Meals by Genet - Los Angeles

Meals by Genet is supposed to be Little Ethiopia's best kept secret, but now that it's becoming known as the Mindy dining project, I'm not so sure it'll be a secret for long. 

We waltzed into this obscurely pretty location with a sleek, simple-yet-chic dining room that makes you feel never quite elegant enough, and opened with some Ethiopian beers. The St. George is a smoother lager, and the dark-and-stormy Hakim is something special.

And we knew Meals by Genet was something special right when we sat down. Our server was assertive with his recommendations, and he clearly knew his stuff. Anyone carnivorous should try their signature Doro Wot because there is a damn good reason they're known for it. The slew of spices sink deep into those plump little chicken drumettes, and the darker flavors are brought out even further with a sip of beer.

We were worried about the Kitfo - buttery raw beef isn't without its risks. But if you maintain an open mind, you'll see that this dish outshines even the doro wot. The beef is impossibly smooth with not even a hint of connective tissue, and the butter makes it almost creamy. It slides down like silk, and the flavor lingers for days.

They always recommend the Vegetarian Combination with the doro wot and for good reason. Why just have one when you can try them all? There was no small number of things to sample, but every single item stood out. The ground sunflower seeds were dark and grounded, the lentils were firm but light, and both split peas at split levels of spiciness convinced this pea-hater to give them another shot. Chick peas and collards are classic, and these didn't disappoint. The beets were crisp and sharply sweet, and even the boiled veggies stood out.

I've had Ethiopian, but this kicks it up to a whole new level. The fullness of the flavors, and the meticulous calibration that goes into the flavors and spice is unparalleled. I walk right by Meals By Genet every time I'm in Little Ethiopia, and all I can think is, wot the hell have I been missing?