Tsukiji Gindaco - Torrance

It took me a long time to like Takoyaki. I didn’t understand what they were about and resented them for not having more tako, so it wasn’t until recently that these one-tentacle wonders earned my appreciation. 

I can't say that Gindaco was the stall that changed my mind, but they sure did help. Takoyaki is a more subtle street food, and Gindaco does it well, rolling a balance of ginger, scallion, octopus, and dough into fresh, fluffy, batter-balls. 

The Original are the original, and sometimes basics are best. Topped with flighty flakes of bonito sticking to a savory brown sauce interlaced with stripes of mayo, these toppings are the best at fishing out the seafood flavor. 

The original are probably my favorite, but the Spicy Scallion & Sriracha add a stimulating burn. 

Cheese & Mentaiko smell the strongest, but the cod roe is more subtle than the scent would suggest. It's tempered by teriyaki and blends with a melted layer of mozzarella and parmesan.

Even one order will fill you up as the carbs are weighty, but save some room for a croissant Taiyaki. Same lucky fish pressed in croissant dough for an extra layer of addiction. Dense like a pastry, flaky like a cronut filled with red bean or nutella. 

My friend KF is a die-hard fan of takoyaki, notorious for eating them in the Mitsuwa parking lot, lest they lose their freshness on her short drive home. But rest assured, they do retain a little bit of their crispy crust for at least 15 minutes even though they lose value faster than a new car being driven off the lot. A little more crispy or less, they are still worth an order, no matter how far from home you have to drive. 

Nishiki Market - Kyoto

Sometimes the best way to tour a market is to sample your way through. Nishiki Market in 10-15 bites:

Sawawa makes warabimochi, but I didn't want to go for a giant box. The Green Tea Mochi is a great other option, chewy and cool. The Green Tea Manju is softer, doughier, channeling a harder bao but just as good.

Manju and mochi are already putting me into food coma, but Strong Coffee at Pulau Deco jolts me wide awake.

Should have waited til Konnamonja for coffee. It would have gone well with their fluffy soy milk donuts, which are like regular donuts but so much better.

Dessert then dinner, that's how it goes. Eel is soft on a stick, and the Squid is served whole, with all the belly roe intact. Might have been better served warm.

I'm almost full by the Karikari Kakase, but we have to stop for Takoyaki. As usual, more yaki than tako, but the soft, starchy balls are easy to eat and have a nice fried flavor.

Between all these little bites, there are plenty of pickles to try. Garlic, daikon, cabbage, melon. Nothing is safe from a Japanese tub of brine. I would have bought some to bring home, but I don't know how long they keep.

There is nothing in Kyoto I enjoyed more than noshing my way through Nishiki. My greatest regret is only going once. There's so much more to try!