beefy juice. Burnt Ends are never a bad idea, but I do think the brisket is better. The Fried Okra is fantastic. 

The ambiance is casual contentment, simple tables sitting under photos of famous people. The competence justifies their confidence, and their longevity speaks volumes. In a world where everyone struggles to remain relevant, classics like this are here to stay. I don't know Oklahoma, and I didn't know Harry's, but after having had Harry's, I'd sure like to know both better. 

Lawrence Barbecue - Durham, NC

I forgot how nice it is to have a lot of space. Everything is so spread out down south, even in settled cities like Raleigh and Durham. I absolutely LOVE the location of Lawrence Barbecue, the seemingly middle-of-nowhere Boxyard. Someone stacked a bunch of shipping-container shops selling everything from barbecue to pizza and beer to ice cream and clothes and created a courtyard with shaded picnic tables where you can enjoy your haul. 

Lawrence Barbecue is the main mission, and with two kids and a dad in the car, it was a regular grab and go. 

My tray is a sampler of everything but the wings, which I now wish I hadn't missed. First, the special, the Hoodoo Brown Crispy Skin Pork Belly with a skin so loud you swear you bit right down into a bone. You feel that crack deep in your skull, and the river of fat-juice that flows from the belly layers beneath is just so savory. The contrasting textures and the technique required to get them should not be overlooked. Stack on potato bread and eat with all the pickles.

It's been so long since I've had ribs fall off the bone, I had started to think they were going out of style. But quality is always in fashion, and they know how to make pork ribs properly. Lovely smoke, sosoSO tender. I always pick brisket over ribs, but these might be my favorite thing here. 

That's no reason to skip the Brisket, though. The smoke is solid on these fall-apart slices, and that pile of pulled pork in the corner is also sure to please. 

You're here for the meat, but the sides are strong, and you'll need at least some Slaw to balance out the meaty-meat. Theirs makes a crunchy contrast, and the vinegar dressing keeps it light. Baked Beans are beefy and smoky, a thick and meaty mix with bits of brisket in between. Too heavy to stand aside but too delicious not to try. They also get creative with the Brussels, which are darkly charred, burnt and bitter but finish cheesy and sweet with a pickled hit at the end. 

It's been a long time since I've had BBQ this good, and I think the secret is in small-batch. A peek around the corner reveals only three smokers so they have to make every bite count. Best BBQ I've had this year, top 5 for life.

The Wood Urban Kitchen - Inglewood

I rarely see such a disconnect between the Eater opinion and the public opinion,and their abysmal 3-star average on Yelp should raise a few eyebrows. 

The barbecue itself isn't bad. In fact, it's pretty good. The Ribs have some solid smoke, and the meat comes off (but doesn't fall off) the bone with minimal gnawing. It's the sea of sauce that's baffling. I know ribs get basted in sauce, but this is half a squeeze-bottle on top. There's more sauce than meat and I had to scrape SO much off.

The sauce itself has a Sweet Baby Ray’s vibe, a little sugar, a little tang. It wouldn't make a lasting impression by itself so I guess they made sure you remembered it by sheer volume. 

Onto the Brisket, which California rarely does right. This one has a proper smoke in it, and the slices are quite tender, but again with the sauce. HARD PASS on the Chicken Links because they are inexplicably mealy and DryDryDRY, compressed sawdust in the shape of a sausage. 

The Pulled Pork is great, and it makes a strong, sauce-soup sandwich. But it does suspiciously resemble the ribs in both appearance and texture...

The sides are all good here, baked beans, slaw, etc. Mac n' cheese hits, and street corn is a SoCal signature. 

I don't hate the meat, but the way they did that sauce-slop, it was like they were trying to cover something up. Overall not bad, but the prices are quite concerning. 

The Salt Lick - Driftwood, TX

A lot of us picked up some pretty bad habits during the pandemic. I did too. I didn't drink, and I didn't smoke, but I started paying other people to do some serious smoking on my behalf. That's right, I got addicted to mail-order barbecue. Thanks to dry ice and overnight shipping, there was no telling how far frozen bricks of brisket and entire racks of ribs could come. It started with Snow's and most recently settled at Salt Lick. 

It all started because of Thanksgiving, as I've vowed to never brine another turkey. Salt Lick has this Spicy Smoked Turkey Breast that adds some oomph to an otherwise boring bird. There is no meat I detest more than the slab of drywall that is a turkey breast, but this one is almost interesting. It could use a little more smoke, but you can see it from the faint pink glow of the meat, and they aren't stingy about the spice. It’s a sharp and perky, somewhat peppery burn that is stimulating and almost exciting. That's high praise from me - I've never met a turkey breast I could tolerate, never mind one I could like. Now if only they’d smoke and spice some turkey legs instead, I’d be ordering those every year. 

The classics are the classics. The Brisket is a boon, though the smoke is not as strong as Black’s.

The Sausage has a snappy casing with nice notes of pepper, and a sweet finish that most would enjoy. 

The Pork Ribs are alright. Not falling off the bone but not clinging for life either. Better when basted, and I do love their mustard-strong sauce. 

Beef Rib is also okay, good stuff but not my favorite, like most of the stuff here compared to legends like Snow's and Black's. Everything seems a bit more subtle, still all the makings of a classic, more like a strong backup singer; carries the harmony but doesn't overshadow the lead. Still, it's good stuff. Not a new favorite but zero regrets all the same. 

Moo’s Craft Barbecue - Los Angeles

Finally, someone who knows how to use a smoker! 

Wow, this Brisket. Fall-apart, just the right meat-to-fat ratio in every slice, deep smoke through and through. Pork Belly Burnt Ends are perfect as well, oozing with a sweet Korean-style glaze. 

Everything here is so flavorful, savory all the way through, no details have been missed. Even the pickles have a kick, and the sweet and tangy bbq sauce and mustard are both great for saucing up the Pulled Pork, which, while juicy and tender, doesn't quite reach the depth of the other two. 

The sides are a lie. Sure, the Slaw is lovely, with just the right combination of creaminess and tang, but if I only had the Beans with some rice as a meal, I would have given Moo's 5 stars on that alone. They’re too good to be just a side, flavored with abundant brisket bits and a warmly spicy zing. 

BEST bbq in LA. This one could actually stand up to some of the stuff I've seen from Texas, and every bite is exceptional. There's a lunch line out the door even on a Friday, and there's a reason they sell out fast. 

Smoke Queen Barbecue - Garden Grove

The line is long, the parking lot is always full. Get there early, walk a few blocks from your street parking, and wait patiently in line because most things sell out long before the day is done. 

If you have enough friends, a catering order allows you to skip the line. Order one of almost everything, just be prepared to empty your fridge and your wallet and not cook for over a week. 

Sundays are the best days because of the Gochujang Beef Rib special. The smoke is solid, and the sweet Korean glaze is a nice twist on a classic Texas Q. The meat is quite tender, though there are some tougher bits that cling close to the bone. 

Pork Ribs are alright. The meat doesn't fall off the bone, and I think the beef ribs are all you need.

Smoked Chicken Quarters are smoky and tender with a potent rub and plenty of smoke. No chicken has ever or should ever eclipse the pork or beef, but if you're into chicken, these are sure to impress. 

Brisket is another staple. Good smoke, a pretty moist meat, but I'm a bit spoiled by my mail-order Black's and Snow's.  

Pork Belly Char Siu is fun, but it's really just slices of belly with Chinese-infused bbq sauce. 

Pork Belly Siu Yuk is the real star. It's that fatty belly cut topped with cracklin' skin that crunches so hard it'll vibrate your brain. It's the most beautiful way to bring Asian tradition to the southern smoker, and the result is astounding. 

The meat is good, but the sides are better. 

So many signature standouts - I can't get enough of the mac n' cheese. It's a most classic all-American, gooey-firm cheese-covered shells, but there's something about that cheese mix and the first texture of the coating that makes it impossible to stop eating. 

Second favorite is the Mapo Chili, but the biggest mistake you can make is to eat it like a soup. It's more like traditional mapo, made to be mixed with a bed of savory Chicken Rice. The beef and pork mix is savory but sweet with bell peppers and bold with a peppery spice. The subtlety of the rice is easily lost amongst this menu of heavy hitters, but it's infused with chicken flavor that runs quite deep and shouldn't be overlooked.

They do their own take on Dirty Rice using Chinese sausage, and I love every bite. 

Sesame Slaw has a vinegar pop, and Granny's Potato Salad is sweet and bright with tart apples and gooey raisins. 

Spicy Cucumbers are a must to break up the bites of beef. 

The Banana Pudding is sugary and light, but I'm not a fan of the runny, sugary pastry cream. I prefer my pudding with a thicker texture.

Kaya Bread Pudding is better, IMO. The bread is dense with butter but chewy and fluffy with custard and egg. The sauce is as thick as a bisque and it is glorious. 

Overall, my feelings about Smoke Queen are mixed. Although I found everything extremely enjoyable, I don't think they hold up against the smoky big-meat traditions of Texas. But I also don't think that's a fair way to judge as Smoke Queen is as unique as the Asian diaspora that defines so much of SoCal, and in its own category, their creative take on an age-old American tradition is one that is very much worth a try.

The Original Black's Barbecue - Austin, TX

Black's Barbecue, oldest in Texas. Family-owned, run on blood and smoke. 

They don't make things like they used to, but either Black's got it right early on or they perfected their recipes over several generations. Whatever they did to this Sausage, they need to keep doing. After so many shrug-aways, THIS is the sausage I've been waiting for. The casing has a sharp snap, and it pops under a heavy tooth. It releases a meaty fragrance, giving way to moist granules with popping black pepper. The slimmer shape heats evenly and distributes far more flavor. 

The Pork Ribs are not my favorite, but I don't know who to blame. They are abit dried out, but is it too much oven, or was it too much flame? Regardless, the smoke is substantial, and the flavor is a good one, so still good overall.

The Beef Ribs are...not dry. Every bite is marbled and dripping, full-on smoke and even fuller savor. Pricier due to sheer size but well worth the splurge.

Pleasant surprises in every packing, but the Brisket was the best. Sorry Snow's, you bow to Black's. This one has a fat cap so fatty, and the meat is a marvel. 

Black's has ruined both brisket and barbecue for me. I can't imagine anything better, so every time I order, I'll probably just wish it was Black's. 

Kings BBQ - Kinston, NC

The battle of the bbq remains fiery. Carolina vs Texas, whole hog vs smoke. 

Well, if Kings BBQ is representative, my home state is getting smoked by Snow's. The Ribs are a bigger disappointment than Duke going down to UNC in the final four this year. Super tough, stuck to the bone, barely and flavor. 

It's a little better if you douse it in sauce - theirs is an iteration of NC vinegar, a liquid full of acid with a dash of barbecue sweet. Makes the pork pop and makes the fat easier to eat.  

BBQ Pork was a winner, what they're known for, and clearly so. Moist, tender juicy, good savory flavor, perfect on a sandwich stacked with slaw or as-is with a dash of vinegar. 

Hubby loved the Slaw. Finely chopped cabbage so it's more like a firm puree, a creamy salad dressing with a dash of vinegar sits better than most mayo. 

Potato Salad is nice, evenly coated, cold, and sweet.

Hush Puppies were a cheap and easy add-on, and they're pretty alright. Lighter-fried cornmeal cooks with a little crunch, a pleasant, textured side-starch.

Brunswick Stew is a special item, meaty and hearty, with veggies in the mix. Loving the lima bean, hating the overpowering pea, at peace with the sweet corn. 

Well-priced, easy shipping, but overall, my home state shames us with those very regrettable ribs. 

Park's BBQ - Los Angeles

Their quality meats and magnificent marinades have steaked their claim in K-town, and this year they catch the critical eye of Michelin. One star for the P1, IMHO, even though Michelin didn't agree. Order that Taste of Parks BBQ to sample all the meats that matter.

Plenty of Banchan to play with, little plate of pickled delights. Even the salad looks like a work of art. 

Started off with a small side of Dumplings. Savory pockets of juicy pork, tasty, but not truly necessary. 

They'll grill the meat for you if you're helpless, so sit back and relax because they'll never let it burn. Service is swift and attentive, without being overbearing. 

Paper-thin slices of Brisket come off the grill as fast as they go on. The pieces are tender, but you do have to chew. 

Side-by-side sits a Short Rib, a beautiful cut with marbled veins. This meat is not even solid - it turns to liquid in saliva. 

Ggot Sal, too, melts in your mouth the moment it hits your tongue. Juicy, beefy bliss. 

Galbi is scored for tenderness with a sweet marinade to maximize the savor. Bulgogi is thin and dripping with sweet soy, no less delicate, no less delicious. 

Break it up with cold bites of Naengmyeon, it spaces out the mouthfuls of meat. The sweet chili broth is refreshing, and the noodle texture is on point.

I've had good Korean BBQ and I've had great Korean BBQ, but nothing comes close to Park's. I don't have the words to fully capture the magic of their meat - you have to eat it to believe it.