Move over Baroo, and make room for Baby Bistro. Now sharing the podium for my favorite restaurant in LA, this cottage-esque, open-kitchen establishment is the epitome of all things LA.
The menu is 6 hand-written items with the option to add on something else +/- bread. It's designed to be a tasting for two that preserves the diner's ability to opt out with dignity and grace. Whether for reasons of appetite, allergy, budget, or personal preference, you do you with no explanation required.
We did us so we did it all. The signature Onion Bread, Foxglove that tops every menu places a cold concoction of green bean and tomato with a stripe of creamy cheese upon a hot, fluffily-dense chewy-crumb slice.
Unbeknownst to us, we just happened to hit their one-night guest-chef collab with Heritage, and for that we got the Cannonball Cabbage, Anchovy. It's a signature from the Long Beach farm-to-table, a sweet and crunchy slice with charred edges and anchovy cream to add umami. As expected from Heritage, the cabbage itself is stellar, I just wish the portion were a
The Scallop, Basil belongs to Baby, a citrus-bright slurp of the sweetest, most tender-textured scallops bolstered by basil. Dehydrated basil seeds add earthiness, and a substantial sprinkle of Aleppo chilies permeate with smoky sophistication.
The supplemental Salad of Frying Peppers is a play on textures with tenderly-rubbery little-cap mushrooms that make the peppers a bit more playful. Curry leaves set a serious tone, adding dark and earth for cohesion and refinement.
Baby's Blue Prawns, Cucumber are a close second to the scallops on the list of best things I've ever eaten. Chilies give sweet flesh sass, best consumed with the gooey contents from the head. Cooling cucumber is covered in a clingy, creamy "green goddess"-type sauce, and there's a bed of fat couscous for a hit of acid as well.
Heritage makes a medium rare King Salmon, Green Garlic with a skin so crispy there's an audible crunch when you cut and flesh that melts in your mouth.
Dessert has Yogurt, Herb Tea with a yogurt most creamy and panna-cotta thick coated by a cool-cuke granita in a tea jelly lake.
If I had to give a concise description of Baby Bistro (because, let's face it, nothing I describe is concise), I would say it's "LA fine dining", casual fine dining done right. The ambiance is California-casual, friendly service with plenty of chill. They serve what they want, cook what they like, and curate a wine list that contents but doesn't overwhelm. Each dish is exquisite, every ingredient highlighted, not a single flavor wasted. It stands up to anything on the east coast minus the side of stuffy serving, and it sets the standard to which LA fine dining should aspire.
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