I have a history of restaurant-week-phobia which started when I moved from the quaint Raleigh/Durham, North Carolina to the swinging city of NYC. My resounding fear all these years was that the quality of the food would be less reflective of the restaurant when produced en masse. Translation: I fear bad cheap food. Ever since last weekend, I have been able to put my fears to rest thanks to flooding therapy in the form of a spectacular array of Taranta talent.
Taranta’s restaurant week menu was inspired by the places the staff call home. I’m not sure where they’re all from, but wherever they are, I’ll be going.
It all started with El Tamalito Salvadoreno. This pork tamale was more than half an entrée it was so dense and filling. The cornmeal was dense but simultaneously melt-in-your-mouth fluffy. There were only a few little cubes of pork and string beans inside, but the pork melts in your mouth to the same degree as the cornmeal, and the spicy green dipping sauce on the side adds a creamy kick. Roberto's Spicy Chiltepin Salad was a refreshing topper, and I swear, I’ve never tasted more flavorful red onions – marinated just enough to kill the sting and just enough to maintain the crisp lightness of the onion – a perfect companion to lighten to an otherwise rich and heavy dish.
Alex's Salada verde was an exquisite salad – the mixed greens were evenly coated with the açaí-lime vinaigrette dressing – I almost cried when I saw that the people at the next table got the dressing on the side…
If I had stopped at the appetizers, Taranta would have gotten 5 full stars…The half-star deduction was partly due to the Fusilli Pomodoro. As the token vegetarian entrée, it had clearly been added to appease the herbivores who were required to dine with their omnivorous friends. The unmistakably al dente fusilli with sharp pomodoro and fresh basil was a pasta dish beyond reproach. However, my dining companion and I simply do not believe in paying so much for a dish we could have prepared in our own kitchen. This dish had absolutely no creativity and clearly no thought had been put into it. Would it have killed you to chop up a few veggies into the sauce, chef? I normally wouldn’t deduct an entire half-star for laziness, but it was enough to annoy me considering the otherwise-innovative menu.
The fusilli may have been a disappointment, but the Venezuelan Raviolis were the exact opposite. The black bean, rice, and queso-filled raviolis are the embodiment of fusion cuisine, and the Carne Mechada sauce was the cherry on top of the perfect banana split. I wish the sweet plaintain was more than a garnish but that's the product of my personal addiction, not a true lament.
Aside from my displeasure with the pasta, my only true lament is the Tiramisu. Not sure why it's so much drier than any tiramisu I've ever had...the different layers of ladyfingers and mascarpone were bouncy and start to separate when you try to cut it with a fork. On the other hand, the Dulce de Leche Cannolo was clearly the stronger dessert. The dulce de leche cream was nothing short of fabulous and was probably good enough to make up for well...almost anything.
As a rule, when you combine two distinct races into one diverse brainchild, the result is always stunning. That being said, Taranta is now my new favorite bi-racial baby. As another rule, pay Taranta a visit next time life lands you in the North End.
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