Modo Hawaii - Torrance

Mochi + Donuts = genius!

Chewy little dough-balls in a chain, three different flavors a day. You'll never go wrong with the classic Sugar, warm and fresh, and I love the extra dusting of cinnamon on the churro. Blueberry is sweet and fruity, and Pandan is light glaze. Depending on the day, there's also a citrusy passionfruit that proves to be a favorite, and the matcha and black sesame will draw a crowd. 

What idiot made Modo a pop-up? This little donut stall has serious staying power, and nothing will come close when it's gone. Not all good things should come to an end, and I hope Modo decides to last. 

Kali Restaurant - Los Angeles

It's hard to describe what makes Kali so special, probably because there is nothing not special about this small, sweet, and simply lovely space. 

The decor is pretty, just pretty. Clean tables of light wood contrasts a dark stone floor. The ambiance is one of friendly calm on a weekday night, and the tasting menu has a balanced execution that is both skillful and sleek.

The amuse is popping pearls of Caviar on a fluffy, mouth-melting blini. A dollop of creme fraiche draws out the seafood savor, and the silky texture is just perfect.

There's an Uni and Oyster power couple that I missed thanks to some coupling I did earlier this year. I'm told that the uni is fresh and sweet, and the oyster has a bubble-burst of citrus sauce, as startling as it is brilliant. 

The chef accommodates my dietary restrictions in a way I could never expect, in a more considerate manner than I would ever dare to ask for. My seafood comes fully cooked, a gorgeous Abalone, poached so tender it could be sashimi, with a rich and salty mushroom XO sauce to make the sweetness pop. 

A gorgeous fish. I believe it was Chilled Sea Bass, buttery refreshment in a simple olive oil and an accent of citrus. 

There's a Black Barley Risotto that sits in a satisfying sphere. A pupil of black garlic seduces with its murk, and the surrounding field of wheatgrass oil brings it back to the light.

The Dry Aged Ribeye is enough to make me regret the tasting menu altogether. It's all so amazing, but I could have just gotten a few more slices of ribeye and been satisfied with my life. All that marbled fat is so melty it's halfway to wagyu.

I could eat this meal forever, but the Meringue Gelato marks the end. The gelato is cool and creamy, and the candied yolk shavings add a salty and savory contrast to complete the dish. 

We even get some Truffles for the road. 

I'm not sure what genre of food this is, but delicious is all I need to know. Every bite at Kali is exquisite, and I can only hope to make it back for more. 

Sichuan Impression - Los Angeles

Sichuan food is hard to find in Los Angeles, and sichuan food that makes an impression is harder still. 

Enter Sichuan Impression, a San Gabriel Valley rock star spreading its reach to the depths of Westwood, LA. Their menu is not modest, but half their dishes are called "impressive" because that's just what they are. Starting with a signature of the south, the Impressive Bean Jelly is appetizing appetizer, a textbook cold gelatin noodle. It's exactly what that this dish should be, and the chili oil with crushed peanuts compounds taste and texture for a slick finish you won't forget.

My favorite dish here is the Wok-Fried Kidney with Rattan Pepper. Ask for it mild and revel in the burn. The kidney has a tender chew to it, and the seasoning sinks between scored crevices to literally fill it with flavor and amplify the savor.  

Do eat your vegetables between bites of the hot stuff. The Taiwanese Lettuce, or a-choy is a must, and I'm sure the mustard greens are just as good. They're stir-fried to perfection, and they're a much-needed break from the burning meats. 

One of few not spicy plates the Tea Smoked Pork Ribs, carved table-side. Meat comes off the bone with minimal effort, and the brown sugar-sweet topping rivals dripping barbecue. 

Toothpick Mutton, fatty chunks of lamb sizzle and sweat in ma-la chilies. 

The Xi-zhi Wok-Fried Crab is a splurge, but each bite carries spicy succulence. Wear the gloves when eating or remove contact lenses at your own risk.

They hit the San Gabriel Valley by storm, and they're the thing Los Angeles needs. Sichuan food is scarce, and Sichuan Impression scratches the itch and fills the niche. It's one of few, if not only, Chinese restaurants in LA that I can call both authentic and fantastic. 

Tendon Tempura Carlos Junior - Torrance

Carlos Junior opened Hannosuke Junior in old Torrance, and all is right with the world. It's a roomier restaurant, a clean and minimalist space shared by all ages. 

Who doesn't love a bowl of good tempura? They were out of the king crab which was disappointing, but the Premium Tempura Plate was anything but. The breading is mastery, golden crisps of tender eel, sweet shrimp, and briny bay scallop kakiage. Veggies show their full flavors in a green shishito pepper and a seaweed crisp. 

I can't stand eggs right now, but their half-boiled egg is fantastic over rice. I subbed mine for a sweet piece of pumpkin. 

There miso soup to digest your meal, though it seems no matter how much of this light, fluffy tempura you consume, you never leave feeling too heavy or gross. The Chicken Tempura Plate is the same, though the chicken breast is a bit more dense than fish. 

Skip the line in Mitsuwa and sit down in a brick-and-mortar restaurant for your tempura if you're able. Carlos Junior makes a quick and casual lunch or dinner if you're feeling the fried stuff. 

Bavel - Los Angeles

The other half of the Bestia group, I present Bavel, What Bestia is for pasta, here's the group's answer to middle eastern. We approach Bavel at an interesting time, the night after LA's most expensive meal at Vespertine. 

We go directly from a restaurant Michelin adored to the one he wouldn't give the time of day, and I’m starting to think he's an idiot. For literally less than 20% the cost, Bavel was equal in some ways and close enough in every other. My review is a little biased after being gutted by the prices, but I do think my delight is deserved. 

The menu is varied, but sometimes it appears understated, specially with the starters. They don't appears to be quite as much as they are. The Duck 'Nduja Hummus, for example, is simply a smooth bed of chickpeas savored up by spiced grains of finely ground duck. It's served with these fluffy pitas, the freshest I've ever had. You can literally see the dough deflate as they arrive, hot and airy on the plate.  

The Baba Ghanoush is smoky and creamy, topped with a deep-oven mix of chunky mushroom and eggplant. There's a golden-brown sesame-studded fried pita on the side, and you'll have to pay for extra because one isn't enough and you may not even want to stop at ten. 

Cool down with a dish of juicy Marinated Olives. The marinade is light so they're almost fruity, and you can't go wrong with some feta. 

The Cucumber & Asian Pear is a bit of a palate cleanser, and I thought it'd be more like a salad filler, but the blanket of whipped feta is like a thick, cheesy yogurt, and a drizzle of harissa and dash of black garlic elevates the flavors and keeps the dish sharp.

The Roasted Kanpachi Collar is a surprise, though not of an unpleasant nature. It seems more Asian-inspired than anything I would expect from the Mediterranea or middle east. The fish is fresh and cooked to a tender perfection, and the green curry beneath is thick and just the right amount of coconut and sweet. They do suggest you slather the fish with it, and to make that possible, I wish they'd include a little more. 

Lamb Flatbread. They really are the masters of bread. That soft, chewy base/dipper is the real show-stealer here, though the spicy sausage is nothing to sneeze at. This flatbread is a feisty one, and each bite will nip you back. 

Comfort food comes with melt-in-your-mouth chunks of Braised Wagyu Beef Cheek Tagine. There's dried fruit to sweeten the pot, and the sauce is a gravy over a light side of cous cous with cashews.

Aged Half Duck is a meaty main, a skewering sword of breast with crispy skin and a fatty leg of confit. I’m not sure how you're suppose to family style the side of sipping broth, but this dish is all about the meat anyway. 

If I could do dinner over, I’d just get giant platters of pita with a couple bowls of hummus and baba ganoush. Not because everything else wasn’t awesome but because just these simple items were so amazing they could have stood alone. You can build a bakery on that pita bread alone.