Backyard BBQ Pit - Durham, NC

Backyard BBQ Pit really does look like a pit, bless its heart. A random, freestanding building channels a traditional south-of-the-border pit-stop like Waffle House, but sit down to some styrofoam-container barbecue and you won't be getting up anytime soon.

A straightforward-sounding Barbecue Plate is the way to go. Their pulled pork shoulder has enough flavor to stand alone, but NC vinegar makes it pop. You can taste the coal-pit cooking, and not a single shred is dry. Add Stewed White Potato as a side for a soupy alternative to mashed, and I have to say I'm impressed. They season it well, and it's pretty rare to be blown away by a pile of potatoes.

The Mac n' Cheese is all-American comfort, but really, I could come here just to eat Hush Puppies. These little cornbread balls are more southern than a Remington rifle, and they surprise you with how light they are, with a righteous hint of sweetness.

They do one hell of a Fried Catfish. Made to order, best batter I've ever had, right out of the fryer. Catfish isn't forgiving. It drowns in too much batter, it falls apart if you blacken it too hard and if it's not just the right amount of fresh, it tastes like Mississippi mud. This catfish tastes like it came straight from the fishing hole.

I imagine that exceptional side of Cabbage and the sweet, slushy stew of Candied Sweet Potato are derived from the same white-potato genius because both are definitely standouts. The best part is they all count as vegetables because that's what we call sides in the south. I'll be eating a lot more vegetables here.

They only have one dessert, and it's hard to imagine inhaling a piece of Chess Pie after giant cups of proper sweet tea, but it's harder to imagine missing out. The crispy crust has a moist interior, the custard is solid but pudding-soft, and it gets a little chewy in the most amazing sugary way. We usually get one to share, but this one is so good we each had our own.

This is stuff that feeds every country song and every southern-lovin' person ever lived. Food like this inspires. It's the stuff we sing about while picking banjos and strumming guitars. It's the stuff we burn off while riding horses and dancing in a line. It creates, it cultivates, and it solidifies an identity, an awesome existence; southern by the grace of god.