I almost feel guilty about bashing LA restaurants in my last two reviews. The truth is, not everything in LA is bad. It's just that my mind rebels against the feigned minimalist approach when it supposedly justifies why my meal is served with a side of sloppiness and an air of carelessness considering how much I've paid.
But some places are worth paying for, and sometimes, even splurgy Santa Monica meets my standards.
Despite embodying LA's casual-beyond-compare ambiance, Belcampo is one such place. The decor is simple and sleek, and the dishes are fuss-free yet detailed. We started small with Tallow Chips & Taleggio, buy even basic chips & dip have character here. The chips are savory like no chip you've ever had, and the cheese is like a riper fondue. Thanks a lot, Belcampo. Now I can never pop Pringles again.
After an appetizer of fat-infused chips, we really get to the meat of the matter. The Grilled Beef Heart is sumptuously-seared an angry red. Looking rough-and-tough yet soft, tender, and utterly unforgettable.
Every meal needs balance, and it looks like Belcampo doesn't just do meat. The side of Roasted Brussels Sprouts is served pretty traditionally, but the crumbly house chorizo really adds to the bitter flavor, and a hint of tequila rounds out the theme.
The menu has a whole section just for tartare, and the gamey Goat Tartare has me bidding tar-tare to my preference for having my meat cooked. The kick of chile is just enough to linger, and the lightest hint of lime makes heavy meat easy to stomach.
The Beef Tartare is a classic except it's not. I thought they had lost their minds by adding smoked oysters, but they highlight the silky beef, and the yolk binds it all together with a slightly sticky membrane that makes you moan for more.
Belcampo didn't just meet my standards; I actually left feeling impressed. The intentionally casual back-of-a-butcher shop setting makes sense when your specialty is meat, and Belcampo serves the kind of quality that comes wrapped up in paper and tied up with string.
I still can't say I'm a fan of Santa Monica, but every bite at Belcampo feels like a gift. I always say I'd go anywhere and pay any amount for a good meal, and at Belcampo, I'll even shell out for valet.
No comments:
Post a Comment