My first stop was in Memphis so you’re probably wondering how I
got from there to Albuquerque in a day. I didn’t. We stopped in Shamrock,
Texas, and I wish you luck in finding something edible and writable between
Memphis and Shamrock or Shamrock and Albuquerque around dinnertime. On the plus
side, it seems that Panda Express has upgraded significantly since I last ate
there…
After Panda Express and too many Taco Bells, I was pretty relieved
to get something sit-down. The problem with La Esquina lies in finding the
restaurant where you’re supposed to sit down. Named for its literal location,
this modest little hole-in-the-ground wraps around the corner…of a basement…in
an underground mall…in downtown Albuquerque, New Mexico…a state with many corners.
But if my description still doesn’t deter you, once you manage to find this sharp
little corner, you’ll find that its food is definitely on point.
I’d never had NEW Mexican food before, but it seems every good
meal with the word Mexican in it starts with a Chips & Salsa. I’ve never had a bad salsa, but this stuff blows
everything else out of the tomatoey water. I prefer a chunkier style, but this
stuff is just phenomenal thanks to a dash of red and green chile. There’s just
no going back after this slightly-watery chip-sticker.
I went with the Assorted,
which consisted of a blue corn taco full of fresh, tender, well-seasoned ground
beef that didn’t ooze a single drop of grease. I usually don’t even like enchiladas, but this
blue stack of corny chewy-cheese smothered in Christmas (both red AND green
chile) would give anyone a little holiday cheer. The side of pinto beans make a
strong showing, and this gringa enjoyed a taste of posole. This gringa will also never enjoy corn tortillas again after a few sweet bites of these blue corn tortillas.
My gringa adventure didn’t end with the posole. This deep-fried Sopaipilla, a softer, chewier,
not-so-flaky pastry puff, puts funnel cake to shame. Make it drip with honey
and you’ll never need dessert again.
When you go to New Mexico, just remember that Texans may have
pride but New Mexicans have pride the size Texas. So whatever you do, just don’t
confuse their food with Mexican. I can’t say for sure which one I love more,
but after just one lunch at La Esquina, I’d say out with the old and in with
the New…Mexican.