My only knowledge of Laguna Beach is that it’s Lauren Conrad’s
birthplace. The only thing I know about Lauren Conrad is that she was on The
Hills and that she once shaved her roommate’s cat. So thanks to TV
documentation of her entitled upbringing, her obsession with shiny things, and
her terrible taste in friends, I was actually afraid to walk around Laguna
Beach without a pedigree in hand.
I don’t have a pedigree. I am the daughter of Chinese immigrants
who clawed their way up from waiting tables to Ph.Ds. So good thing I stumbled
upon a cute little unpretentious tapas tavern with friendly service and quality
food because that’s the only reason I didn’t turn back around and leave.
The food at K’ya is very much like the lives of Laguna’s rich and
famous; it’s impossible to suck when you have all the right ingredients to make
it good. It’d be pretty hard to screw up Seared
Filet Mignon with creamy horseradish for example, and believe me, K’ya does
not.
When you combine multiple right ingredients, you get neat little
packages like Whitney Port, Heidi Montag…and Bacon Wrapped Dates. It’s hard to fail when you have a combination
of looks and daddy’s plastic, and gooey blue cheese-filled dates surrounded by
chewy bacon, and all you can really do here is congratulate the chef on the
assembly.
I swear the Hibachi Salmon
came off the grill at your nearest hibachi haven and was smothered in those dipping
sauces they give you. Something so simple and slightly sloppy sounds like
something that would permanently wrinkle a socialite’s nose. But I’m not a
socialite and I love hibachi so rock on.
I stand corrected. Even the best ingredients can go wrong. Brussels
sprouts are awesome, but K’ya’s Brussels
Sprouts Gratin was as awful as it looks. The sprouts were steamed to mush,
the gratin was soggy, and the balsamic added a terribly sour aftertaste to
something that was already terribly bitter. Plus the only pairing that clashes
more than LC and Heidi Montag status post Spencer is vinegar and gorgonzola. It
tastes like homemade ipecac and elicits a similar reflex.
We sent that side back and got the Sauteed Spinach as a substitute, no questions asked. The spinach was
sautéed just right, and the garlic added a nice bite. LC may be never redeem
herself in Heidi’s eyes, but don’t worry K’ya, I’ve already forgotten the Brussels
sprouts.
Aside from the side of sprouts, I loved all the dishes I had at
K’ya. But none had blown me away until I went wild for the Wild Hawaiian Ahi Poke. I’m a minimalist when it comes to sauce,
and it’s been impossible to find a soy-sauce-sesame-oil immersion that doesn’t
drown out the pure flavor of tuna so I usually don’t actually like poke. Just
kidding. Because this spicy soy-tempered tuna with a smooth finish of seaweed and
onion and chips for a contrasting crunch was possibly the most perfect thing in
SoCal. And it doesn’t even have botox in it.
I’ve droned a bit about the OC’s famed excess, but I’ll let the Lobster and Crab Cake speak for itself.
The embodiment of sweet simplicity, the crab and lobster flavors shone through
a highlighting hint of curry. The bed of edamame and corn succotash was both fresh
and refreshing, the very spirit of a summer at the beach.
Even without a sterling pedigree, you can still have your Flourless Chocolate Cake and eat it at
K’ya…especially if you get Vanilla Bean
Crème Brulee on the side. The cake is dense and rich, as it should be, and
the crème is sweet and smooth.
Thanks to my family’s humble beginnings and my status as a foodie
from North Carolina, I’m pretty sensitive about people judging me based on
where I came from instead of where I choose to go. So I’m ashamed to admit that
that’s exactly what I did to K’ya. So thanks K’ya, thanks for the lessons
learned: don’t judge a restaurant by its neighborhood, don’t judge a
neighborhood by its reality show, and don’t judge anything with a
chip-on-the-shoulder, especially if it’s K’ya. Because K’ya deserves an
unbiased appraisal, so come see for yourself.