Wow is one of my favorite words in the English language. It’s one
of those words that clearly conveys what it means. There is the exclamatory
“WOW”, where even the letters look excited and explosive, with the wide-eyed
W’s and the O like an open mouth of shock. Then there is the sad “oh wow”, when
something tragic or gruesome occurs, and the little o’s look sympathetic, and
the w’s become furrowed brows, and the word is accompanied by a shake of the
head. Then there is the ever-sarcastic “wowwww” when you hear or read one of my
really badly nerdy jokes, where the o’s are rolled…and so are the eyes.
Sushi Yasuda was the first kind, the kind in all caps. The kind
that widens your eyes and drops your jaw except you quickly close your mouth
when you realize it’s agape to avoid spilling even a drop of that spectacular
sushi . Just don’t open your mouth when you’re drinking their amazing Green Tea.
I used to see appetizers as a teaser to the meal, but I’ve been to
entirely too many places where the appetizers have all the WOW, leaving none
for the entrees. The Kane Miso
really did have all the WOW. Crab roe mixed with a grainy touch of miso makes
for a mouth-melting, eye-popping wow.
The Kane Miso was undoubtedly tops, but the lowercase wow provided
by the Hone was a salty, welcome
contrast. And by lowercase, I don’t mean sad, I mean quiet and subtle. The
crunchy crisps of flash-fried eel have none of the in-your-face richness of
crab butter, but the sea salt and soft savor of the eel emerges seconds after
swallowing. And it holds all the addictiveness of Japanese Pringles – once you
pop, you can’t stop.

From left to right, Toro,
Shimaji (?), Red Snapper, Sockeye Salmon,
New Zealand King Salmon, Sepia, Mirugai, and California Uni.
It is impossible to describe each piece separately, and if I were to try, I can
clearly picture the head-shaking wows from each reader as one by one, they stop
reading. So notable highlights only. The toro is rich and savory, the sockeye
salmon is unbelievably sweet and tasty, and the NZ king salmon melts on the
tongue. The mirugai is one of my all-time faves, and it’s rare that I catch the
chewy-brine of giant clam in season. The uni was brinier than what I had in
China, but sea urchin roe is always amazing.

The next two courses are the heavier enders. The value of a fresh
Ebi is always grossly underrated, but this one was nothing special. The Sawani Eel is out of this world, and it
has rendered me incapable of enjoying eel ever since. Its sweet flesh required
none of the corruption of eel sauce, and it was unthinkable that so much flavor
came from something so pure and white.
Our omekase was over, but we still hungered for more. Let’s just
say the Ocean Trout and another
melt-in-your-mouth salmon were the
smoothest finish to a perfect meal.
Our server was as sweet as the sushi. Soft-spoken but bubbly and
ever-so-polite, she made sure the dirty dishes never dwelled. Just be prepared
to abide by the rules in Yasuda-san’s house. Eat your nigiri with your fingertips
and don’t add soy or wasabi - it's too perfect to drown in sinus-clearing green
stuff or rivers of black. Especially when supping at the sushi bar, be prepared
to shut up, snag your sushi with clean fingers, and shove the soy sauce aside.
If you'd rather indulge with your own free will, you will find Sushisamba
becomes a superior substitute.
At Sushi Yasuda, even
the biggest WOW is unable to capture the explosion in your mouth when Yasuda's
sweet sushi hits. Most people wouldn't describe sushi as sweet, but there is no
better word to capture the umami uproar, and there is no better description for
the feeling that comes after.