Knife Pleat - Costa Mesa, CA

Lunching in the land of conspicuous consumption defines the fine dining in this cushy Costa Mesa mall. Eating amidst elegant restaurant decor surrounded by an eyesore of bright lights and beckoning displays of habits worth more than my mortgage, I'll admit I never had high hopes for Knife Pleat. 

The amuse bouche gougeres are crumbly, quasi-cheesy bits full of a grainy, earthy pea puree. A welcoming texture and I'm all for the less-is-more cleaness of the flavors that shine through the complex preparation. 

 

The prix fixe menu offered something fresh and forgettable-sounding at a price point too frugal to ignore, so out came the Wild Arugula Salad, a simple salad. The arugula is crisp and bitter, the first peaches of the summer, soft and sweet. Toasted pine nuts add a savory element, highlighting the sweeter notes of fruit. White dots of gooey cheese make it stick. 

The English Pea arrives, and we silently shovel bite after bite into our mouths while muttering "It's so good". It's so good we ordered it again for dessert, to consume before our last course came out. We got looks but apologized for nothing. There is truly no execution more flawless than the golden ratios of this dish. Sunkissed peas are fresh off the vine, snow pea chiffonade adds a layer of luxury with a bolder bean flavor in the texture of satin. Mint and a dash of acid uplift the crisp prosciutto, and a base-bed of stracciatella cheese adds some salty notes. It's a mouthful of sunshine and rain, an entire spring garden on a single plate. For this dish alone, one Michelin star is not enough. 

The prix fixe gives us a tender Chicken Thigh in a chicken jus gravy good enough to drink. The potato puree is a little pile of comfort with chips to add some crunch. The fresh peas are a recurring theme, this time buttered. Simple yet spectacular. 

This Duck Leg Confit eclipses everything I ate in France. The meat releases savory shreds, so soft you can cut them with a spoon. Good gastrique, chef's-kiss skin, well-suited sides of starch and berries. 

It always surprises me how good rhubarb can taste. Their Rhubarb Tart is arrayed in picture-perfect stripes of pink, a pretty pastry with a side of fruit-packed sorbet. 

The Louis XV is a luxury, an on-the-nose parallel to their neighbor Louis Vuitton. Gilded with gold leaf, it tastes the inspiration for the first jar of Nutella. The chocolate is chocolate without not so much sugar, the hazelnut puree is smooth as silk, and the hazelnuts form a crunchy crust to contrast the cream. 

A birthday Macaron with pistachio, 

And gold stars filled with passionfruit wrap up an exquisite meal. 

I am not surprised, not even shocked; I am astounded. I haven't had food of this quality in years, and I never expected it, not from here. Well if this is only lunch, I MUST return for dinner.  

Ayara Thai - Los Angeles

I thought there were no good Thai places south of Hollywood, but now there are two. 

Their Khao Soi is the only one that rivals Sweet Rice...and one of few Khao Soi this far south. The broth is sweet and thick, swimming with chicken legs so tender they fall apart when you pick them up.

The Laab Duck has a sweet n' sour n' spicy mix. The meat is chewy, the sauce full of flavor. 

The Muay Thai Wings have a skin of crispy perfection, just dying to be dunked in a house-made hot sauce that is to die for. 

Pad Thai is always safe, and I rather enjoyed theirs with crispy pork belly. 

Mango Sticky Rice is a lovely finish to any meal, and theirs didn't disappoint. 

Finally, another go-to Thai place that's not too far for pick-up. Adding Ayara to a short list of take-out temptations!

Hisaya Kyoto Chestnuts - Torrance

Never met a chestnut I didn't like, and the ones at Hisaya are among the best. 

Accordingly priced, $6 will get you half a dozen of these beastly beauties for you to crack open and feast on the flesh. Pay a little more to have them peeled, but where's the fun in that?

Chestnut flour donuts are donuts only in shape. Far from the fluffy texture of the fried, these are dense with a homogeneous texture throughout. Less sweet but infused with delicate flavors, the original is good, the red velvet is just red, the coconut is cute, and the matcha is even better. Black sesame and yuzu are my standouts, 

but I liked the Mont Blanc best. I am all about this creamy chestnut spaghetti that surrounds a cheesecake base.

Love this little shop, as much as every other place in this plaza. A great little spot to swing by for a not-too-sweet treat, especially after an epic meal. 

Torihei UPDATE - Torrance

Somehow I can only find one review of my favorite Torrance izakaya, and it was inexplicably lukewarm. Well I'm here 9 years later to set the record straight. Torihei is among my favorites, and I love everything I've eaten here. Maybe I went on an off night or maybe it was an off night for me, but I'll never know what made me write that review. 

For starters, the Okura is to die for, and I love that they lean into the slimy texture instead of trying to hide it. The okra keeps some crunch, its slick surface coated with sesame paste. The icy eggplant is a cool side, and the spinach is delicious. 

Fried Smelt Fish have a light cover, and they finish fishy, crunchy, and fresh. Don't get this if you don't like the smaller, fishier fish. 

I never love Chicken Skin anywhere but here. They manage to maximize the crunch, and texture is otherwise nicely chewy. It gets a little slimy at other izakayas, but Torihei keeps it tender. 

Speaking of skewers, the Heart will always be near and dear to mine, but the Special Heart is better, with its special sauce and string of roast garlic. 

Beef Tongue is still my favorite - load on the yuzu. 

Pork Belly is liquid meat, nice with a cold dollop of daikon. 

It was never my favorite, but their juicy little Meatballs made me a fan. 

Fried Shishito Peppers are a palate cleanser on the side. Perfectly perky peppers. I preferred mine blistered, but these are great, especially with breezy bonito flakes. 

Now it's called the Seared Beef with special sauce, and it remains quite special. The sauce is a just-perfect sweet soy-base, much like a ginger dressing but much more gentle, and the beef is red and tender. 

All goes well with a crunchy Robata Rice Ball. A simple triangle of grilled rice with a smear of soy sauce, the texture is the perfect contrast to the tender skewers. 

Let the record reflect that Torihei is among my top 3 izakayas, anywhere in the world. They're one of few that season their skewers, and I love every stick-y bite.  

Al Noor - Lawndale

You'd never find Al Noor if you didn't look hard enough, and if you're unwilling to accept a powerhouse in a modest house, you'll miss out on some of the best Indian/Pakistani food in the South Bay. 

Staples like the Palak Paneer are made well, big flavors of fresh spinach rise above the rest. 

Bhindhi Masala is tough to get right, and theirs is on the lighter side with mild spices and aromatic herbs. 

The Goat Biryani won't win any awards, but this was never their claim to fame.

The real clincher is their Nehari, chunks of beef shank so tender you'll swear you didn't have to chew, stewed in a spicy gravy you'll never forget. Flavors like these are only found in dishes with decades of mastery, and I haven't seen anything like it anywhere else. 

Lawndale isn't fancy, but there's a lot of good food to be found. Look beneath the surface and you'll find that Al Noor's bold flavors and better dishes would probably hold up against most fine dining. 

Mortensen's Danish Bakery UPDATE - Solvang, CA

They've cleaned up since I last saw them, and their abundance of pride and BLM stickers in the doorway caused some fondness before I even entered. 

The pastries are rich, and beware - some things are super sweet. The Danish Waffle is like a giant, crunch cookie sandwich full of very sweet cream. 

My kid got a chocolate covered cookie sandwich filled with chocolate buttercream. Don't worry, we didn't let her eat it all. 

My favorite is the Raspberry Danish because it's Danish. It's a chewy pastry with a great texture, and it's significantly more balanced in sweetness. 

A much better experience this time around, a better bakery overall, I think. I don't know enough about pastry to truly compare it with the rest, but I would definitely make more "educational" visits here. 

Solvang Brewing Company - Solvang, CA

You're not here for the food or beer, you're here to sit and chill. 

Crunching on some chips in the Street Corn Bowl sets the scene to sip some beer or watch the latest game. I didn't love this concoction - the proportions feel off, but don't worry, the burgers are better. 

The Taproom Bacon Burger is exactly the kind of burger you'd expect in a brewery, a sizable patty topped with bacon and cheese. 

The Chicken Strips are a generous portion with a nice side of fries, perfect for sharing with or among your kids. 

The brews didn't quite rock my world, but it's nice to sip a bit of booze. The hazy and the lager were undoubtedly enjoyed. 

A nice outdoor area, great for gregarious groups or those with energetic small ones. There's even an area with games to keep kids amused. Good place to go, nice place to be.