Mom Please Ukrainian Food - Playa Vista

Oh god, I hate sour cream. My loathing of mayo was converted by Kewpie, age and whipped schmear have softened my cringe at cream cheese, and my avocado aversion was annihilated by a single bite of guac. But I think I will always hate sour cream. It is neither sour nor cream, and it is horrid.

Mom Please did not make me hate sour cream any less, but they did make me want Ukrainian more.

They make so many dumplings, soft-and-chewy-wrapper, plump little tortellini-shaped Pelmeni. These have a firm filling of a lean ground chicken sweetened by onion aromatics.

Flatter, wider Varenyky have a cordlike closure, a change-purse containing a viscous liquid of sour cherry and some mint to freshen the gooey fruit. 

Both are lovely, both are beautifully crafted, a credit to any culture. But they are incomplete without the sour cream. This loathsome emulsion adds fluid where there is only solid, smoothness to coat the bumps of cherries and chicken, blandness to soothe the salt and temper the tart. It's objectively delicious all together, if it didn't have to be sour cream. 

This Deruny with Salmon is so pretty but it will cost a pretty penny. A round of three stacked potato pancakes are lightly fried and topped with a rosebud of perfectly-cooked, super-tender salmon, warm fatty fish and carbs topped with a cooling tzatziki that lightens things up a bit. 

Medovik is a multi-crepe honey cake, layers separated by a sour cream frosting that I don't detest. The fruit gives it some sweet and tart notes, and I like that it's not overly sweet. 

I know I slammed the sour cream, but there's nothing wrong with this traditional pairing. The problem lies within my palate alone. A wise restaurateur once said "you send wine back because it's bad, not because you don't like it", and there is not a single thing I ate here that I didn't truly love. The food is lovely and it's a strong statement that I enjoyed it despite the sour cream.

Fukagawa - Gardena

Finally, Fukagawa, the best restaurant I've never tried. Surrounded by South Bay stars like Sweet Rice and Spoon House, Fukagawa's basic menu and classic concept are too easy to overlook. 

But forgoing Fukagawa for something seemingly more exciting would be a grave mistake. Subtle can be superior, and here is where it's true. They slay all the staples in a way that is deeply satisfying, with an understated perfection that is dazzling. 

Veggie-forward Ohitashi features beautifully boiled spinach, right to the split second where it softens, but before it turns to pulp. None of the sharp leafy flavor is lost, and a salty broth builds that flavor up. Fluttering bonito flakes form a layer of umami.

Dashi Maki is a soaked spiral of dashi that fills every sweet-egg pore. 

Nasu Agedashi, same soup as the tofu but darker with a bit more soy to match the deep purple of the eggplant. Each slice is breaded and fried to perfection, and it soaks up the dashi without getting soggy. 

Zaru Soba has just the right texture, that gummy al dente that culminates with boiling buckwheat. 

The soba jives with a plate of golden brown Eringi Tempura. The deep-fry coaxes every drop of juice from the fat stems so you get a tender flavor-burst of mushroom moisture in every bite. 

Saba is the protein to my soba, a meaty mackerel, simply broiled to bring out the firm, fishy flavor. 

Mochi ice cream is what it is. Skip it in favor of the freshest Warabimochi, dusted with peanut or matcha. The cubes are so chewy they're like a silky gummy bear; Albanese, not Haribo.  

It's rare that a multi-page menu isn't a hit or miss, but at Fukagawa they never seem to miss. They master every element, and they do it quietly - their food speaks soft volumes instead of being loud and proud. So next time you're in Pacific Plaza, eat whatever you like, but don't forget about Fukagawa's flawless food. 

Tasty China - Torrance

Authentic Chinese food, house-made soup dumplings, lots of wow factor in this understated powerhouse. It's not much to look at - there's only street parking and it shares a wall with the Ramada Inn, but their massive menu of marvels spans multiple regions and speaks for itself. There are northeastern staples from my childhood, spicy Szechuan spectacles, and Shanghai classics as well. 

My personal goal is work my way through the entire menu, but in case you didn't bring 50 people to dine with, prioritize the Pork XLB. The wrappers are thin, folded with precision. Savory soup inside, just a delicious dumpling overall. The shrimp filling is even better, each one holding a whole shrimp to add extra sweetness to the broth.

They make the Fried Buns as well, same delicious broth, same soft porky goodness. The bao is pretty fluffy, and the sesame crust is key. Order sparingly - a single bun each will suffice. 

Regular steamed dumplings are filled with pork and shrimp. They're big and bold, they're dense, they're delicious. Dunk in sauce and add some spice to taste. 

Beef Onion Pancakes come cold, with thin slices of soy-marinated beef. The marbling of the tendon gives that signature texture, green onion gives it a lift, and hoisin sauce delivers sweetness. It's not the best beef roll, but it's good enough for me. 

Noodles are not their best dish - the Beef Chow Fun is fabulous, with al dente flat noodles and tender chunks of beef, but this isn't the only place to get it. 

Knife-Shaved Noodles are a rare find, but these are mushy and bland and don't do justice to the dramatic art of knifing a block of dough into a boiling vat of water. 

But don't let that turn you off to any other stir-fry. The Cumin Lamb is super tender, wok-kissed with a mild chili sting and uplifting aromatics. This usually heavy meat finishes fluffy and light. 

Kung Pao Chicken is a [white] palate-pleaser, salty chicken chunks with cashews and plenty of pepper. 

There's a Tea Smoked Duck special one day, and the smoke game is strong. The meat could be a little less mushy, but the problem is minor.

As far as entrees go, the Boiled Spicy Sliced Fish is a heavy hitter, a deep bowl of pearly white fish framed by floating scarlet chilis. It's a showstopper in both appearance and size, and combined with the flavor, it's nothing short of spectacular. 

No meal is complete without a stir-fried vegetable. The Green Beans are good, 

but the Cabbage is incredible. It's salty-savory, cooked with still-crisp concoction with a bit of char, and it is the most exciting vegetable I've had in a long time. 

Save room for dessert. A platter of Fried Mochi sticks are sticky with drizzled syrup, a simple brown sugar to sweeten the lot. 

Small Sesame Balls are fried to order, and there is an audible crunch as crisp gives way to mochi-chew. The filling is a silky-sweet red bean with just the right ratio to crust. 

Order only one dessert for the table as both platters are big. All portions here are generous, and they price a bit lower than they should. So far almost everything has been better than good, with almost all dishes exceeding expectations. There's been some good Chinese food in the South Bay, but for the first time since Muodu closed, I can finally say there is great Chinese food in the South Bay again. 

Jon & Vinny's Slauson - Los Angeles

I've been watching a lot of Top Chef lately. I don't know if it's increased my knowledge, but it's definitely increased my snobbery. 

So I don't know if that's why my review of the Slauson Jon & Vinny's is so lukewarm or if it's an issue with the location because I remember liking the one at Fairfax. Or maybe it was the Doordash, but something about Slauson just didn't sync. 

Starting with their menu, I don't remember it being so massive. It's a bit of a mess as you slog through the mire  - they seem to make every pizza, every pasta, with every imaginable combination of toppings and sauce. When you try to please everyone, you often please no one.

I love bruschetta, and I love ricotta on toast, but this Ricotta & Orange Blossom Honey Bruschetta is so very one-note. Loose cheese and sweetness, sugar and cream in desperate need of an acid.

The pizzas have a pretty good crust, chewy and airy. The White Bronco is a cheese-pool of caciocavallo, mozzarella, and ricotta. A lovely lake of textures ranging from stringy to chewy to creamy-smooth. With garlic and a a good oil, what's not to like?

Sadly, there's nothing super about Sarah & Shiri's Super Shroom. It's as generic a mushroom pizza as I'll ever get. The mushrooms are fresh, but I've had even fresher from the farmer's market. 

I think this will be the last time I order agnolotti. I have honestly never found one I liked, not at any fine dining establishment, not even at Otium. This Corn Agnolotti languishes in a lake of oil, and the supposed sage parmesan is overpowered by a tidal wave of butter. I'd call it one-note but it's more like no-note. 

The Wood Grilled Broccolini has stayed on their menu all these years, and it just might be the best thing they make. The char enhances the flavor of the best green veg ever grown. Raisins add sweet and goo, lemon brings the acid, and a chili vinaigrette turns on the heat. 

Oh man, I used to love those guys, but their remaining establishment is a far cry from the icon that was Animal. Even Son of a Gun had a stronger showing for seafood, and I feel like Jon & Vinny's just isn't what it used to be. I know some quality gets lost in transportation with the distance of Doordash, but I don't think it'd lose that much. What I got was a sad representation of the dashing duo that helped shape the dining scene in LA.

Vanshow Sushi & Bar - Torrance

Shhhhh don't act too excited. They undercharge for the quality, and you better not tip them off. 

Come for lunch if you can - the Vanshow Sushi Combo A is an absolute steal, and it's quite the sampler. These are the nigiri where they add their own pairings so get sushi with style. 

The medium fatty tuna needs no adornment, but mustard adds some earth to an already-robust bluefin. Salmon is sweet and tangy with a topping of tomato powder. Shio koji seasons a smooth kanpachi, and tamago is...an egg.  

You also get half a South Bay Roll, which is actually the best roll I've had in the South Bay. Don't be intimidated by the components - the construction is elaborate because so much thought went into every element. Albacore is meaty and umami, yellowtail is sweet and smooth. Cucumber cools, avocado adds green and cream, and crispy onion brings the crunch. From the serrano, there is fire, micro cilantro carries a fragrance, and the lake of ponzu and garlic oil packs a punch. 

There's a dine-in promo for free Miso Soup as well, and they serve it with some juicy little clams still in their shells. You're not supposed to eat the shell, but the visual is quite something. 

The combo is enough for a lighter lunch, but you'll want to try other offerings so bring friends to share. 

The Japanese Sea Bream & Pink Salt Roll is an exercise in restraint. A simple soy paper wrapper separates a gooey slice from the chopped stuff and rice. A sprinkle of salt seasons but steps back to allow the fish to shine. 

Land-caviar tops the Italian Salmon Finger Lime Roll, adding citrus to salmon over albacore. It's one of the more creative rolls I've seen, though I can't quite get behind the italian dressing and balsamic.

The Vanshow Roll is a straight-up splurge, but the price is fair for the fat feast of bluefin topped with uni and tobiko. It'd almost be too much together, but a clever chef chops crunchy bits of pickled daikon for contrast which amplifies the flavors. 

It doesn't have to be fancy - the regular nigiri is just as good. Salmon, Bluefin Tuna, Japanese Kanpachi, all recommended. 

Scallops, Japanese Sea Bream. There are no bad bites.

Carpaccio is easier if you're not consuming carbs. Yellowtail Ponzu with serrano pepper is buttery with a bite. 

Splurge again for a couple slices of Seared Wagyu Beef with salt sauce if you feel inclined. Beefy, super savory, but also super unnecessary...but in a good way. 

Good sushi needs no adornments, but don't worry about adding a little wasabi here. Theirs is real so the sinus sting is sweet.

Don't be fooled by the off-supermarket location, Vanshow is quality, and it just might be the South Bay's best, especially at this price point. Their menu is all-frills, no-fuss, one of few where every you order is a winner. 

Pho 45 - La Mirada

It's all a numbers game with pho, and the latest powerball number is La Mirada's 45. 

The broth here is super-savory and deeply flavorful, much meat with some of that signature sweet. The #1 has everything, soft rare steak, tender brisket and flank, tendon and tripe for texture. 

If you're hungry get the one with all the Beef Ribs. Same solid broth and it's fun to see those big bones sticking out of your soup, but I don't think I'd get it again - one of my ribs was mostly a sac of inedible fatty tissue, and just looking at it gave me nausea. 

Eggrolls are the best! Impossibly crunchy wrapper, juicy mincemeat within. Get more than one order because four is too few to share. Dip in fish sauce and wrap in lettuce for best result. 

It's all a numbers game when it comes to pho, but once you hit 79, all others pale in comparison. But you can't always have 79, and so far, Pho 45 is solidly in second place.

Pho Hue Oi - Torrance

Caught them on a soft opening, supposedly the South Bay's best broth for pho. 

Sad they didn't have banh beo yet, but happy with my P2 filet mignon. Pushing those slices of rare steak down until red turns to pink is becoming a favorite pastime, and this broth is hot and satisfying. I can say it's better than most random strip-mall stops, but I don't know if they have a lot of serious contenders anyway as the South Bay is more of a hub for ramen. 

Overall a good broth, a good bowl of pho, but for the local award of best, I think I'd rule for Pho Hong Long.