Jitlada - Los Angeles

Some places never change. Jitlada has achieved fame and acclaim for the best Thai in LA, but by their attitude, you would never know. Thanks to a tucked-away, strip-mall location bustling with soft-spoken staff, Jitlada preserves an ambiance of cultured calm, a dark-lit dining room that feels casual-without-trying.

The Papaya Salad is cool and crisp, with clean, even shreds flanked by festive carrots and a cashew kiss.

The Crispy Catfish Salad is an effortless cloud of crunchies, catfish and batter so fine it finishes like wispy cotton candy. The shredded mango beneath is the sweetest surprise, carrying on long after the catfish is gone.

The catfish is a hard act to follow, and the Honey Crispy Duck did not. Not at all crispy, the soggy skin was dripped with uneven dots of sugary paste.

Fierce tears over the Crying Tiger. The sweet n' spicy marinade soaks through every slice of cracklin' grilled beef.

The sauteed Morning Glory finishes light, a bed of sauce-saving straws of watercress. A wake-up from the downer duck and a welcome break between the thick dishes of meat.

They warned us. They really warned us. The Jungle Curry is one of the spiciest items on the menu, and there is no adequate way to warn of its effects. The first bite of this earthy, fragrant curry swamp is a river of elation followed by a searing, punching burn that leaves you senseless. Your head will spin, your tears will flow, and you will chug your Thai iced tea and go back for more. Those pieces of thoroughly-soaked, flavor-burst eggplant will grab you the hardest, but they'll still keep you coming.

There are no words to describe the modesty and humility of a place so spectacular. Signs are scattered throughout the restaurant, humbly apologetic; "Our kitchen is small, forgive us for the wait". It's a moot point, really. Once you get your food, I assure you, the first thing on your mind will not be the wait. Jitlada serves up some of the best Thai food I've had to date, and every bite is enchanting.