Wednesday, November 16, 2022

Khoi Hung - Garden Grove

The staff don't speak a word of English, and I don't speak a word of Vietnamese. But food is a universal language, and food-love will always find a way. 


They spoke Vietnamese, I spoke English back. We pointed, we gestured, and somehow we ordered, and they didn't miss a step. The (3) Hen Xuc Banh Trang comes out, a finely chopped sea of stir fried clams and onion, a concentrated slight-brine with a fragrant grassy finish.

The (18) Com Bo Luc Lac is the simple shaken beef, so buttery it oozes out of the meat and coats all the rice. It's simultaneously the sweetest simplicity and the largest luxury. No photos of this one because I took it home for hubs. 


The (19) Filet Mignon with garlic butter is the fancier version, a tender, sizzling cut. Grousing with garlic, a lovely, easy chew. It's unarguably the better beef, but I almost like the shaken beef better because it's more infused with flavor. 


Crispy skin encloses a flavorful flesh in the (23) Com Ga Roti. The moisture seals inside like a confit, cooking in its own silky fat. Dunk in this savory-sweet sauce for a straightforward yet spectacular comfort. 


A new adventure in this bowl of (10) Bun Rieu. Brimming with with bubbles of briny crab guts, this vermicelli soup is a stew of the sea. Tofu puffs add some texture, tomatoes add the acid, and fish cakes finish off that seafood savor.

An exquisite meal, among the top things I've eaten, and not just in Westminster/Garden Grove.

Coni'Seafood - Los Angeles

They had me at the salsa. A sharp, spicy green of tomatillo fire, covering the best fresh-fried tortilla chips I've had to date. And they give you all that for free. 


The rest of the menu will cost you, but inflation hasn't touched their value or worth, and the ceviche is absolutely worth it. The Cevisushi is a plateful of octopus, fish, and shrimp, perfectly fresh and tender as silk. A contrast to the crunchy cubes of jicama that coax the sweetness from the seafood. Dip or drench in mango habanero to make it singe and sing.


It's all good here, but the Pescado Zarandeado is the reason you come. Takes some time to make, 30 minutes to bake so place your order early. It's sold at market price, and they'll sell out pretty quick. It's a whopper of a snook, thick meat, filleted open, simply seasoned, sauced to perfection. The house sauce is savory, with notes of salt and a tiny bit of sugar, dripping with the juices. It makes a good taco with caramelized onions, which were a bit heavy on the soy sauce, IMO, and is best when supplemented with any salsa. And don't be put off by the fish head - dig deep for the sweetmeat inside those cheeks. 

Despite the changing landscape of LA, Coni stays true to her roots. They excite and they thrill, they inspire and impress. Their seafood will sizzle, their salsa will sear, and it is with this unapologetic authenticity that I am in love.

Elite Restaurant UPDATE - Monterey Park

It was so much better last time. Their menu has changed a bit, and they lost a few of the finer things, like those to-die-for turnip cakes. 


Still, the Shrimp Hargow are solid,


The Chashu Bao are too. 


Still love the Shrimp Rice Noodle, both crispy,


And plain. 


The Pea Shoots are perfection,


and the Roasted Duck is a saucy, crispy-skin delight. 


The Spicy Pork Ear is a cold dish with a mouth-watering sweet chili sauce that you can't stop eating. 

They still have stellar dim sum despite their menu changes, but their service was beyond subpar. An order of juicy dumplings came with wrappers so desiccated the surface had started to crack. Only my father dared to try one, and the filling was sour, clearly frozen too long and steamed even longer. We called the server to send it back, and he all but yelled that we would still have to pay. Money was never mentioned - all we said was the dumplings were bad. The manager walked over to investigate the commotion, stared at us blankly, and walked away while the server continued to yell.

Come to Elite if you want to eat well, but even though the dim sum tastes good, the service will leave you sour. 

Thursday, October 20, 2022

Dulan's Soul Food - Inglewood

A true taste of the south, and Dulan's goes DEEP. 


The air is heavy and stifling in the sticky southern heat. It's heavy and slow, smothering every bit of your body, oozing over every inch like this drenching gravy on a leg and thigh of Smothered Chicken. The gravy has a savory, stewy significance, but a substantial centerpiece of an entree, but it still finishes light enough for you to take bite after bite and not notice that you're full.

Sides like Mac & Cheese are just so good, full of floppy elbows and gooey cheese. The Collared Greens are bold and bitter and finish with meaty smoke. Corn & Okra is a classic stew, on the much lighter side, as is the Cabbage. Candied Yams are a sweet starch, but nothing compares to a dense dollop of Cornbread Dressing. Like stuffing but sweeter, and drowning it all in gravy is a must. Every order also comes with two cornbread muffins, and believe me, you'll eat them both.  


Other entree options are awesome, like this beautiful Baked Fish, which is seasoned to perfection. I hear the fried fish is better, but this healthier option is a close second. 


Oxtails are tender and marinated all the way through with a rice-rocking brown sauce. It's not the best I've had, and it's not their best entree, but it's quite good all the same. 

I'm in love with Dulan's, and I can't help but want their food every day. When you eat Dulan's, you love them, but you also feel like they love you back. 

Qin West Noodle - Culver City

A new location close enough for delivery, and I am just so stoked. Good Chinese, with noodle soups that get respect. 


The Liang Pi is always my staple, and it looks like it's bland but even the mild is spicy so make sure you have water handy. This one is pretty good - the spice sticks a bit more than others I've had before. 


I'm told you must have it paired with the Chinese Mo, a sandwich of pulled pork between slices of crispy mantou-type bread. The mo is hard, the pork is dry, and I wonder if people are pulled by its novelty rather than its merit.



The Guilin Soup, however, is lovely. Like a hot and sour without the texture, the mild isn’t spicy but it has a lovely flavor profile that works well with any level of heat. Soy sauce beef for the savor, peanuts for the umami, and a really great spread of pickled veggies to add some acid to give it a lift. 


Beef Chow Mein is a safe bet because that's what hubby will eat, and it's an offset for the spicy things. The noodles have an absolutely perfect chewy texture but I can taste the oil more than I’d like. 

Portions are generous so one entree each will suffice. Soups aside, most things are good for sharing, and it's really a great option if you're looking for an easy meal. 

Ryla - Hermosa Beach

I came to Ryla on a recommendation from a food friend I kinda trust, but don't worry, Ryla checks out. It's the first of its kind in Hermosa, Baran's notwithstanding. A seasonal, farmer's market-fresh menu of Asian competently-fused, it's worth a try if you're willing to spend and unwilling to drive. 


The Hokkaido Scallop Crudo makes a safe starter, a pretty plate of flowery-fresh scallops in a drizzle of fermented tomato water. 


The White Sesame Caesar Salad is actually incredible, a memorable spin on a mundane money-maker. The dressing is creamy and sweet with sesame for extra umami, and the anchovies make it pop. 


Nashville Spiced Hot Chicken Karaage has a batter that is the pinnacle of crisp and crunch, spiced up just enough to make a splash but not so much you're choking on the paste. The chicken can stand alone, but the charred scallion mayo dip is sublime.


I can never say no to Mexican Street Corn Esquites, and this one is a wow. It's street corn on crack, amplified by earthy poblano, extra-creamy crema and extra grainy-creamy cotija cheese. SO much cream but I can't complain.


Grilled New Zealand Tai Snapper has a coconut broth that is so lovely. Take a spoonful of this snapper (which could have used a touch more seasoning) on a spoon and sip the broth. There's a spicy kick to this soup, and a bit of lime adds a perfect touch. The mussels are amazing, but their role in this dish is unclear, and the pile of tasteless, steamed-soft carrots and daikon were confusing. 


Ox Tongue Curry Rice has cubes of meat that melt away. Summer squash and carrots throughout, could have been cooked more, and I wish there was a few more morsels of meat to balance. As you can clearly see, the dish is mostly squash and the curry isn't one to remember.  

I liked it overall, and I like some things a lot, but I really can't say I loved it. Lots of potential, and some dishes really pop, but I've had better, especially in LA. It's fine-dining good and Beach-Cities great, but compared to LA, it just doesn't equate. Oh 

Red Car Brewery & Restaurant - Torrance

Wow, was I a snob. I heard the beer wasn't good and the food wasn't better, and I stayed away for years. I lived down the street and still didn't go so it's not like I had an excuse.  


Someone else chose it one day so there we were, on this close-doored patio, the perfect containment area for a toddler with a death wish. And she ate two entire Chicken Tenders, which tells you how good they are. Fried chicken isn't the best food for toddlers but wait, it's organic! They make good fries as well, but I have no idea how they can call this giant portion an app. 


Feelin' fancy? There's a Baked Brie special some days. 


They're not as good at doing the fancier things. The Wild Albacore Tuna Ceviche has good tuna, but it's not a great ceviche. That said, if you're looking for fresh fish, this one will do the job. 


The El Prado Pretzel is the perfect bar food, a giant twist of breakaway parts made for dunking in little pots of mustard and melted cheese. 

A Blackened Salmon Caesar Salad is sure to sit well with anyone making healthier choices. The salmon is seared to perfection, and the salad is a salad. An extra point for the housemade dressing. 


Burgers are always a winner, with thick patties and a good balance of toppings and bun. The Motorman has bacon and cheese, and I believe there was a bleu cheese special at some point as well.

Pizzas are best for sharing. Margherita is a classic with a solid crust, but sometimes they have a pear one on special that you really shouldn't skip.

It's bar food, good bar food, but a notch below a gastropub. But there's something about the warmth and spirit of this place, and when you have kids, Red Car is a great place to gather. This isn't my go-to for food or beer, but I did underestimate their value as a way to get out of the house. Their beer and food won't win any awards, but it is overall good, and their friendly service is a guaranteed good time.