The other half of the Bestia group, I present Bavel, What Bestia is for pasta, here's the group's answer to middle eastern. We approach Bavel at an interesting time, the night after LA's most expensive meal at Vespertine.
We go directly from a restaurant Michelin adored to the one he wouldn't give the time of day, and I’m starting to think he's an idiot. For literally less than 20% the cost, Bavel was equal in some ways and close enough in every other. My review is a little biased after being gutted by the prices, but I do think my delight is deserved.
The menu is varied, but sometimes it appears understated, specially with the starters. They don't appears to be quite as much as they are. The Duck 'Nduja Hummus, for example, is simply a smooth bed of chickpeas savored up by spiced grains of finely ground duck. It's served with these fluffy pitas, the freshest I've ever had. You can literally see the dough deflate as they arrive, hot and airy on the plate.
The Baba Ghanoush is smoky and creamy, topped with a deep-oven mix of chunky mushroom and eggplant. There's a golden-brown sesame-studded fried pita on the side, and you'll have to pay for extra because one isn't enough and you may not even want to stop at ten.
Cool down with a dish of juicy Marinated Olives. The marinade is light so they're almost fruity, and you can't go wrong with some feta.
The Cucumber & Asian Pear is a bit of a palate cleanser, and I thought it'd be more like a salad filler, but the blanket of whipped feta is like a thick, cheesy yogurt, and a drizzle of harissa and dash of black garlic elevates the flavors and keeps the dish sharp.
The Roasted Kanpachi Collar is a surprise, though not of an unpleasant nature. It seems more Asian-inspired than anything I would expect from the Mediterranea or middle east. The fish is fresh and cooked to a tender perfection, and the green curry beneath is thick and just the right amount of coconut and sweet. They do suggest you slather the fish with it, and to make that possible, I wish they'd include a little more.
Lamb Flatbread. They really are the masters of bread. That soft, chewy base/dipper is the real show-stealer here, though the spicy sausage is nothing to sneeze at. This flatbread is a feisty one, and each bite will nip you back.
Comfort food comes with melt-in-your-mouth chunks of Braised Wagyu Beef Cheek Tagine. There's dried fruit to sweeten the pot, and the sauce is a gravy over a light side of cous cous with cashews.
Aged Half Duck is a meaty main, a skewering sword of breast with crispy skin and a fatty leg of confit. I’m not sure how you're suppose to family style the side of sipping broth, but this dish is all about the meat anyway.
If I could do dinner over, I’d just get giant platters of pita with a couple bowls of hummus and baba ganoush. Not because everything else wasn’t awesome but because just these simple items were so amazing they could have stood alone. You can build a bakery on that pita bread alone.
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