How can a place so loud be silent?
The dining area is small but airy. There's a lively table of no less than twelve, but even their cheery chatter doesn't intrude on the intimacy of the modest, modern motif.
Our server is as polite as he is helpful. His wine rec leads me to a remarkable red, a glass with the boldness of a full-bodied Bordeaux that finishes with the lightness of a pretty Pinot Noir.
The amuse bouche arrives promptly, right after the wine makes a full swirl and primes an eager palate. A cratered sphere of Chawanmushi is so perfect it almost escapes my notice. The egg custard is whipped so smooth it's easy to let it slide down mindlessly except for a sour splash of wake-me-up vinegar beneath. The sour against a fishy brine makes the ikura on top really pop.
The impressions are last and at the same time, fleeting. The Kanpachi Aguachili has fish so fatty and fresh it gives a gooey tingle like toro. It enfolds creamy chunks of avocado and dances for a fleeting moment with Santa Barbara uni on top. It's a fleeting moment of indulgence, inundating your senses for a hot minute before submerging them in a chilling pool of cucumber and radish.
The Tokyo Turnip is firm in flavor and texture, a denser, flavor-compact version of the American, but it finishes sweet rather than bitter. It boosts the tender steak-like abalone and frolics with a lush fava bean and dark stinging nettle. There's a hint of sour in the barely-there buttermilk that acts like a cream to this unusual mix.
This Creamed Hope Ranch Mussels & Hokkaido Scallop is the kind of luxury I'm used to. The carrot ginger dashi is thick like a pureed bisque, and a gorgeous backdrop for a flawless scallop to soak, an exceptional setting for an orange mussel to stew.
We get thick slices of toasted bread that hungrily soak up the broth. There is a menagerie of house-made Pickled Vegetables on the side, a colorful array of radishes, asparagus, fennel, and grapes, all meant to give you a break before the next creamy course comes down.
And it comes with a quiet clink, an ample blue plate to highlight a pale English Pea Raviolo. The pasta wrap is al dente, and a gentle knife releases a sea of sweet pea. It goos over the solid-turns-to-liquid belly of wagyu beef and spirals through the fluent layer of ricotta and Parmesan on top.
It was supposed to be roast duck, but half the fun of omakase is not knowing what you're going to get. This Roasted Iberico Pork makes a brilliant substitution. It's almost similar in texture and color, and the roasting has made the meat gamey and dark, like a halfway ham.
The optional supplement is Foie Gras, and we said yes before the server could finish. A mountain of liver overflowing with wet fat soaks into a piece of toast over a reduction that just doesn't matter. Each bite is more decadent than the last, and we eat until we're so swept up in the flood of liver lava that we forget where we are.
A palate cleanser of koji and honey Panna Cotta puts our feet on solid ground again. The panna cotta lingers bittersweet with the koji, and frozen shavings of raspberry lend their fruity tart. Honey clings to soften the bite, and the cream clears off all the entrees gone by.
The Matcha Creme Brulee is the final curtain. Matcha takes the place of sugar, and the notes of tea bring out the florals in the cherry blossom mascarpone. A slice of orange anchors this confection, a pleasing boost of wake-up-and-drive before you get the check.
I can describe Orsa & Winston in a single word: subtle. Nothing sticks out, nothing hits you like a wall of bricks. Everything is steady, seamless, understated with hushed elegance. The Japanese restraint overrides the Italian boast, and to truly appreciate Orsa & Winston, you must be prepared to shut up, put down your phone, and look, really look...and taste. This is not the place to go for just another fancy meal, and you should find a different place to party. But if you're aching for a deep experience where you literally get a glimpse into the very soul of your food, this is the best place to spend a quiet, soul-searching night.
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