Thursday, August 11, 2022

Siam Umami - Portland, OR

It’s a focused menu at Siam Umami, a menu four apps and five mains. They concentrate on what they do well, which seems to be everything.


There’s no food more beautiful than the Chor Muang, a flower-dumpling in indigo. The tapioca wrapper encases a grainy filling with savory pork and nutty notes. 


Pork Shu Mai are have a more crumbly ground filling than the Chinese iteration, and I love the more memorable texture and the spicy sass at the end. 


The La Tiang encage shreds of carrot with bits of shrimp. These magical mesh omelets don’t fall apart when you pick them up, and I love the lighter lift. 


Coconut Juice Braised Pork Belly
is their signature dish, and this braised, soupy, melty-meat wonder is indescribable. The coconut brings out the sweeter parts of the pork, and a side of green chili dip cuts the fat and brings the heat with the warmest, most pleasant burn. It’s remarkable what they’ve done here; heat that doesn’t hurt.

We ordered off Doordash, but even then know the service is impeccable. This can of coconut water comes with an apology note, and believe me, the delay was so small we didn’t even notice.  Suffice it to say the service is spectacular…almost as spectacular as the food. 

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