Kitakata Ramen Ban Nai - Torrance

There's good ramen every square mile in the South Bay these days, but it seems there's no end to the noodle-soup powerhouses settling in. Kitakata is newest to an already-saturated scene, but cream rises to the top, and their unique and versatile selection will not go unnoticed.

For starters, their wavy-worm hand crumpled noodles are almost Chinese-style in softness and texture, and they pack an incredibly generous serving into every soup. Ask for your noodles cooked less if you're looking for the al dente texture. 

We snagged the last Mizore Yuzu Ramen of the season, and it was a preview of so many good things to come. The broth is savory and full-flavored without being cloying or thick, and the citrus uplifts to keep it light. 

Umakara Tan Tan Ramen is my favorite so far, a creamy pork broth with a spicy kick that's mildly ma-la at a manageable level that adds the flavor without the pain. The little cubes of toro chashu have an ideal ratio of tender meat to gooey fat.

I tried a spoonful of the Spicy Miso Ramen as well, same rich base broth with more of a garlicky hit.

Appetizers are good, not necessary but not undesired. A nice Pan Fried Gyoza has a good pork filling, 

and the Juicy Fried Chicken has plenty of crunch. 

I think Kitakata wins the most versatile award so far. Several creative concoctions with strong showings all around. Every time I come here I leave wanting to try more.

Baran's 2239 - Hermosa Beach

A tiny space with impeccable service, constantly abuzz as drinks and conversations flow. It's not a place to get drunk and rowdy but also not so suitable for intimate heart-to-hearts on a Friday night. But boy, is it a fun place to eat. 

The menu is pretty focused yet impressively varied for a place this size, and service is so attentive; one item at a time with a change of plates after every dish. They must have the fastest dishwasher in town.

I guess the cuisine is "new American", but there's inspiration from all over. Yakitori Meatballs are our opening course, sizable skewered spheres packed with delightfully tender chicken and pork. The charred onion tare is deep and dark, and the crispy chicken skin on top is just a great idea. Unfortunately, someone here has a heavy hand with the salt, more than my palate is primed to tolerate. I recognize that it's a personal preference, but I will say that for me, the more delicate flavors were buried.

My friend declares the Maple Apple Salad the best salad she's ever had, and I don't disagree. The frisee brings the texture and crunch, the radicchio adds a sharp contrast to sweet apples, which jive so perfectly with cheese and sweet pecans. The dressing is very present, and it's exactly the right amount.  

We take a risk with the Blue Crab Spaghetti, which is not their strongest dish. The crab is briny, the sauce supposedly a miso butter with a slight burn and a lot of lemon. A refreshing dish on a summer night, but the amount of lemon overpowers much of the dish. 

The Indian Egg is one of the more creative concoctions I've had to date, and that gooey soft-boiled yolk is divine as it oozes all over. The sausage is heavy on the salt, but if you eat a few cucumber slices in every bite of the lamb and egg, the yogurt tempers the heavy meat, and the cukes neutralize the salinity to make the flavors fuller. 

Salad aside, this Smoked and Fried 1/2 Chicken might be my favorite. The batter is perfectly even and absolutely exquisite, the smokiness permeates every piece, and the soy gastrique is just so good, the chef's kiss balance between salty and sweet. I wish they sold those pickled Fresno chiles by the jar. 

We couldn't resist the Coffee Toffee Pudding, and it is an adorably understated cup of comfort, a not-sweet cream, covering a warm and gooey cake beneath. Whoever sugared this dessert was not the person who salted the food, and I prefer the simplicity for sure.  

I liked it, but there were some mixed feelings overall. Plenty of potential and a couple of standouts, but the salt and the lemon soured the experience some. I do love the concepts and creativity, and I would also like to see a little more polish overall.

Hironori Craft Ramen - Los Angeles

Just a couple of guys, making the best ramen that they can. 

The devil's in the details, and they spare no attention. Everything they can reasonably make, they make, and these handmade noodles make all the difference. They're round-flat like linguine, neither thick nor thin, and have a just slightly uneven texture that brings out the al dente and makes the soups stick. 

The Tonkotsu is among the most balanced broths I’ve had. It's richly uniform and almost creamy with so much slowly simmered depth. A dollop of their fresh minced garlic makes it pop, and their spicy sauce gives it life. 

Summer calls for the Spicy Cold Dipping Noodle, a lighter but no less desirable dashi base, red with a chili oil to add an approachable level of spice. It's filling yet refreshing, and it makes you say "ahhhh" after the 80-degree walk from your car.

Appetizers seem promising, and we took a chance on these Eel Tempura Bao. The fried breading adds some crunch to a very tender fish and a soft steamed bun. Not necessary but enjoyable all the same. 

I used to have just one favorite for ramen, but now I'm not so sure. Nowadays there are noodles for every temperament and broths for every mood, and LA has only good choices for miles and miles. HiroNori is one of them, though, and I would gladly have it again.

Borjstar Shawarma Shop - Gardena

Some places are built on a budget, some are built on a generous backing. Borjstar is built on joy. 

Walk in to a warm greeting and a sampler of their meats and rice. The owner wants you to try before you buy to make sure you like it, but I think it's a ploy to sell more food. That spit-fresh meat is irresistible and he knows it. Look down and see the juicing trickling from both the chicken and the beef into the colorful rice beneath and feel the fragrance wafting up to sate your senses. 

I can't tell which meat I like best. The Beef Plate is the best thing I've eaten this month. Those thin, flame-seared slices saturate the bread above and flavor the rice below. The mendi rice itself is a standout, with a pungent spice mix that is indescribable yet unforgettable for a shawarma noob like me. 

Mom makes the Hummus, and it is to die for. The texture is smooth as silk. 

Share a Shawarma too if you can. This one is filled with juicy chicken and the most exquisite pickles.

And this one is decadent beef.  

Baklava is also made fresh, and those crispy layers are filled with nuts and soaked with honey. 

A small shop in yet another nondescript Gardena strip mall, 3 miles from my Lawndale home. It's an easy drive but an unpleasant one, down the ugliest stretch of Rosecrans. But it's a small price to pay for what's on the other end, and I'd make it every day if I could. 

Tuk Tuk Thai - Los Angeles

It's weird to not eat Japanese food on Sawtelle but this little Thai street food stop makes a strong case to skip the ramen just one. The chef here has a winning recipe, it seems; any food + high heat is a winner. 

Their interpretation of the Chive Pancake is a whimsical one and I love it. The batter is served in small rectangles, seared on all sides for a delightfully crispy crust with a starchy center that's soft and chewy. It wades in a sticky brown sauce, sweet with a little bit of tang. It's a high price for a small portion, but I'd get it again if it came with more. 

Shrimp Balls are exactly that, fried chunks in sweet chili sauce. Straightforward but what's not to like about fried balls of shrimp?

Moo Kluk Foon is a delicate little plate of fried pork jowl, an underrated and overlooked cut of incredibly tender meat. The outside has the thinnest crust with a coat of rice powder to bring out the savory notes. 

Pad Zee Ew Moo Krob tastes like a street stall staple, a latticework of delicate angel hair noodles with crispy pork belly bits. Good, but not so memorable.

Khao Soi Chicken is where it's at. The coconut curry is thick and sweet with an entire quarter of chicken on top. The meat is tender and more than enough to share, but I do wish they'd included more egg noodles to balance it out. 

Thai Tea is technically a dessert but is better for washing down this meal. They make a nice iced coffee as well. 

The Tapioca Pudding is a small portion of tapioca with cubes of soft taro and tender coconut. Nice texture, not too sweet for a lighter end to a rather filling meal. 

It's not Japanese but it's good enough to stand up on Sawtelle. Good food, good execution, great lunch deal with DineLA. Even without the deal, I dare say I'd come again.

Mother Wolf - Los Angeles

The dining room is abuzz, even on a Tuesday night, and I think Vanessa Hudgens is sitting diagonally behind us. The decor is pure luxury, like an Italian villa if it were owned by Jeff Bezos. This place wasn't started on a shoestring, and the menu full of fine ingredients is written proof. 

But I am pleasantly surprised at the sweet simplicity of these small but hearty starters. The Suppli Al Telefono are simply breaded croquettes filled with risotto in tangy tomato dotted with savory guanciale specks.

You can see and feel the shreds of juicy oxtail in the Polpette di Coda. The tomato is smoother and more subtle here.

Even their signature special, La Mortazza, is spectacular yet straightforward. A chewy pizza crust doubles over like a pita to pocket paper-thin ribbons of supple mortadella atop a creamy ricotta cheese. The pistacchio adds some crunch to the cream, and lemon agrumato adds a lifting splash of citrus.

The Filetto is what a food critic would describe as a "sleeper hit". The description doesn't sound like much, and it's "just" a cheese pizza. The result, however, is an incredibly satisfying slice. The cheese has stronger, nuttier, slightly pungent notes, and the tomatoes are the sweetest, most sun-kissed I've ever tried. 

Onto the pastas. The cream sauce of the Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe is more like a solid, a shawl around each individual strand. The black pepper is prominent and perks up a heavy base.

Rigatoni All'Amatriciana is floppy folds of textured tubes. A little tomato, a little cream, a little spice, spotted with the crispiest, most fantastically fatty hits of guanciale.

Rigatoncini All Vaccinara; littler tubes covered in shreds of oxtail ragù, a super savory sauce. 

A simple Tagliata Di Manzo makes a simple entree, the most tender and juicy ribeye cap you’ll ever have, full of flavor upon a bed of the most perfectly fried potatoes. These may be the only memorable potatoes I’ve had to date. 

Desserts are not a necessity but they are a delight. Tiramisu features a dense mascarpone and a dark dusting of Madagascar chocolate. 

Limone Gelato is a shocking standout, the sweet citrus of Meyer lemons fully realized. 

Despite the obviously upscale vibe, the Mother Wolf menu maintains a mantle of approachability. You know you're surrounded by millions of dollars of decor made to make you feel rich and fabulous, but there is something about these platters of comfort food with their simple presentation and straightforward assembly that still makes you feel you can gather and talk as you spoon up a smattering of delights. And the best part is, all that food added up to a measly $80 per person as each dish ideal for sharing. 

If I am to compare, I do think I favor flagship Felix for the intimacy and variety of pastas, but I did thoroughly enjoy Mother Wolf. I would still recommend it for those looking for a little glamour with their gastronomy.  

Southern Spice Indian Restaurant - Lawndale

Forgive the ugly photos - they were taken at an incredibly unpleasant time. The tray tables at the hospital don't provide an ideal backdrop to this monochromatic meal, and the fluorescent lighting is hardly ideal. 

They specialize in the many vegetarian dishes of south India, and I am a sucker for Sambar with Idly. These slightly sour rice cakes add their finely gritty texture to a smooth and spicy soup, superb for those who enjoy dunking.

 

Chana Masala is a chickpea comfort, this one is a thick and cohesive curry.

Egg Curry is one I've never tried, and I'm glad I did. The more pungent eggs add some oomph to the smooth tomato-based curry, just perfect over naan and rice. 

The pictures are ugly, but the food is great. Everything I ordered just happened to be the same color. Color palette aside, each dish was distinctly delicious, and the menu spans an impressive range that's worth exploring more.