It's a mirror image of Osteria Mozza, but it looks so different by day. Sunlight dances through the windows, making the ceilings look high, the dining space open and bright.
Day drinking is the theme, and their wine by the glass is good. They offer 250 mL pours, which gives you 1/3 of a bottle; just enough to feel something and not quite enough to have to Uber home.
Sipping on a soothing Italian red, we cut to the chase with a couple of signature pizzas. They're known for the Squash Blossoms, and what an impression they make! The fragile petals billow with a zucchini breeze. The subtlest floral notes float through a tangy tomato, bright and exhilarating with silky burrata balls.
The Black Truffle is next. An opposite but hardly an antagonist, this pie is heavy where the other is light, dense and satisfyingly rich where the other is whispery air. The cheese coalesce into a perfect chewy texture, a mozzarella, fontina, sottocenere mix that amplify the dark, earthy pungency of the scattered truffle shavings.
Two pizzas are more than enough, but we have to share this Meyer Lemon Gelato Pie. The lemon is a scintillating sour in an icy, creamy slice. The champagne vinegar sauce is a fascinating journey through all that is zesty and tart. The notes are simultaneously sour and sweet, a playful yet enticing embrace.
Just like that, lunch hour is over, brunch is done. And I can't think of a righter way to do it.
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