Duke’s Lihue, yet another Marriott staple. From one side of a gargantuan complex to a table full of family that takes several sprints and a couple of wrong turns to find.
The menu is easy to navigate, though, a full spread favorites from the land and the sea. Their menu is entirely different from the Malibu location, and I’m pleased to see specials based on sustainability and local availability.
The Tristan Lobster Tail, for example, is branded the world’s only sustainable lobster, and it’s branded itself into my tastebuds. A step below Maine in suppleness and a step above spiny in succulence, they broil it very well. Dip it in some herbed butter and bite into sustainable bliss.
They also have a section devoted to fresh fish, with multiple catches of the day. The Seven Spice Ahi is a constant, and this one needs to stay. The medium rare sear really pops with a salty togarashi season.
The apps are almost as satisfying as the mains. There’s a sweet Maui Onion Soup that tastes like that the bag of chips they give you on the plane.
The Crab and Mac Nut Wontons are a meal in each wrapper, a purse of crab, carb, and heavy cream.
The Crab Cakes are also a little creamy in the middle, a solid conglomerate of small chunks of meaty crab.
I’m starting to think Duke’s is like the Hard Rock Cafe of the Pacific, and I think I’m starting to like the idea of collecting visits to the land of the great blue surfboard under the glow of the setting sun instead of a giant guitar. I don’t know if I’d go out of my way to visit Duke’s at any point, but I’m happy to be there when catering to bigger parties or picky palates.
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