Darkroom - Santa Ana, CA

What a place. What a chef, what a vision. 

The execution is all flawless, a cool room lit by minimalist lighting, music from a turntable where they only play real vinyl from the chef's complete collection. So cool, too cool, a genuine manifestation of a personality, a peek into a soul. 

The menu puts it all out there, and it's a most fascinating read. Each list of ingredients sounds exciting, and despite the detailed descriptions, I can’t really guess what the end result will be. 

Food is in the form of share-plates, and service is quite sensitive, as they pace your pickings to keep them from clashing. 

We start with the Tuna Tartare, which is salted and sweetened and tanged by tomato dashi. A surround-sound chili oil punctuates those flavors, working in tandem with a playfully punchy pickled puntarelle. 

Have you ever seen a Kanpachi more comely? Coffee oil and passionfruit come together for a most fragrant flavor, with notes of citrus and earth.

Proteins preceded the Sugar Snap Peas, wok char clinging to mala, balanced by a creamy peanut miso. It's a sauce so spectacular they could sell it in a jar and I would drink it. 

Take more green bites between small Scotch Olives, these little flavor-bombs but umami anchovy and spicy lamb merguez, made for scooping up some thick, sour yogurt. 

Maitake Mushrooms and Conehead Cabbage are meh in the middle, the seasoning too heavy on both. 

Something about the cabbage doesn't hit - the sauce feels far too heavy, the pecorino a bit too weighty. 

The chimichurri felt too loud for the more delicate mushrooms, and despite loving the buckwheat crunch, the mushroom just felt lost. 

Roe, roe, roe your boat, the Lasagne comes bejeweled, as the dots of glimmer like the finest bijoux. Leeks are sweet, and the broccolini adds the earth. The balance is beautiful, and the roe with its rich flavors filling up the cream sauce makes this the single most memorable thing I've eaten in years. The chef gives me a casual shrug and tells me it's just lasagna with a Scandinavian spin, but I can't imagine what fever dream led to something so sophisticated and so original. 

Even the Caesar salad has its own unique spin, sharply bitter bunches of little gems drizzled with nuts and cheese and nutty cheese. 

Note: I got this one to go for the hubby - the plating is in a take-home box. 

Our last main dish is crispy Beelers Pork Belly, cooked to perfection, with melt-in-your-mouth fat and a "green curry stuff" that supplants all the other stuff. It's not the most creative, just a meat and sauce but it is a most delightful nosh. 

Desert is almost a digestif, so light is the strawberry goo. It surrounds the savory Semifreddo like a bubbly-wrap of sweet and tart.

Before I came to Darkroom, I was losing faith in fine dining. After yet another lackluster experience at a lauded LA hotspot, I was starting to lose faith in food. I so often found menus lacking in creativity, palatability, or both, and it seemed that the good stuff was not so creative and those who were creative forgot how to make it taste good.

But this single visit to Darkroom changed my mind. They treat every person like they matter and deliver a passionate, masterful menu that made me excited to eat for the first time in months. It seems this one dark place pulled me out of another, and I'm already making plans to return for another round. 

Holbox UPDATE - Los Angeles

A cashier and a counter, food stalls surrounding, communal dining area all around. Holbox is simply a stall in the grand scheme of Mercado a la Paloma, a powerhouse seafood service so good even Michelin had to give a star. 

It's a rather long menu for a stall, but they don't have any throwaways. It's a list of overwhelmingly delicious descriptions so just start with a ceviche if you need time to think. The Mixto has such succulent shrimp, meaty octopus, and a sole so fresh it melts in your mouth. The lime is tart but not burn-your-mouth sour, playing with the sweeter flavors of the shrimp and sole and adding a bit more pop to the pulpo. 

Savor between sips of Sparkling Lemonade, a substantial 5-dollar delight that's refreshing and smooth. It's easy to drink, maybe a bit to easy as the bathroom is a bit of walk toward the back.

More ceviche with a buttery sea-meat Kanpachi & Uni Tostada, as their house made hot sauce has a punch. 

Uni is great, but Smoked Kanpachi is exceptional. You can feel the cleanest smoke sate the senses, as shrimp and scallops add sweet to the savor and smoke. 

Barely-briny bay-scallop bullets bathe in an emerald emulsion. Loud lime and perky pepper accent the Aguachile. 

From raw to cooked, the Smoked Kanpachi Taco is tantalizing on the tongue. The smoke spirals all around the buttery, almost-gooey fish. 

The Scallop Taco has milder flavors, with caramelized onions and a creamy sauce, giving the seared scallop some space to speak for itself. 

Have you ever seen a Pulpo so pretty? A spectacular mass most tentacular atop a nutty pepper sauce, this may just be the best octopus I've ever eaten. 

$150 for food worth three times more, two gluttons stuffed to the gills with a couple of boxes for some very tasty bits. Not only is Holbox the best seafood in town, it is by far the cheapest. Considering all I have to do is order at the counter for no-fuss, unpretentious plates of the freshest seafood in town, I see no reason to go anywhere else ever again. 

Artelice Patisserie - Los Angeles

I cannot imagine the skill that goes into each mini-masterpiece behind one of LA's most beautiful pastry cases, and I fear to ask how much time goes into creating these works of art.

In what looks to be a scale model of the bush-ripened tart little tam, a silky chocolate mousse cohabits with a very soft gel-jam that sits upon an airy sponge in the raspberry-within-a-raspberry Framboiselle.

The elaborate Saint Honore houses puff pastries with the most perfect vanilla cream. The crunchy crust is a beautiful honeyed luxury, and every bite is a cotton-cloud dream. 

Even the box is most beautiful, watercolor flowers across a gray-blue sky. 

You can't leave without a bag of Macarons, and though we chose the colors of a muted eyeshadow palette, the flavors are hardly subdued. Yuzu is a hit of citrus, the mango passion fruit, a tang. Sea salt caramel is sweet, pistachio has nutty notes, hazelnut is a marriage between the two. Matcha is earthy, earl grey is a robust tea. 

Very fancy, the utmost in upscale, a lasting example of the mastery of classic technique and precision in a world that runs on machine-rolled muffins and grocery-store croissants. Beautiful and impressively delicious, every item here is meant to be slowly savored, though you'll be very quick to run back for just a few macarons more. 

Ban Ban Burger - Los Angeles

In a world full of boring old burgers, Ban Ban Burger does a bang up job. 

Smash burgers have come and gone, but the Grapow Smash is here to stay. Not only are the beefy bits juicy and savory beneath their grill-seared crust, the grapow mix sears its own path with a sweet and feisty chili finish. Pickles add some perk as cheese and aioli add some cream, and egg yolk runs to the rescue to soften the burn.

The Wagyu Laab Smash is a less impactful, subtly sweet and significantly softer for those who don't want to burn. The herbal notes are quiet, sweetness dominating pickles and cheese. 

Something about the Satay Katsu Sando hits. The panko cutlet is perfection, but it's really how that peanut sauce sinks into the milky bread that adds an extra layer of umami. 

Not enough? Try a side of Papaya Fries. Gooey sweet-sticks with varying levels of ripeness make a most satisfying crunch, best when dipped in that super-sweet side sauce. 

With multiple unique spices and seasoning, Ban Ban Burger does what very few can; this little burger joint manages to be memorable. Despite having had many a delicious burger, these are the only ones I remember. And if anyone asks where I want to go for my next burger, only Ban Ban comes to mind. 

Sunday Gravy - Inglewood

Any way you slice it, Sunday Gravy is sweet. A classy-casual, semi-diner serving Italian with some southern, even the name evokes something soulful to set the stage.  

Staples like Shrimp & Grits are substantial, and this one is all sorts of special. Looking like spilled tomato sauce over grits, this dish is the ultimate ugly-delicious. The shrimp are succulent, and the Calabrian chili collaboration adds a bit of sweetness, a dash of spice, and a whole lot of depth. 

Use generous slices of the city's best Garlic Bread to sop up the extra grits for a little extra wow. 

Beet & Citrus Salad is bland, but it serves me right for ordering it here. Pistachio adds an earthiness that falls flat without any acid. Labne has some tanginess but not enough. Even with oranges inside, the citrus is seriously lacking. There just needs to be a sharp squeeze of lemon on top to make it all more tolerable. 

The Ragu, however, is alright, a softer sauce with a tinge of tang. It's exact what you'd expect from a slow-cooked meat sauce, rich stuff that gets stuck in the little penne pasta grooves. 

Most memorable is their Crab Mafalda, crinkle-ribbon pasta so thick you'll need to use the tongs. The crab carries a breeze sting of the sea in an ample amount to add texture and adorn. 

A lovely meal. All rich and filling, heavy in a way that is heavenly. One of several interesting finds from Inglewood, this is one I wouldn't skip. 

Harriet's Cheesecakes Unlimited - Inglewood

For the South Bay's best cheesecake, ring this bell. 

The loveliest lady will step out shortly and take your order. One board list the available whole cheesecakes, and the other has quite the selection of slices. 

Each cheesecake is creamy but also light with a beautiful balance between sugar and subtle cheese. The cheese is very present lest you forget what you're eating but is restrained so every bite is pleasant.  

Banana Pudding tastes like the real thing, the ooey-gooey pudding and wafers come in layers, contrasted by coin-sized banana slices, fresh and firm. 

Their signature Sweet Potato is a southern dream, a fluffy core of the sweet and nutty starch. 

Apple N Spice is perhaps the most unique, viscous apples like a pie, spiced like a Christmas cider.

I would have eaten more cheesecake if I knew cheesecake could be this good. Harriet's makes an exceptional slice, simultaneously subtle and spectacular. 

Raffaello Ristorante - San Pedro

Need a place in San Pedro to feed out-of-town guests at 3 PM on a Sunday. 

Challenge. Accepted. 

Raffaello is up to the task, and judging by several other large tables of multigenerational parties, we're not the only ones in the know about this family-friendly, open-all-weekend, picky-eaters-welcome house of Italian hospitality. 

 

The Grilled Octopus is quite tender, simply seasoned with some citrus. 

The pasta is quantity over quality but the quality is still good. They even throw in a simple salad. 

And a plate of roasted peppers to start. 

Spaghetti and meatballs is quite nice and comes with some seriously savory tennis balls.

I do love this restaurant, but if I am to be honest, I didn't love the Manicotti alla Bolognese. It’s a tub of ricotta but it’s encased in a tube of pasta instead of a plastic tub. There is such a thing as too much cheese, and when the pasta to cheese ratio is 1:500, it’s too much of a good thing. 

Those who had entrees enjoyed them - I tried a bite of the swordfish special and found the unforgiving fish to be skillfully prepared. I may have enjoyed an entree more, but having so many dishes that kids can share with their parents is truly a blessing, and for that I love them. When in the area, would absolutely come here again with family. 

Mensho Tokyo - Culver City

As a small ramen restaurant in downtown Culver, Mensho faces stiff competition in the form of fried chicken, food halls, artisan ice cream, and so much more. 

Mensho makes its stand with an exciting list of noodle soups on a mouthwatering menu that has me planning for a return trip as soon as I order. The Signature is an excellent choice, a dish so delicious I feel I must try all the others as well. The broth is fatty and creamy, so rich it's entirely opaque, yet the chicken base makes it substantial without so much substance. Deeply savory and satisfying, it scratches the umami itch without making you feel so full you can't finish your bowl. The noodles are house-made, another signature with a mochi texture that gives them a gelatinous chew. The texture contrasts with a melty slice of A5 wagyu chashu, a piece of fermented pork chashu, and a bit of duck chashu which I can only describe as duck bacon. The mushroom menma is something I'd buy by the jar, and I didn't think that beautiful soft-boiled egg could be any better but then they added a breath of smoke. 

Enoki Chips are an app, but they actually make an exciting accompaniment to any ramen. Little mushroom straws crunch all the way through and are ideal for adding as a ramen topping or dipping in leftover broth. 

There are far too many choices in downtown Culver City, but Mensho is one worth trying. The ingredients mark them as higher-end, rather than your corner bar-stool slurp, and there is a sophistication to the flavors in a way that makes them memorable. The selection on the street is quite overwhelming, so next time you're trying to decide, maybe make a move toward Mensho. 

Hu Tieu de Nhat - Garden Grove, CA

Noodles. Different noodles. 

Textures mix in the #2 - Hu Tieu Mi Nam Vang as softer rice and chewier egg noodles entangle. Pork bits alternate between grainy, fatty, and crunch, topped off with tender shrimp. The dry version comes with a savory broth holding quail eggs and fish cake for an extra umami hit. Sip and dip and add bitter greens for extra oomph.

The first two are their signature, but it's the #5 - Dai Mi Nam Vang you'll remember. They look the same but taste quite different as the gelatinous clear noodles add another dimension, and this dish has a sweet finish that brings out more savory pork and shrimp notes. They're simple but far from simplistic, an entire adventure in flavor-savor all on their own. 

A surprising addition to last year's 101 best list given the modest nature of the place, one with which I 100% agree. A fantastic find, and I'm glad it fell off the list so I can enjoy it without a crowd. 

Betty Market & Restaurant - Inglewood

The "market" is just a bookshelf, stocked with spaghetti and spices, bag of ingredients most interesting. If I were a better cook...okay a competent cook at least, I'd want to buy and try. 

Instead, we let them cook for us, this lovely, kind, welcoming family, and it is the kind of food a friend would serve you if they wanted to treat you, to warm your soul after a difficult week. 

Kitfo is barely-cooked beef, though we opt for medium rare. The butter and the herbs bring out the gamey, beef savor, with dots of cottage cheese adding those rich, milky notes. 

 

Jalapenos give Nech Ribeye Tibs some spice. Onion is aromatic and garlic gets some attitude. The bits of beef are tender, and the sauce soaks deep into the injera. 

Great food at a super-casual quick-lunch cafe. It's a hole in the wall for sure, and it happens to be next door to the South Bay's best cheesecake. Come one and come all for a most satisfying sequence of food and sweets.

Starbread Bakery - Carson

Home of the Senorita Bread, get your fluffy little butter-rolls by fives and tens, fresh from the oven and ready to accompany any cup of coffee or tea. Theselittle guys are hollow on the inside, filled with crumbly butter-sugar air. 

It'll be gone in a day - it's that easy to eat, but it becomes senora bread if you leave it out overnight. It ages well after a quick zap in the microwave as the melty stuff has had time to soak into the center, and the bread develops a bit more texture. 

The malasadas are lovely, both guava and ube are aptly flavored with barely-sweet fillings to counter the sugar crust. The apple bitso is also fried and fun, but they're hard to appreciate when they've gotten cold in the case, especially compared to the freshly-baked main event. 

A fun bakery, great stuff overall. Walk away with a box of senorita bread but order more than you think you'll need - you'll be surprised by just how many you'll eat.