Charcoal Venice - Marina Del Rey

I gotta feelin' that tonight's gonna be a good night.

That tonight's gonna be a good night. 

That tonight's gonna be a good, GOOD niiiiiight,,,

I'm no black-eyed pea, but I got a parking spot a quarter-block from Charcoal for free. Street parking in Venice?! Whaaaaaaaatttt...

Tonight's the night, let's live it up. Gimme the specials menu, and let's get some those out-of-this-world entrees and apps. 

Persimmons & Burrata: two varieties, two ways. The Fuyu and Hachiya are detectably and delectably different, one is pulpy and slick, the other is subtle and soft. The burrata breaks down to mozz-wrapped cream in a honey vinegar rain.

The Grilled Kanpachi gives you the toughest of choices: Collar or belly? I can't resist the decadent meat-mix the composes a good collar, but this pillowy bite of belly with a splash of yuzu has no regrets. Small, fatty flakes fall apart with the gentlest touch, and this flame-kissed filet starts to melt before it even hits your mouth.

Beef is easier on the palate, but this Lamb Tartare has some serious game. The flavor is strong, and it doesn't alight, it hits. It clatters like the stealthy cymbal, its own orchestra of dense, slick brawn with a shawl of fermented turnips to soothe the sting and pine nuts to iron out the rougher edges.

Smoked Lamb Ribs are rich and heavy, and both lambs make their own bold statements. The barbecue is dark, the smoky fat cuts deep, and you can savor the soot for hours.

I could have used more boldness with the Smoky Grilled Chicken Wings, but they are enjoyable all the same. I would have liked more heavy smoke to sink down to the bone and permeate the meat, like a wing of coal. Not quite reduced to ash, but the wings are infallibly tender with complements of a vinegar veneer.

Everything is go big or go home at Charcoal. The flavors are of the big n' rich variety, even in the dessert. The Banana S'mores Panna Cotta is a thick base of chocolate mousse with a blanket of toasted marshmallow. This meal-ender is a beast and requires at least 3 spoons to tame.

The Chocolate Peanut Butter Crunch Cake is a satisfying layer cake...that you don't really need. The McConnell's double peanut butter chip ice cream steals the show; delicate slivers of PB flakes crunch in rich vanilla, the best scoop of my life.

Absolutely lovely. Charcoal proves that you can put anything on a grill and make it good, and they do it with style and skill. You get the grit, but it comes with a fine-tuned finness, a polished profile for the palate. Charcoal gets some points for creativity and even more for taste.