Kiln - London, UK

The train ride to London from Birmingham is pretty, but nothing is as pretty as the kitchen at Kiln! I didn't take a picture because I didn't want to creep on the chefs, but I love it. The open kitchen is small, but it's warm and intimate with the scent of burners boiling and clay pots sizzling. The earthenware gives it a traditional feel, and it's amazing. 

My new friend Marc tells me that he no longer bothers going anywhere else because he loves Kiln too much. I can't believe he would give up the variety and colorful food scene of Soho for a single restaurant...never mind. I just took a bite of my Sour Turmeric Curry of Wild Bass, and I get it. The bitter, gingery turmeric is wild, and it flavors a supple, fresh-caught bass with still-crispy skin. The sour drops some acid to make this light curry pop.

The Kanchanaburi Style Jungle Curry of John Dory sounds like a children's book. The jungle spice isn't for the kids, though. This grown-up dish makes sparks fly, with its tomato-based broth and sweet flakes of fish filet.

The Wild Ginger & Beef Neck Curry from Burma is a heavier, thicker stew, full of tender, textured beef. The gingery curry clings to the beef, lending an almost-barbaric pungency that tastes both wildly civilized and delightfully untamed. 

The Clay Pot Baked Glass Noodles is all comfort food. The noodles are al dente and good chewy fun. Strips of Tamworth pork belly have a meaty sweetness to them, and hints of brown crab meat are barely-there yet enlightening. We didn't go much mixing, but I recommend you give it a try. That side of green chili sauce sings as it singes and stings.

There needs to be an obligatory vegetable in all this, and the Stir Fried Cornish Greens & Soy looks interesting...Oh god, it's kale. WHYYYYY...dramatics aside, it's very good. The greens glow as much the photo captures, and they exude an earthy rawness tamed by heat and soy. They do know how to stir fry here, and they neutralize the unpleasantly waxy texture well. 

They made me not hate kale. That alone is praise-worthy, but there's much more to explore at Kiln. Their menu rotates regularly, and they combine quality ingredients with impressive skill. Their command of herbs and spices is unique, and their food is absolutely unforgettable.