Undercote - New York, NY
From the moment you step down the stairs, the setting goes dark and gives way to the slinky underbelly of one of New York’s hottest tables.
Stumble toward the curtains, utter a small shriek as you turn toward a sinister window where aging meat is backlit in a bloody hue.
Creative cocktails call to us, but I find my gin-based drink too sweet for a girl who only wants whiskey neat.
My mistake on the ordering, but no regrets coming here for a chat. The music is loud enough to fill the silence but not so loud you have to shout, and the darkness is inviting as you walk amongst the walls of trees.
Cote - New York, NY
We ascending from down below to a crafty Korean chophouse that's managed to earn a Michelin Star,
starting with a bottle of easy Pinot from a list curated by my girl-crush, Victoria James.
In a city where parking costs as much as a penthouse, there's a Butcher's Feast tasting for what most people drop on just a few drinks.
$82 buys four meats and an unlimited spread of snacks and stews.
Warm up with banchan and bone broth, a starting selection that spans kimchee and daikon to cauliflower and seasonal pea shoots. There's also a sharp scallion salad on the side and lots of leaves to wrap your meat.
Hanger Steak is best for hunger, a beautifully beefy bit. Enjoy with juicy mushrooms.
The dry-aged Ribeye has masterful marbling,
and the American Wagyu Ribeye is buttery and seamless.
End with the sweet notes of Galbi Shortrib that simply melts in your mouth.
Marvelous meats, but my favorite bite was the crispy crust on the rice cakes which are rife with beefy bouquet.
Meat is the main, but much attention is paid to the stews and sides. Pickled perilla leaves are their best-kept secret. Minty and bitter, aromatic but earthy, when wrapped around a meaty morsel and a miniature mound of rice, the result is just divine.
Don't discount the power of the deeply savory Doen-jang Stew over a fragrant bowl of short-grain rice.
There's also a Spicy Kimchi Stew that has some serious sass.
The standout is this Egg Souffle, which extracts umami flavor from the kelp, and jiggles in a manner most amusing.
With Vanilla Soft Serve comes the conclusion, a creamy swirl topped with soy sauce caramel so scrumptious it sates the soul.
What I love most about Cote is that it is delicious, but what I appreciate is that it is clever. Amongst fine dining, Korean cuisine has long since claimed its place, but it is Cote that preserves a core principle of Asian cuisine, one of which is abundance. Whether it's Chinatown, Ktown, or Little Saigon, these are the places in every city where anyone can afford to be full, and at an echelon where AYCE seems out of the question, Cote allows you to eat as much of anything you want (aside from the meat). Michelin stars are known to get stuffy, but with this casual curveball, Cote can be both serious and fun and cater to every age and class.
