Yangban - Los Angeles

There was a lot of hype about Yangban, and every dish lives up. 

Photogenic starters include golden wedges of Hokkaido Scallop Toast, which taste as good as they look. The tenderest little scallops with a little tomato tang top an impossibly crusty toast, drizzled with creamy ribbons of golden sauce. 

Less pretty are the brown-ball Acorn Beignets, but they're no less beautiful in taste. To make a fried ball of acorn flower so memorable is no small feat, and these nutty delights do deliver. Caramelized onion and prosciutto pair perfectly, adding savory-sweet with a base of gooey gruyere. 

The Green Tea Leaf Salad has colorful sections of lettuce, cabbage, buchu tea, tomato, and edamame, to name a few. Mixes well and finishes light with this refreshing nokcha-lemon vinaigrette. 

Salad makes a perfect pairing with the heavier Yangban Wings. A thick coat of double-fried breading is sweet, with the most exquisite crunch, accompanied by a fiery but approachable kimchi hot sauce to dip. 

Did you even have Korean food if you didn't have the Banchan? This array includes the familiar with a twist and some fantastic creations as well. Kimchi comes with a gentle kick of habanero, cucumber is grilled and has a hit of lemon. Steamed Broccoli looks so straightforward, but between the uplift of yuzu and the chicken skin furikake, these florets' flavors will floor you. Honey Glazed Carrots are gooey-sweet with whipped yogurt and sugary dates. The Brokaw Avocado and Shinko Pear is a combination of softness and crunch, sweetness and earth. 

I love a good short rib, but I've only had one or two that were truly memorable. The Grilled King's Cut Short Rib is number three. The impossibly tender texture, may be the best of this cut I've had to date, and even the potato puree is impressive. Gorgeous grilled mushrooms add their own umami.

The Stone Pot Rice may look less dazzling, but the flavors are formidable. A comfort-carb of koshihikari rice comes with a crispy crust that only a stone pot can give. Bits of pork belly and all kinds of kimchi make a flavorful bowl, a perfect end to an a powerful meal. 

I think Korean food is having a fine-dining heyday, and I love it. Yangban delivers this colorful cuisine with so much depth and creativity, but what impresses me most is their flawless execution of some extremely difficult concepts. Food at this level is so not to be taken for granted, and an incredible meal like this will stick with me for a good long while.