I get a bit cynical about sandwiches these days. They're just a bunch of stuff, stuffed between two slices of bread, and they seem to be a lost art. Assemblers tend to do too little or too much so they feel like an afterthought or something that tries to be special when it isn't.
Not here. Only the best sandwiches come out of Wax Paper's pickup window. Some of LA's best bread blankets fresh white turkey in this Terry Gross. The focaccia is the best I've had, and it's the highlight of the sandwich, but it enhances the flavor of the ingredients, including shredded cheese and a crisp, refreshing slaw.
The Steve Julian is in the style of a banh mi without trying too hard to be. The roast pork inside is shredded and mixed with miso aioli so it finishes like a like tuna salad but more savory than I could ever imagine. That full flavor blooms under a chewy baguette, contrasted by light pickles and veg.
They make magic here, but don't expect over-the-top, hit-you-hard concoctions using exotic ingredients only found in three places on earth. The secret is in the balance, in their seamless, harmonious, not-too-many-ingredients but-each-one-essential approach. They know how to make a good sandwich here, and this spot is perfect for grabbing a filling lunch that won't make you fall asleep at your desk all afternoon.
