"The best restaurant in town," they promised. No pressure, Lulou's, no pressure.
But they would know. My merger grandparents (i.e. in law) have tried every Reno restaurant worth trying, and they're not the type to leave any stone unturned.
I myself haven't been to enough Reno restaurants to make that, but just a single serving of Hamachi Ceviche convinces me that Lulou's has, at very least, the best presentation in town. Supple strips of yellowtail turn to modern art under skilled fingers and an abstract eye. The accompanying avocado is in its absolute prime, and some spicy aji amarillo adds a little excitement.
You can see the raw marbling on each slice of shivering steak. The Ribeye Carpaccio is seared by a seer, sizzling just slightly from a serrano as it bathes in ponzu and Asian pear.
I haven't seen Seared Foie Gras in years. This one is expertly prepared and delivers all its decadent, buttery indulgence. The livery around my favorite liver forms a fortress of aebleskiver, the the most adorable Danish pancake puffs. The little dough balls are undercut with apple, a complementary pairing with foie gras powder.
The Golden Tilefish is layer after tender layer of luxury over a bed of sweet Dungeness crab wonton-shaped pasta. I like the whimsical presentation, and I love that serious taste, especially when punctuated by sweet rings of delicata squash that taste like pure brown sugar and honey.
The Duck Breast is as irresistible as it looks. Medium-rare sear under a crispy skin with an insulation of fat keeps the dark meat soft. The side of duck confit macaroni is an indulgence of slivers of comfy buried in so much cheese.
The Mascarpone Cheesecake is a creamy yet delicate chaser. The texture slides off the tongue like a gently ribbed satin.
Brown butter anything is bound to be a winner, and this Brown Butter Ice Cream is winning on so many levels. That honey-toffee crunch adds some texture, but each spoonful is a standout that easily stands alone.
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