Posada Margherita UPDATE - Tulum, Mexico

Let's stick to what we know. Posada Margherita, always and forever. A guaranteed knock-it-out-of-the-park kind of place, Posada Margherita houses a bona fide collection of perfect pastas that the produce nightly, without fail.

Their descriptions sound deceptively simple, but their regular menu is magnifico, and their specials are so much more. The spinach and cheese Ravioli is stuffed with sweet peaks of ricotta with a slurry of spinach, smooth against bountiful bits of beef in a mind-blowing bolognese.

The Pasta with Pomodoro is a special that night, not that anyone is going to notice a pasta on top of a succulent split spiny lobster...but I stand corrected. That juicy, ocean-fresh lobster is the star of the show, but that hand-rolled al dente is phenomenal, and the zucchini is sautéed like a green dream, festive on a backdrop of lobsta-red.

The Tiramisu is sweet familiarity, designed to be our come-down from this crazy feast. It has a thick layer of soothing mascarpone, denser than most, that adds some substance to the top and sweetens the bitter, spongy coffee bottom. 

Gorgeous. All of it. The pasta perfection, the lights from the cozy-cove restaurant, the flickering candle that dances in the ocean breeze and throws the shadows on our sandy-side table. Posasa Margherita is its own paradise-within-a-paradise, and this place alone is worth a trip to Tulum.

La Creperia UPDATE - Tulum, Mexico

I knew I belonged here when the owner handed me my crepe. There is an adorably creative cat tattoo on her arm, and her eyes go endearingly wide and her face lights up when I ask her about it. "I LOVE cats!" she declares, with a sweeping gesture of affection towards the 4 cats that occupy empty chairs in her shop. 

That's when I know that in La Creperia, sipping my cat-infused Iced Latte, is exactly where I'm meant to be.

They know how to brew a great cup of coffee, iced or hot, but not everyone wants to be caffeinated all day. The Mint Lemonade glows an enticing green, and the tart lemonade coalesces with cool mint for a daytime refresh.

I love all the tacos, and I love all the burritos. And I love all the lunch plates. Bring on the beef, pork, and chicken most of the time, but once in a while it's nice to just have a simple sandwich. The White Sandwich is a panini-pressed, crispy-on-the-outside, soft-and-chewy-within foccacia fencing fibrous mozzarella, lunch-meat ham, and lettuce. A simple cafe classic, this one really hits the spot sometimes.

I prefer the crepes. Their fruit & nutella crepes are always winners, but the Butter & Sugar is the best. A paper-thin pancake and a liquid layer of buttery sugar is good I could eat another. I didn't eat another. I ate two others that day...and the next.

La Creperia has a diversity of offerings, but they clearly specialize in sweets. They make the most delightful tarts, a fresh n' fruity Strawberry, and a rich, smooth Nutella, both with a perfect firm crust.

There's something special about this place, and I could sit here all day. The air is warm and inviting, and their simple but hearty cafe comforts make some of the best and most affordable breakfasts, brunches, and lunches around. Tulum has a lot of great food options, but I could eat here any day and every day.

Ki'bok UPDATE - Tulum, Mexico

I love this coffee shop. It's a standout, from the clean modern decor to the brighten-your-day ambiance. There's a quiet calm if you're looking to work, but the atmosphere is electric with an undercurrent of liveliness that gives you the energy to get things done.

If you're sleepy from the heat, an expert Caramel Macchiato will perk you up. Every espresso is strong and sharp, and their delicate dishware makes it pretty.

It counteracts the carb coma from the secret-family-recipe Pecan Bar. Worth the calories, worth the carbs. It is to die for!

I think Ki'bok might be the happiest place in Tulum. Family-run and staffed by the friendliest, most efficient bilingual ladies, the pride and joy they put into this place is undeniable. Sit at the bar and hear their remarkable stories, find a table to compose your next novella, or just soak in the sun out back. This is a place for everyone, and you'll walk away happier than you've ever been.

Mur Mur - Tulum, Mexico

Mur Mur, the Tulum stronghold for Baja's Diego Hernandez Baquedano of World's Best fame, is a must. Whether you're swaying on the bar swings sipping a crafty cocktail or gorging at a dimly-lit table in the back, you're bound to be blown away.

Their signature Mur Mur is a warm-up drink that captures the heart and soul of its namesake. Mescal muddles with tart passion fruit and tonic water, and basil adds a refreshing lilt. Laid-back like the vibe, a subtly brilliant brew.

Justin orders the pink La Flor. If there is a pink drink on the menu, he will order it, but this one is hardly in error. The gin is bold against a mezcal backdrop, and hibiscus adds a pretty angle to the hell-raising hot pepper and smoke.

Starting with a Scallop Ceviche, the menu continues to impress. The scallops are tender little nubs nestled with heirloom tomatoes full of fresh air, grazed by squares of mango sun. 

The server tells us that Yucatan Pork is the best in the world. Their pigs have more flavor, and in this dish, I believe it's true. A thick cut pork belly tastes like it's been braising for days. The soft shreds are blanketed by melting fat, and there is a semi-sweet tomato-pumpkin sauce, an ancient Mayan recipe that tastes like untouched earth. It has similarities to mole but carries more sweet and less of the famous darkness. Put it in a glass and call it a cocktail. I could just drink this stuff!

The Catch of the Day is a buttery grouper, irresistible on a bed of charcoal eggplant puree. Everything on this plate is seductively scorched, conjuring the depths of the hearth, and the grouper finishes unexpectedly with recado negro, a creamy scoop of actual ash.

The Roasted Plantain ends our adventure, a banana-boat of sticky chaya syrup, smooth-sailing on sour cream. Not at all sweet, and crunchy cacao nibs add an earthy tree-bark texture to a well-executed dessert.

Don't pin all your hopes on Hartwood when you head to the Zona Hotelera. Mur Mur is more than match for Tulum's most overrated restaurant, and I dare say their dishes are superior in both creativity and complexity. When in Tulum, make time for the menu Mur Mur. They will not disappoint you.

Mivida - Tulum, Mexico

People are always surprised to hear that I went back to Tulum. "So soon?" they ask, "but didn't you just go there?"

I'm surprised myself. I'm so novelty-oriented I can't eat the same meal twice in a month. The world is so full of new places and yet, here I am, two weeks shy of a year later, going back to where I was.

We trudge in from a red-eye, after a frugal but grueling journey on the ADO. Our bags are deposited at reception while we wait for our room, and we've got time to kill. We sit down next door at Mivida because we're too hungry to hunt.

There is no view like this one.

The food isn't equal to the view, but we're hungry and it'll do. The Salmon Tartare could have had fresher salmon - this one tastes a bit fishy, which the mustard doesn't hide. Avocado is always a welcome addition, and the ones in Tulum are always ripe.

Points for creativity in the tapas. The Stuffed Squid is a new one for me, and the giant squid makes a pretty tender husk. The shrimp inside are sheltered from the flames so they also stay soft. The eggplant works as a texture but finishes a little too bitter, and with the mint it gets weird. Fortunately, a thick layer of aioli acts as a universal unifier. 

They get props for homemade pasta, but the Maltagliati "Polipo" is a smidge undercooked and could have boiled for another minute or two. The octopus is right on, and the pesto rocks. 

I can think of worse ways to start a day, and Mivida isn't it. The view is divine, and the food is close enough. Too pricey to eat here again, but overall not too bad.

Charlie's - Tulum, Quintana Roo, Mexico

Hauling all our stuff to the bus is a pain, and we get there early because we're not taking any chances. The bus station is not so comfortable, so we sit for an hour at Charlie's for ceviche and beer. It's only fitting for our last Mexican meal.

The ceviche is bland, especially the rubbery shrimp. The sauce is on the side which makes the whole plate pointless. Not ideal, but it hardly matters – we are too in love with Tulum to care.

Tulum is our fourth major vacation this year. We have not caught a travel bug; we have caught a travel plague, a chronic disease that turns us into travelers of super-human stamina. We learn to instantly regenerate anything lost, from money to sleep to strength.

They say the sky's the limit, but it's not a limit anymore. The sky is the conduit to the world, a portal through which you pass, in a metal tube full of fuel, squeezed between people full of hot air, for the shortest and sweetest glimpse at a different world.

But when will enough be enough? The places left to see, the life left to live holds endless possibilities. I have spent my entire life exploring all that potential; moving from one itinerary to the next. But when do we stop trying to see the rest of the world and start retracing our steps? It's been so long since I've been so in love with a place, and I am in love with Tulum for all that it is and for all that it is not.

I want to return to Tulum, again and again, until I'm too old to move. To build up a rapport with a special town, to get to a point where it all becomes beautifully familiar is all too tempting, but the Australian outback beckons, and Spain calls strongly to this senora. Come what may, go where I may, Tulum will always be with me, and Tulum will always call me back.