Thai Lai - Lawndale

Little shack-like mom-and-pop, cash only, sit down or call your order in for pick-up.

"I like it, anyway.", said a Vietnamese friend who grew up off Marine with her mom and pop, and this rec is right on. 

#6 Banh Beo Chen: Bright red rice cakes, big texture, bigger flavor from sweet pork and crumbly dried shrimpy-shrimp. Dunk in fish sauce, only order if you like that seafood flavor. 

#45 Bun Dac Biet: Grilled shrimp, sweet grilled pork, crispy eggrolls, and a fried pasted shrimp thing full of delicious preserved stuff over a bed of vermicelli. Best thrown into a big bowl and mixed thoroughly with some fish sauce. 

#76 Banh mi: Got this one with pork, but lots of fillings to pick from. Plenty of pickles, lots of crunchies in a soft roll of bread. Not a bad bite for $5. 

#36 Bun Bo Hue: The difficult-to-come-by broth of Hue. The broth is red like the coals of fire, boldly savory pork flavor, not too shy on spice, rich and salty. Thick with cubes of pork blood and various compressions of pork, there's also a chewy knuckle and bits of beef. Each sip of soup is rich, porky comfort. I love a good pho, but bun bo hue has so much depth. 

Thai Lai is everything I love about Lawndale. It has that old school vibe that the posh beach cities are lacking, an ethnic institution not yet unseated by commerce for the masses. Everything about it feels so genuine, just a good group of people cooking what they know. And this a group I'm always happy to support - clearly they know their stuff. 

Nikuman-Ya UPDATE - Gardena

I still love these big, fluffy bao. The regular pork is sweet and pure, and the seafood bao with its deep fried jumbo shrimp will forever be my favorite. 

Melty Cheese Buns? What’s not to like? Pork and melty cheese. I like the plain pork better but these have a thinner wrapper if that’s what you prefer. 

Add a Chicken Teriyaki Baowich to my faves. Crispy fried chicken, a fluffy steamed bun instead of bread. Yes, all the yes. 

I love the Crab Fried Rice, personally, but it won’t be the first choice for those who don’t dig the fishier flavors, though this one is more subtle. 

The Stir Fried Yakisoba Noodle is not their best. Not bad as stirfry of carbs, but not enough to make you pause. 

Chicken Wings are a newer offering. Small and not very filling but I love a good crispy wing. Nagoyan is a teriyaki with a dash of white pepper and umamix is wake-up garlic chili soy sauce. 

Mitsuwa gets all the attention but this Tokyo Central food court is formidable. The South Bay’s best bao are joined by family favorite Beard Papa and newcomer Michelin-started Ramen Tao, making up an A-list that’s impossible to argue. 

Chichen Itza - Los Angeles

The California Science Center and NHM are impressive, but it’s the before and after that matter most. You shouldn’t find your food inside those museum cafes, and unless you’re crossing the street for Chipotle or Chik-fil-a, you’ll have to spread out a little more. 

Chichen Itza’s building is long half-mile from the park, and if you’re new to the city, you CAN safely walk there but choose your route wisely and don’t expect it to be scenic.

Once you enter the building, you have to walk by the iconic Holbox to get there, and it’s neither a walk you want to take nor one I can recommend. 

But good seafood isn’t cheap, and an order of two heavily-loaded Tacos de cochinita pibil make a meal for $8.21 after tax. The pork is tender and dripping juice, and these are no measly three-bite street tacos so you get fairly full for not very much. 

Technique tip: eat your tacos like a soup dumpling. Bite the meat and suck the juice to get a mouthful of flavor and several subtler citrus notes. 

Thirsty? A soursop drink has the flavor with substantial sugar but not too much. A good way to wash it down but not that necessary, especially for $4. 

The best pibil I ever had was in Belize, and this one didn’t beat it. I did like it, though, and would gladly return once in a while. That said, I think I’d rather pay more for seafood at Holbox. 

Inn of the Seventh Ray - Topanga

We almost got married here despite it being double the price. It's a worthy price with this view, though - this is clearly where fairytales are made.

Fortunately, if an entire wedding isn't within your budget, you can still treat yourself to breakfast or lunch at a creekside table. 

Let the beautiful breeze cool your Cappuccino and marvel at the magic of the tiny stick of rock candy you swirl to sweeten to taste.

Listen to the water trickle as you peruse a menu full of familiar sandos and plates. Place your order with the server who might be the most genuinely sweet stranger I've ever met. She's down-to-earth but has a way of making you feel like you matter.

You'll feel like royalty when you dig into the Duck Bacon Omelette, a fluffy egg filled with sweet, melt-in-mouth chunks of duck belly and strips of brie and caramelized onion. Take a break with the side of purple potatoes and fresh salad with simple vinaigrette. The portions are generous, and this dish alone is almost enough for two.

Even a simple wrap has a layer of luxury; The Shrimp & Green Papaya Wrap is a lighter option. Cold papaya adds a refreshing crunch to tender jumbo prawns, bolstered by leaves of fresh mint. The flavors meld with the background of rustling branches and cheeping birds. Fries are crisp and cut, clearly right out of the fryer. 

The food here is simple, nothing you haven't seen before, but that's the best part about this place. Everything is so beautiful, yet it's so relatable to the life you know and love. I’m the kind of person who experiences physical pain at any mention of fairies in the forest, but even on my worst day, I can’t not marvel at the magic of this place, and I'll always say yes to seeing it again. 

New York Deli - Torrance

The last time I had Jewish deli, I went to Langer’s so the standards are set high. 

New York Deli did not in any way approximate those standards, and the bar set by Langer's isn't even visible from this modest little spot in Torrance, but if you're craving a good Jewish deli sandwich, you'll still be glad to have it here. 

The Hot Pastrami is a pretty good deli classic, for example. The pastrami is thinly shaved, with plenty of meat and is meaty enough, but it is a bit more on the rubbery side of soft. It's sliced paper thin to minimize the texture issue and makes for a generously thick sandwich for big, beefish bites. The Mac salad side is a fine cold side, and a pickle is a must. 

The Latkes were highly recommended by EaterLA but I wouldn't get them again. Sour cream and applesauce can't compensate for what these giant, crude potato-packs lack in seasoning.

I wouldn't go out of my way to recommend New York Deli, but I wouldn't say much against them either. I can honestly say there's no better Jewish deli in the South Bay...but there's likely no other Jewish deli in the South Bay anyway. 

Sqirl - Los Angeles

When I first moved to LA, Sqirl had hit the dining scene by storm. 

Home of the hottest stool in town, this small cafe scooped up the brunch business with this iconic rainbow Ricotta Toast. A thick brioche bolsters a pillowy salted cheese, topped with four stripes of the most famous jam there is. You can get one jam, but why choose one when you can have them all? There’s a $3.50 upcharge to discourage you, and while I loved every jam, I do think it's a bit unfair to charge that much for the labor of scooping 4 jams instead of one. 

The jams, though, were truly remarkable, and I still remember the sweet Simply Strawberry on my tongue. That said, the jams are all sweet but not too sugary and more about highlighting the taste and textures of the fruit. Boysenberry is a little more tart and just as sweet, Apricot has some nutty notes, and Gold Dush Peach has some herby sumac. Contrast that sugar with ricotta salt, and it's a combination that never gets old. 

French Toast is the same bread, just as fluffy, with a softer-than-down center, a beautiful balance. It’s fluffy like the pillow you’ll put your head on immediately after you eat because this carb coma is strong. 

Have you tried the Bacon? It’s practically a liquid. A crispy, savory strip of liquid fat.  

Beet-cured Salmon has this gooey texture with a beautiful color and finish. The salmon is so fresh and sweet and the beets add an earthiness, and it is like nothing I’ve never tasted before. 

Sqirl was shaping up to be a legend, unceremoniously unseated by a bucket of moldy jam. I for one am happy to see them recover, and I don't begrudge their success. Do brace yourself, Sqirl isn’t cheap. You will pay for quality and location if you eat there, but I'll never say it wasn't worth every penny. 

At the end of the day, it’s clear to see how Sqirl had its heyday, and this clean-California, disher-outer of quintessential LA cuisine remains representative of why we pay to stay and play in this oh-so-expensive city, and despite the blemishes to its name, Sqirl still sustains in a way that is still so vital and irrevocably relevant. 

Shake Shack - JFK Airport - Queens, NY

I had to end with something iconic, so here I am.

Double Shackburger, no tomato, juicy patties just like when they first opened in Bryant Park. 

I had my first taste when they were new to New York (I’m that old), and I still love the nostalgia. 

There are better burgers for a lot cheaper these days, especially in the neverending battle of east coast vs west coast waged by the iconic In n’ Out, but I remain a bit brand loyal all the same. 

Estela - New York, NY

My last meal in New York, and I managed to squeeze in one more Michelin star because Estela, unlike most of its fine dining counterparts, actually knows how to do a lunch. 

Same stuff, smaller menu, so you get a few of the highlights that put this place on the World 50 Best map. But don't google it - there are many snide articles about how Estela doesn't deserve to be there. 

Immediately these buttery Oysters with just the right hint of brine are elevated by a beautiful yuzu kosho mignonette. I know the quality of the oyster is what matters most, but this mignonette is worth a mention. 

Why so many haters? Have they tried the Tuna? Surely this cured-meat masterpiece alone could catapult a chef to international acclaim. Stunningly red and raw, this heart-shaped presentation is a plate after my own heart. Smear on the pil pil, which has a depth of flavor dark as the night. It enhances that beautiful gooey texture of the tuna and makes those flavors pop, and it gets all over your lips so you can see what you'd look like if you decide to go goth. 

This enterprising Endive dish looks like just a salad, but load up those boats with walnuts and this fragrant and fruity ubriaco rosso cheese, and it is transcendental. Savor every bit of crispy anchovy you encounter, and use your spoon to scoop up that oil-juice on the bottom. 

Warm, tender Lobster lays in a sauce that lingers with an herby high. Woodears are a brilliantly unexpected addition, and the texture adds magic to the lobster and grapes. 

Fried Arroz Negro: how much can you get out of crispy rice? It's beautiful, and it's so much more than I could imagine. The rice has a crunchy crust, contrasting tendrils of tender squid, and the romesco isn't much, just enough to bring out the full savory notes. 

The Wagyu Steak is their most traditional dish, two perfect cuts of a perfect cut of meat, one concealed beneath a leaf and shavings of a bolder cheese. I don't need the veg, but the beets are lovely. 

Estela. Elegant yet daring, demure but dashing, understated but oh-so-bold. The flavors are enticing, and the balance between classic and creative makes every bite mesmerizing. I would come back to NYC again JUST to have lunch at Estela. 

NYC Day 7 - Levain Bakery NOHO - New York, NY

When a friend told me these cookies were heavy, I had no idea. 

Two of each flavor made for the perfect souvenir, meant to be shared between family, friends, and colleagues. 

Wow, what a weight. In the words of my dear friend Jeff, “Are these cookies or are they muffins?” 

The box weighs the same as my entire carry-on, no joke, but those chocolate chip walnut cookies were well worth hauling across the country. The walnuts are super light and the dough is just sweet enough to satisfy. Every cookie is incredibly dense but also light enough that you can still eat one in its entirety…as a meal. Kudos for the peanut butter chips as well, best with a chocolate cookie base. There’s also one with toasted coconut and little bits of caramel which is probably my favorite, and even the oatmeal raisin isn’t a throwaway. 

Like it or love it, Levain once created a whole new level of cookie. Now they’re everywhere, even in LA, but it was a pleasure getting them where they were born. 

Halal Guys - New York, NY

Back to my old stumbling grounds, Halal Guys on 52nd and 6th after many a drunk night. A surefire way to get sober, guaranteed to have enough left over for the hangover, this used to be the best and cheapest meal in New York. 

I...I don't know what this is. Mass-produced, lukewarm bits of beef, nothing like the freshly seared slabs of lamb-based gyro meat of my memories. He didn't even bother to sear it for me, just grabbed it out of a bin. I thought it was just the chain locations that were bad, but I don't even know what to do with this. Slather on the white sauce and suck it up, I guess. It still tastes pretty good, but it's like finding Burger King replaced your favorite In n' Out.

I know there are better carts out there now, and I know that Halal Guys has gone progressively downhill, but I couldn't leave New York without a taste of nostalgia. I regret nothing, not even the heartburn, but wow, what a terrible way to end. 

Felice 64 - New York, NY

I truly don't know if you can have a bad meal in New York. Felice 64 certainly didn't refute that theory. 

The Burrata e Proscuitto is generous and so enjoyable,

and though the Cozze could be better, we didn't leave any on the plate. 

This is the split portion of Pappardelle, an impressive amount considering it's shared. The pasta is good, the sausage is nice, and the truffle sauce is sufficiently subtle.

A lovely little place for a lovely little meal. There's nothing to dislike, plenty to like. 

NYC - Day 6

The Grotto Pizzeria & Ristorante - New York, NY

I can't leave New York without a slice of pizza, and this is where Wall Street used to go. The cashier doesn't actually listen to what I'm saying and gets rude when she rings me up wrong three times in a row. And that's how I know the pizza will be good. 

The slice of Cheese just begs to be folded, a big floppy blanket of thin crust and chew cheese. 

There's a slice of Mushroom because I love them, but honestly, I'd stick to just the cheese. 

You go down the stairs in a back alley to get to this pizza place, and it's not John's or Joe's, but I'm glad I went where the locals go. 

Staten Island Ferry - New York, NY

Oh my, we are cute! 

I love that after all these years, this breathtaking view of the famous statue is free, but beware, you'll never capture more than a blur on your cell phone. 

T. Cafe - Tin Building - New York, NY

It's all so fancy, but I'm not too hungry so we stop at T. Cafe for a snack. 

Caneles are fabulous, and the Basque Cheesecake is simultaneously fluffy and light. They go well with a classic coffee or cappuccino. 

It's a day well-spent before I head up the east side for dinner, and I love the easy pace of this place. You could literally stay all day hopping from place to place, splitting a pizza here, grabbing a taco there. I didn't get to try much from this famous food hall, but I did see enough to know that you probably should. 

Boqueria - New York, NY

Every friendship has a thing, and my thing with Sam is tapas. 

Boqueria is among her favorites, and it's a fabulously affordable meal right next to Penn Station. Lots of small plates, perfect for solo diners wanting more than one thing and perfect for sharing if you're out with all your friends. 

Tabla de Quesos y Embutidos has an assortment of Spanish meats and cheese, but the real star is the pan con tomate. Thin slices of toast are covered with a cold, wet gazpacho-esque puree, just the perfect taste of summer. 

Pimientos de Padron are my favorite preparation (blistered) and served with simple sea salt. Nothing fancy, which is how they should be done. 

Croquetas de Jamon - deep fried ham and cream. What's not to like?

I'll never turn down a slice of Tortilla Espanola. In Sam's words, "tastes even better because I didn't have to make it".

Patatas Bravas are their signature standout, and I really never thought potatoes could taste so good. The crust is so crunchy, the inside so fluffy.

Maiz Rustido because why not corn and cheese? This isn't their best dish, but if it's their worst they're doing well.

Gambas al Ajillo, another simple shrimp dish, pumped full of flavor with a strong garlic swimming in olive oil and a perky pepper. 

We almost forgot to get Albondigas, a hearty meatball made more juicy by blending beef and pork. 

Dessert includes a perfect Flan, the eggy custard in a sherry caramel. 

Churros Clasicos are best when dipped in dulce de leche, but you also can't go wrong with hot chocolate or nutella.  

It's always good to see old friends, but Boqueria makes it better. A convenient location for commuters, a brief haven for those with kids. There's plenty on the menu for even the pickiest of eaters, and worst case, they do have wine and cocktails. Service is attentive, and the environment is welcoming for any and all.