Anthony Bourdain is the name on everyone's lips this week. His memory is fresh and haunting, and this undoubtedly amazing man left a mark on the world. I just watched an episode of Parts Unknown this morning, and the more I watched, the more I could picture him featuring, and loving, Hermosa Brewing Company.
Hermosa Beach isn't exactly a part unknown, and what they serve isn't truly street food, but I can still see him and everyone else who's ever been here, exclaiming while eating it up.
The ambiance is casually intimate. Order at the register, sit at one of the unadorned tables, and you can simply feel the camaraderie that builds as friends share a laugh, as acquaintances learn to be friends.
The food is casual too, in demeanor but not in flavor. Starting with a plate of Grilled Elote, I can see they're serious about serving only the best. The sweet corn tastes of char as it drips with slick homemade aioli and crumbles with fresh cotija cheese.
The Carnitas Fries are a finger plus fork food, a twice-cooked pork shoulder that must have braised for days. These shreds are interlaced with gristly chunks of fat, ratio almost 50/50 with the meat. The shoulder is kind of shredded, but it's so so tender and soft it could actually pass for pork belly. The cheese sauce adds another layer of richness, and there's all sorts of salsa to cool it down.
We couldn't get enough of the carnitas, so the Tacos de Carnitas are next. Same thing but with a tortilla instead of fries. I don't know where they get their salsa, but it's a nice one, especially with a glob of fresh guac.
I wash down the bar food with great gulps from my beer flight, and I can picture Bourdain exclaiming while waving a pint. And any pint will do; I'd gladly drink anything on this menu.
The assortment is varied, with an impressive range. There's a German pilsner, the cool and crisp Windmill, a breezy, clean finish that speaks of German discipline.
The Belle Plage is a French saison, a melange of fruits and spices.
La Douleur Equise is a pomegranate saison, no douleur about it. I expected something more fruity, but it finishes with a refreshing tartness.
The Stand Up IPA is darker in nature, and it has a dry bitterness that lingers.
I prefer the Hazy A.F., a peachy IPA with a smoother finish.
The Stand Up IPA is darker in nature, and it has a dry bitterness that lingers.
I prefer the Hazy A.F., a peachy IPA with a smoother finish.
I didn't expect this. I didn't expect this at all. Hermosa Brewing Company, you snuck up on me with your street corn and your ridiculously addictive carnitas! The beer is great as well so you're clearly so much more than a one-hit-wonder. Keep it up, I'll be back to sample your talents again soon!
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