Knife Pleat - Costa Mesa, CA

Lunching in the land of conspicuous consumption defines the fine dining in this cushy Costa Mesa mall. Eating amidst elegant restaurant decor surrounded by an eyesore of bright lights and beckoning displays of habits worth more than my mortgage, I'll admit I never had high hopes for Knife Pleat. 

The amuse bouche gougeres are crumbly, quasi-cheesy bits full of a grainy, earthy pea puree. A welcoming texture and I'm all for the less-is-more cleaness of the flavors that shine through the complex preparation. 

 

The prix fixe menu offered something fresh and forgettable-sounding at a price point too frugal to ignore, so out came the Wild Arugula Salad, a simple salad. The arugula is crisp and bitter, the first peaches of the summer, soft and sweet. Toasted pine nuts add a savory element, highlighting the sweeter notes of fruit. White dots of gooey cheese make it stick. 

The English Pea arrives, and we silently shovel bite after bite into our mouths while muttering "It's so good". It's so good we ordered it again for dessert, to consume before our last course came out. We got looks but apologized for nothing. There is truly no execution more flawless than the golden ratios of this dish. Sunkissed peas are fresh off the vine, snow pea chiffonade adds a layer of luxury with a bolder bean flavor in the texture of satin. Mint and a dash of acid uplift the crisp prosciutto, and a base-bed of stracciatella cheese adds some salty notes. It's a mouthful of sunshine and rain, an entire spring garden on a single plate. For this dish alone, one Michelin star is not enough. 

The prix fixe gives us a tender Chicken Thigh in a chicken jus gravy good enough to drink. The potato puree is a little pile of comfort with chips to add some crunch. The fresh peas are a recurring theme, this time buttered. Simple yet spectacular. 

This Duck Leg Confit eclipses everything I ate in France. The meat releases savory shreds, so soft you can cut them with a spoon. Good gastrique, chef's-kiss skin, well-suited sides of starch and berries. 

It always surprises me how good rhubarb can taste. Their Rhubarb Tart is arrayed in picture-perfect stripes of pink, a pretty pastry with a side of fruit-packed sorbet. 

The Louis XV is a luxury, an on-the-nose parallel to their neighbor Louis Vuitton. Gilded with gold leaf, it tastes the inspiration for the first jar of Nutella. The chocolate is chocolate without not so much sugar, the hazelnut puree is smooth as silk, and the hazelnuts form a crunchy crust to contrast the cream. 

A birthday Macaron with pistachio, 

And gold stars filled with passionfruit wrap up an exquisite meal. 

I am not surprised, not even shocked; I am astounded. I haven't had food of this quality in years, and I never expected it, not from here. Well if this is only lunch, I MUST return for dinner.  

Ayara Thai - Los Angeles

I thought there were no good Thai places south of Hollywood, but now there are two. 

Their Khao Soi is the only one that rivals Sweet Rice...and one of few Khao Soi this far south. The broth is sweet and thick, swimming with chicken legs so tender they fall apart when you pick them up.

The Laab Duck has a sweet n' sour n' spicy mix. The meat is chewy, the sauce full of flavor. 

The Muay Thai Wings have a skin of crispy perfection, just dying to be dunked in a house-made hot sauce that is to die for. 

Pad Thai is always safe, and I rather enjoyed theirs with crispy pork belly. 

Mango Sticky Rice is a lovely finish to any meal, and theirs didn't disappoint. 

Finally, another go-to Thai place that's not too far for pick-up. Adding Ayara to a short list of take-out temptations!

Hisaya Kyoto Chestnuts - Torrance

Never met a chestnut I didn't like, and the ones at Hisaya are among the best. 

Accordingly priced, $6 will get you half a dozen of these beastly beauties for you to crack open and feast on the flesh. Pay a little more to have them peeled, but where's the fun in that?

Chestnut flour donuts are donuts only in shape. Far from the fluffy texture of the fried, these are dense with a homogeneous texture throughout. Less sweet but infused with delicate flavors, the original is good, the red velvet is just red, the coconut is cute, and the matcha is even better. Black sesame and yuzu are my standouts, 

but I liked the Mont Blanc best. I am all about this creamy chestnut spaghetti that surrounds a cheesecake base.

Love this little shop, as much as every other place in this plaza. A great little spot to swing by for a not-too-sweet treat, especially after an epic meal. 

Torihei UPDATE - Torrance

Somehow I can only find one review of my favorite Torrance izakaya, and it was inexplicably lukewarm. Well I'm here 9 years later to set the record straight. Torihei is among my favorites, and I love everything I've eaten here. Maybe I went on an off night or maybe it was an off night for me, but I'll never know what made me write that review. 

For starters, the Okura is to die for, and I love that they lean into the slimy texture instead of trying to hide it. The okra keeps some crunch, its slick surface coated with sesame paste. The icy eggplant is a cool side, and the spinach is delicious. 

Fried Smelt Fish have a light cover, and they finish fishy, crunchy, and fresh. Don't get this if you don't like the smaller, fishier fish. 

I never love Chicken Skin anywhere but here. They manage to maximize the crunch, and texture is otherwise nicely chewy. It gets a little slimy at other izakayas, but Torihei keeps it tender. 

Speaking of skewers, the Heart will always be near and dear to mine, but the Special Heart is better, with its special sauce and string of roast garlic. 

Beef Tongue is still my favorite - load on the yuzu. 

Pork Belly is liquid meat, nice with a cold dollop of daikon. 

It was never my favorite, but their juicy little Meatballs made me a fan. 

Fried Shishito Peppers are a palate cleanser on the side. Perfectly perky peppers. I preferred mine blistered, but these are great, especially with breezy bonito flakes. 

Now it's called the Seared Beef with special sauce, and it remains quite special. The sauce is a just-perfect sweet soy-base, much like a ginger dressing but much more gentle, and the beef is red and tender. 

All goes well with a crunchy Robata Rice Ball. A simple triangle of grilled rice with a smear of soy sauce, the texture is the perfect contrast to the tender skewers. 

Let the record reflect that Torihei is among my top 3 izakayas, anywhere in the world. They're one of few that season their skewers, and I love every stick-y bite.  

Al Noor - Lawndale

You'd never find Al Noor if you didn't look hard enough, and if you're unwilling to accept a powerhouse in a modest house, you'll miss out on some of the best Indian/Pakistani food in the South Bay. 

Staples like the Palak Paneer are made well, big flavors of fresh spinach rise above the rest. 

Bhindhi Masala is tough to get right, and theirs is on the lighter side with mild spices and aromatic herbs. 

The Goat Biryani won't win any awards, but this was never their claim to fame.

The real clincher is their Nehari, chunks of beef shank so tender you'll swear you didn't have to chew, stewed in a spicy gravy you'll never forget. Flavors like these are only found in dishes with decades of mastery, and I haven't seen anything like it anywhere else. 

Lawndale isn't fancy, but there's a lot of good food to be found. Look beneath the surface and you'll find that Al Noor's bold flavors and better dishes would probably hold up against most fine dining. 

Mortensen's Danish Bakery UPDATE - Solvang, CA

They've cleaned up since I last saw them, and their abundance of pride and BLM stickers in the doorway caused some fondness before I even entered. 

The pastries are rich, and beware - some things are super sweet. The Danish Waffle is like a giant, crunch cookie sandwich full of very sweet cream. 

My kid got a chocolate covered cookie sandwich filled with chocolate buttercream. Don't worry, we didn't let her eat it all. 

My favorite is the Raspberry Danish because it's Danish. It's a chewy pastry with a great texture, and it's significantly more balanced in sweetness. 

A much better experience this time around, a better bakery overall, I think. I don't know enough about pastry to truly compare it with the rest, but I would definitely make more "educational" visits here. 

Solvang Brewing Company - Solvang, CA

You're not here for the food or beer, you're here to sit and chill. 

Crunching on some chips in the Street Corn Bowl sets the scene to sip some beer or watch the latest game. I didn't love this concoction - the proportions feel off, but don't worry, the burgers are better. 

The Taproom Bacon Burger is exactly the kind of burger you'd expect in a brewery, a sizable patty topped with bacon and cheese. 

The Chicken Strips are a generous portion with a nice side of fries, perfect for sharing with or among your kids. 

The brews didn't quite rock my world, but it's nice to sip a bit of booze. The hazy and the lager were undoubtedly enjoyed. 

A nice outdoor area, great for gregarious groups or those with energetic small ones. There's even an area with games to keep kids amused. Good place to go, nice place to be. 

Peasants Feast - Solvang, CA

The name alone is motivating, and their policy of no dinner to go and no reservations removed any reservations I had of giving them a try. 

The lunch already impressive, and even a simple creamy carrot Soup just blew my mind. 

Mushroom Tacos are full of beautifully roasted, full-flavor fungi, with a texture so tender you'll never miss the meat. Dense corn tortillas encase pea shoots that add a bold and bitter finish and charred onions for sophistication to a dish already so refined. 

You must have the Pastrami Smoked Salmon. Those thick chunks of smoked salmon are so delightful, enhanced by red onion and capers and a kiss of cream cheese. 

The name "peasant" never made sense to me here because I've don't often find fare so refined. Don't miss this place - Even royalty rarely eats this well. 

Paula's Pancake House - Solvang, CA

Get all the pancakes.

Paula's Special has warm cinnamon apples on top. The color isn't pretty, but the taste surely is. The Danish pancakes combine the fluffiness of a flapjack with the thinner lightness of a crepe. 

Eggs can be any way - they make over-medium and scrambled quite well. Try a side of Danish sausage as well - the taste is of a salty and smooth fine-ground pork. 

I got it to go, and I loved every bite. It's the hearty, warm-your-heart breakfast you've always wanted, and I wouldn't miss it for the world. 

Mad & Vin - Solvang, CA

A short sojourn up to Solvang starts with a check-in at the lavish Langham, housing the much-lauded Mad & Vin. 

They start with so many stars for their easy accommodation of our noisy toddler, serving us in the "bar area" so we can lounge around on the opposite side of the lobby. 

The Ceviche is a fabulous starter - the fish is super fresh. A beautiful presentation, and their house-made hot sauce adds to the flavor without overpowering the fish. 

Korean Short Ribs channel the style with none of the rich sauce that defines the barbecue. But the ribs are a tender cut, perfectly grilled, with an infusion of bulgogi flavor. 

The toddler didn’t eat her Sliders so we had to help. They're the best thing on this menu and easily the best sliders I’ve had to date. The fluffy brioche bun adds flavor but doesn’t bury the beef, and these patties taste dry-aged - the flavor is so full. Even the side of fries is fantastic. 

A lovely place, an enjoyable meal, generous portions for the quality of food. It's too posh for kids to dine, but I still wouldn't skip it because their bar-area service is superb. 

Olsen's Danish Village Bakery - Solvang, CA

A little late-evening excursion brings us to the indulgence of Olsen's for some sweets. 

We start simply with a Cinnamon Crisp, a flat spiral of fluffy fried pastry, light and covered with a layer of cinnamon sugar dust. There are so many choices it's hard to get just a few, but this frisbee-sized dessert can feed a whole family. 

The crisp can be a bit much, but this Florentine made us fight. That ooey-gooey caramelized base is covered with a rich layer of chocolate, a giant disc of toddler delight. Too much sugar for someone so small so be prepared to break off a piece and hide the rest or take giant bites fast to get to it first. 

A great start to a lovely trip, but I don't think I can accurately judge. There are so many bakeries in Solvang, and I don't know enough about the Danish to decide which one is best. I did like Olsen's, though, so I'd gladly come back for something else, maybe a Danish or a kringle. 

Running Goose - Los Angeles

When searching for food, no one is running toward the Pantages, and you have to grab a quick wrap or settle for something not so cheap but a bit crude if you don't want to starve during any show you see. 

This one had good reviews, and the Game Lettuce Salad did good. Too much dressing per my personal preference, but it's a nice vinaigrette all the same, and the lettuce and fruits are fresh. 

Baked Brie is slathered unto toasted bread. It's alright, but even with the apricot on top, it's all a little bland. 

Our main is the Duck Confit, with a heavily blackened leg of decent duck, a bed of carrot puree, roasted sweet potato, and stalks of broccolini. All are fresh. Far from life-altering, but nothing to provoke a complaint.

 

Not great, but not bad either. I won't be running back to Running Goose, but there's no reason to run the other way either.