Last day, last restaurant. Rave review, no regrets.
Ruby-red Yellowfin Tuna tops a pillow of air in the form of a cracker-like gnocco fritto. It's quite simple, a slick slice supplemented with a little garlic from the chives and a hit of acid from the jalapeno.
A smooth glass of white wine pairs well with all the foods.
The crisp finish adds extra snap to the Sugar Snap Peas, vivacious pods painted with sesame oil, adorned by beautiful buds. It's just a plate of peas...with a flavor-profile so profound I still can't forget it.
Surf Clam Skewers have soft flesh so supple and sweet, brushed with something soy, offset by pickled strawberries and an assertive aioli more mustard than mayo cream.
The Sablefish is a beautiful dish, silky filets full of smoke and miso. Unfortunately the smoke and salinity stirs up the sensation of a sandwich so you feel like it belongs on a bagel.
Blue Crab comes to the rescue, soft-boiled egg seeping through the crevices of crustacean chunks. A divine dish. Be sure to drag the baguette through the chili brown butter on the bottom and soak up every drop.
Seafood Rice is satisfying, more subtly savory with sweet shrimp and succulent scallops, razor clams with a hint of brine. It's an elegant plate but can be overshadowed by the other heavy-hitters.
At the pinnacle is the Pavlova, a flawless meringue with summer strawberries and bits of apple.
The pavlova is perfection on a plate, but the Panna Cotta proves more interesting with the sour sakura, pickled blossoms both floral and tart, adding a summer breeze and a dash of pickle to perk up a flawless cream.
If not for the sablefish and even with the sablefish, Four Horsemen, hands-down, serves my favorite food. It's undoubtedly fine dining, but the ambiance is a buzzy bar, with surprisingly straightforward flavors that only crazy-good cooking can concoct. I got up at 4 AM to get this reservation, and I would WILL do it again next time, every time.
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