Trois Mec - Los Angeles

Rafello's Pizza glows neon, giving the storefront the look of floppy, foldable slices of pie or a laundromat.You have to know where you're going if it's the reservation-only Trois Mec you're seeking.

Trois Mec is the mecca of French cooking, mastered by Ludo Lefebvre. I expected tradition and precision, but I found trois surprises as well. Creativity is the first and a delightful audacity comes at a close second, and the first small appetizer is a fantastic shock. The Creme Brûlée is a cream...of MUSTARD. Not a mildly spiced, implicative hint but a ramekin bold and bright like a streak of pungent sunshine. This twist on tradition has some serious flair, and each bite is more interesting than the last.  

The third surprise is just how not French Trois Mec can be. Petit Trois next door makes the best things the country has to offer, but here they make the west with inspirations from the east, and the Fried Tapioca is the beginning of a long list of genius. the tiny pearls of tapioca are chewy from the fryer, and the tangy notes of passion fruit dance with the shavings of parmesan snow.

Sweet mixes with the sea in this dried-shrimp Waffle. They fire-grill it in cast iron for a bold roast and a delicate crisp.

Avocado Sushi, gooey and ripe, sliced with paper-thin precision, over a bed of soupy rice. The citrus is breathtaking, sharp lime in airy vinaigrette and a salt cod cream like foamy waves of the sea. The rice isn't quite as cooked as sushi - it maintains a semi-hard texture, much like a firm Italian risotto. 

They offer an optional supplement, and the Ceviche with Santa Barbara spot prawn is not to be refused. The leche de tigre imparts a startling tart as the ice chips melt and turn the raw prawns to silk. The bed of black beans adds warm savor and blends seamlessly with the prawns above. 

Charred Squid shrouds your palate in smoke. Bold char scratches deep, with an uplift of acid-yuzu vinaigrette and sun-ripe tomato blocks.

The use of citrus is prevalent in every dish, and each works a different kind of magic. Candied Meyer lemon uplifts a Leg of Lamb full of mouth-melting fat and slick with gristle. Greens reveal rather than conceal, and every artichoke is roasted to maximize its nutty savor. The lamb is great, but I've never been so impressed by artichoke.

A palate cleanser performs a post-prandial reset, a bizarrely thick, no-sugar cacio e pepe pairs with an edgy passion sorbet. I would never imagine these together, but they're a match made in heaven...in different world.

Another unexpected mix of sweet with savor, this creme fraiche Panna Cotta submerged in a salted caramel pool. It elevates the popping bubbles of caviar, a briny salt-on-salt with the creme fraiche to amplify. 

Mochi with a center of strawberry preserve is my jam, and the Chocolate Tart is rich and dark for a smooth and conclusive finish. 

It's rare that fine dining can surprise me, and Trois Mec did it in a way I would never expect. Their food is exquisite, and each dish is one to remember. I know their menu constantly changes, and I'd like to be back for every single change. 

Sari Sari Store - Los Angeles

“Guess what I ate?” has become “Guess what? I ate!” Food was always a passion in life, and I always believed that life was too short to not eat well. 

Well that passion is gone and I’m left with an appetite that accommodates nothing, and I force feed myself crackers to stay alive. 

This is the first protein I’ve had for days. This bowl of Sisig Fried Rice has bits of fatty pork head are a liquid melt, and the crispies add some texture. The peppers add a little pep, and they incorporate the onion to for a sharper contrast. The gooey fried egg glues it all together, and considering I can barely smell meat without gagging these days so you can bet when I’ve eaten at least 12 bites, Sari Sari must have done something right. 

I almost finished the Halo Halo, and that's another minor miracle in itself. It’s icy and light with layers of watermelon slush, textured tapioca, and a leche flan that has cream for days.

I'm far less familiar with Filipino food, and it's a genre I want to get to know. It's a rarer find, but GCM can always be counted upon. I have little basis for comparison, but I can objectively say Sari Sari is delicious

Kang Ho Dong Baekjeong - Buena Park, CA

Anthony Bourdain loved Kang Ho Dong Baekjeong, and how could he not? I'll butcher the pronunciation every time, but their food speaks loud and clear. 

I love all the meat, but I come equally for the Banchan. Plenty of pickles, cucumbers and this perfectly marinated kimchee, which I could eat by the pound. There's a saucy square of silken tofu, slices of pink daikon, and a vinegary lettuce salad in the lighter selections, but my favorite is this crispy, flavor-packed kimchee pancake. There's even a cold and sweet daikon soup to soothe all the burn. I just wish they refilled these dishes - they don't last long at a table of six. 

We went with the Beef Combo and got a couple add-ons, which is more than enough to go around. The best part is that they cook it for you and a powerful fume hood keeps the smoke out of your eyes. 

Start with thin slices of brisket and drag them through the signature house sauce. It resembles a ponzu but better, and it makes the best beef-bath with a dash of wasabi. Add a few grains of simple salt to make the savor pop. 

Next is a Prime Boneless Short Rib so marbled I swear it could be wagyu. Juicy and melty, this one goes so fast. While your meat grills, a line of egg wraps around in a fluffy omelet. Corn with melty cheese is gooey goodness, and there's even a kimchee stew to go over the optional rice. I love the corn and egg, but same with the banchan, I wish they'd give us more. 

Beef Tongue takes its time, cooking tender and thin. 

Marinated short ribs are more of the good stuff with a kalbi that is to die for. 

Slabs of Pork Belly to finish, and you'll eat it up despite being full. I love the fatty pork, but the beef is the reason we came. 

Quality meat on a deceptively well-designed grill that cooks every slice as even and tender as the last. The short ribs are to die for, and I plan on dying for more real soon.

Hayden - Culver City

A gleaming complex in Culver, and Hayden is just one of so many glamorous little spots in the midst. 

Maybe that was the problem. They got buried and just never got the recognition they deserved. When there are too many choices, people weren't choosing right. 

I love Hayden. The ambiance is one of tranquility with quiet animation. I admire the approachable wine list, and it pairs well with the hearty, simple fare. 

The Charcuterie & Cheese is a nice combo, a nutty tallegio offsets a feisty sheep pepeto and a saucy, spicy chorizo.

The mains are simple and taste like home. The Roasted Turkey crushes with avocado,

and the Rice Bowl has all the best things. Mix tender shreds of chicken with refreshing pickles and ginger and add a warm, gooey egg and soft shiitake. 

It's a comfort food cafe during the day, and the execution of each dish is just perfect. I guess they're closed now, and I think it's Culver City's loss. There's also room for a great cafe, and Hayden was among the betters.

Son of a Gun - Los Angeles

Animal masters the meat and Jon & Vinny’s canonizes the carbs. Son of a Gun sails the seas, proving Shook and Detolo a jack of all trades. 

Hokkaido Uni is a fancy ingredient to carry on a menu this extensive, and the pairing with burrata is as genius as it is unexpected. The creamy neutrality of the burrata extends the sweetness of the uni, filling an impossible space with explosive flavor. 

A few fillers, including French Fries with a malt vinegar aioli that is irresistible. 

They taste even better with Pimento Cheese Dip. The cheddar is sharp, and the pepper tastes red-roasted. 

They do a nice Caesar Salad as well. Covered in parm, a step before smothered in a creamy dressing. 

There's a Lobster Roll, more deconstructed and a lot smaller in size than expected, bigger in flavor that I could predict. Toasted brioche bun beneath highlights the sweet meat and brings out the citrus.  

A cold sandwich, now a hot one. The Fried Chicken Sandwich has a soul-shaking crunch as the rooster aioli crows. 

The theme seems to go south, with fried chicken followed by a Nashville Hot Soft Shell Crab. The crab is fresh, and the breading is nice, but it could have used a bit more hot paste, bless its heart.

A surprise winner, the Country Ham. It's cured and sliced so thin you see straight through, and all that fat does wonders when it's wrapped around plump little hush puppies.

The Linguine & Clams came earlier and last. Big uni notes laced with garlic and a thick coat of paint-on cream, little clam-knots of perfect brine, and chili notes to make them go pop. The sauce goes so fast you have to get a second order to keep the peace.

What, even, is this place? It's trying to be a seafood shack with the makings of a Michelin star, and the Bib Gourmand is well-deserved. Their seafood has a creative edge, and the land selections are surprisingly good. Surely a place to visit, certainly a place to visit again.