Gershwin was American in Paris, and Russell House is British in Cambridge. And I guess the Hickory Smoked Pork Loin Sandwich is a Cuban...in a British gastropub…in Cambridge. The pork has a soft-spoken, mellifluous flow with a sweet accent of apple, but there’s no way this sandwich can stand in a city as deeply-rooted in American tradition without a bang of cheddar and aioli. Shoestring fried onions also break the formality of proper English and adds that loud crunch that can only be the refreshing taste of American.
When it comes to burgers, my biggest pet peeve is when the bun outgrows the burger. Burger patties inevitably slide forward as you keep taking bites, and by the time you get ready to savor that last bit of scrumptiousness, you find that the only remaining delight is a sliver of cheese in a face full of bun.
The Russell House Grass Fed Burger wins Boston Magazine’s Best Wrapping award, a prestigious commendation for the unsung English muffin, a bun that eliminates this problem. My favorite part about the English muffin is the size because bigger isn’t always better. Usually the burger fits snugly into a sesame bun, but here the thick, monstrous patty juts out from every side of the muffin, and yes, smart ass, I’m well aware that circles don’t have sides. Regardless of the container, it’s hard to argue with juice-dripping ground beef and thick slabs of bacon, topped with sweet caramelized onions.
Only one gastropub has managed to make its way into Michelin, because if that’s what Wikipedia says, then clearly that’s the truth. That gastropub is not Russell House, but it still puts 4 stars in my eyes. Besides, the British aren’t exactly known for their cooking so high-end bar food could really just mean it’s warm. But Russell House is an all-around win for lunch/brunch - their sandwiches are sublime. Now feed me a dinner entrée ducky, and we’ll see how it goes.
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