Bettolino Kitchen UPDATE - Redondo Beach

I was NOT a fan of Bettolino Kitchen the first time I came. It remains nowhere near my favorite Italian restaurant, but I must admit, my second experience is one of significant redemption.

The Ricotta Di Miele is a gentle start. The ricotta cheese is creamy, and local honey adds a little extra. Unfortunately, the pears are a theoretical pairing. A juicy sun-kissed fruit always meshes well with honey and cheese, but these pears didn't have much flavor. This dish also comes with a superfluous semi-cracker crostini. Nothing wrong with it, but why bother when their complimentary bread is some of the best I've had? 

The Scampi Con Polenta makes a bigger statement. The shrimp are succulent and fresh, soft against a grainy grilled polenta. The lake of parmesan fonduta is the best part; gooey, rich, and cheesy, fun for drinking...or dipping bread if you're feeling a bit more civilized.

Handmade pasta always has my admiration, and the ropy ebony of the Squid Ink Tagliolini is a lovely al dente. They have more of that awesome-sauce shrimp on top, though I wish they'd take it easy on the sauce. The pesto is an ocean, in which the pasta almost drowns. I'm always down for some basil, but cutting back to a gentle coat would give the pasta a chance to shine.

The entree is less likable. The Capesante Alla Sardegna has scallops grilled just fine, but they're not a stand-out. I could have done without the noncontributory red pepper sauce, and the couscous and asparagus are blander afterthoughts.

The Salted Caramel Semifreddo turns salted caramel mousse into the texture of a flaky shavings, like a gelato-icing love child. This one is like a slice of cake but lighter, and though it is faultless, I'd rather spend the money on something better.

Barely endearing and far from the best, but Bettolino Kitchen is growing. Their menu seems to have worked out a lot of kinks despite the awkward and disjointed, however polite, service. It's not quite smooth sailing here yet, but if they continue to get better, they may start to grow on me.

Bettolino Kitchen - Redondo Beach

A slow Sunday night, winding down a weekend. A beach breeze blows, as we breeze into Bettolino Kitchen. I've wanted to try this place since it opened, one of the first of many new kids on the fancier blocks of Redondo Beach Riviera. 

A kitchen with potential, that much is true. I usually skip the salad, but they had a Figs & Zola, and I was weak. The greens are a sharp mix, and there are slices of not-the-sweetest figs chillin' on cool pears. Gorgonzola brings its gentle pungence to a sweet smatter of caramelized walnuts. The ability to make a perfect salad is very underrated. This one has balanced proportions of all ingredients, so each bite is as colorful as the last, and the shallot vinaigrette dressing enhances rather than hides. 

The Pomegranate Apple jives just as well; arugula is delicately bitter against crunchy pomegranate, and goat cheese brightens a tart Granny Smith. Avocado adds smooth substance, and the a simple balsamic pulls it all together. Bettolino Kitchen may be the first restaurant that doesn't overdo the dressing.

By the beach, from the ocean. The Calamarata is a clever concept, al dente pasta that mimic the calamari ring. The actual calamari tastes a bit fishy, but the white wine sauce works well enough with the clammy brine.

Heavy and hearty comes next with Tagliatelle all'Antica. The pasta is perfect, but there isn't enough, and the duck is weighed down by olives and tomato. Love all the pasta, just meh about the sauce.

It's A-OK, Bettolino Kitchen. Italian comfort, great salads, good pasta. I'll keep looking for better because I know there's plenty, but Bettolino Kitchen isn't bad.