The Salt Lick - Driftwood, TX

A lot of us picked up some pretty bad habits during the pandemic. I did too. I didn't drink, and I didn't smoke, but I started paying other people to do some serious smoking on my behalf. That's right, I got addicted to mail-order barbecue. Thanks to dry ice and overnight shipping, there was no telling how far frozen bricks of brisket and entire racks of ribs could come. It started with Snow's and most recently settled at Salt Lick. 

It all started because of Thanksgiving, as I've vowed to never brine another turkey. Salt Lick has this Spicy Smoked Turkey Breast that adds some oomph to an otherwise boring bird. There is no meat I detest more than the slab of drywall that is a turkey breast, but this one is almost interesting. It could use a little more smoke, but you can see it from the faint pink glow of the meat, and they aren't stingy about the spice. It’s a sharp and perky, somewhat peppery burn that is stimulating and almost exciting. That's high praise from me - I've never met a turkey breast I could tolerate, never mind one I could like. Now if only they’d smoke and spice some turkey legs instead, I’d be ordering those every year. 

The classics are the classics. The Brisket is a boon, though the smoke is not as strong as Black’s.

The Sausage has a snappy casing with nice notes of pepper, and a sweet finish that most would enjoy. 

The Pork Ribs are alright. Not falling off the bone but not clinging for life either. Better when basted, and I do love their mustard-strong sauce. 

Beef Rib is also okay, good stuff but not my favorite, like most of the stuff here compared to legends like Snow's and Black's. Everything seems a bit more subtle, still all the makings of a classic, more like a strong backup singer; carries the harmony but doesn't overshadow the lead. Still, it's good stuff. Not a new favorite but zero regrets all the same. 

Snow’s BBQ - Lexington, TX

I’m from North Carolina, come on and raise up, and I can tell you firsthand that the barbecue feud with Texas is fierce. Houses divide, families flail, and friendships are forsaken all in the battle between whole hog with sauce vs smoke n’ salt.

It may be sacrelig for someone like me to be praising Texas, but kick me out of Carolina if you must because Snow’s is a national treasure.

I can’t travel to Lexington anytime soon, but even covid don’t mess with Texas. Come hell or high water (or a deadly virus threatening to kill us all), Snow’s still finds a way to overnight ship their smoky magic. The shipping fee is only fifty, and the rate is flat so get all you can. It all comes vacuum-packed so it’s good for 6 months in a freezer.

We started with their Original Sausage, biting into a casing both thin and crisp. There’s an audible pop as your teeth break through, and the ground filling is savory and moist. The meaty bits are myriad and you can see the different colors and textures throughout. It’s made with a shovel-sized scoop of black pepper which adds some attitude, sassy as a southern drawl.

The Brisket is the main event - it’s what made them a legend. To quote a Netflix critic, “something magic happens inside that aluminum foil.” Cut yourself a slice and you’ll see that the smoke makes perfect oval ring, encircling all the marbled morsels of lattice-work fat.

Their brisket may be legend, the Ribs steal the show. The smoke is so thorough, that the inside is ruby-red smoked all the way through. The meat doesn't just fall off the bones, it slides right off like silk. And the meat is so flavorful it doesn’t even need a sauce. 

I’ve defended my beloved Carolina barbecue more than I care to count, but I will always bow to Snow’s. They’re declared the best in Texas, but I wonder if their ribs are the best in the world.