Mur Mur, the Tulum stronghold for Baja's Diego Hernandez Baquedano of World's Best fame, is a must. Whether you're swaying on the bar swings sipping a crafty cocktail or gorging at a dimly-lit table in the back, you're bound to be blown away.
Their signature Mur Mur is a warm-up drink that captures the heart and soul of its namesake. Mescal muddles with tart passion fruit and tonic water, and basil adds a refreshing lilt. Laid-back like the vibe, a subtly brilliant brew.
Justin orders the pink La Flor. If there is a pink drink on the menu, he will order it, but this one is hardly in error. The gin is bold against a mezcal backdrop, and hibiscus adds a pretty angle to the hell-raising hot pepper and smoke.
Starting with a Scallop Ceviche, the menu continues to impress. The scallops are tender little nubs nestled with heirloom tomatoes full of fresh air, grazed by squares of mango sun.
The server tells us that Yucatan Pork is the best in the world. Their pigs have more flavor, and in this dish, I believe it's true. A thick cut pork belly tastes like it's been braising for days. The soft shreds are blanketed by melting fat, and there is a semi-sweet tomato-pumpkin sauce, an ancient Mayan recipe that tastes like untouched earth. It has similarities to mole but carries more sweet and less of the famous darkness. Put it in a glass and call it a cocktail. I could just drink this stuff!
The Catch of the Day is a buttery grouper, irresistible on a bed of charcoal eggplant puree. Everything on this plate is seductively scorched, conjuring the depths of the hearth, and the grouper finishes unexpectedly with recado negro, a creamy scoop of actual ash.
The Roasted Plantain ends our adventure, a banana-boat of sticky chaya syrup, smooth-sailing on sour cream. Not at all sweet, and crunchy cacao nibs add an earthy tree-bark texture to a well-executed dessert.
Don't pin all your hopes on Hartwood when you head to the Zona Hotelera. Mur Mur is more than match for Tulum's most overrated restaurant, and I dare say their dishes are superior in both creativity and complexity. When in Tulum, make time for the menu Mur Mur. They will not disappoint you.
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