Marugame Udon - Torrance

Handmade udon hits a giant Torrance shopping center. A newly-built extension of an already-comprehensive complex, this series of new fast-casual eateries promises to deliver. 

A Kitsune Udon does just that with a light yet fishy dashi. It’s a lighter bowl topped with a floppy, chewy square of sweet fried tofu skin, blanketing noodles fresh and ropy. Get it sanuki style with scallion and crunchies for texture and zest. I paired this one with squid tempura which is surprisingly tender and so far my fave. Sweet potato is cooked through but gets a little grainy and dry in the middle. 

The Nikutama broth is a more complex, concentrated dashi. Topped with sweet, shaved beef and the softest egg, it’s a heartier bowl for sure, and the carb coma comes on strong. Shrimp tempura is good, chicken tempura is tender, and all are golden and fresh from the fryer. 

The base is good, the embellishments are great, and the straightforward menu keeps decision fatigue at bay. The line can be long but the wait is minimal as they crank it out to keep it fresh. No bad choices in this cafe, just decide how heavy you want to go. 

Marugame Udon - Los Angeles

LA's noodle legend hits closer to home. The handmade udon in Los Angeles can be counted on one hand, but the number of eager hands reaching for those remnants is many. 

Marugame has often lead the pack, with its uni bowl of legends, its prowess hampered only by the dozens that got there before you. With Marugame Udon setting up a streamlined Sawtelle shop, those days of Little Tokyo lines are long gone.

Marugame Udon is the same hand-made good stuff, served cafeteria style. They start with a basic bowl and broth, made to be customized by your crafty hands.

The Beef-Tsuke Udon needs no adornments, though I'm sure a few pieces of golden tempura wouldn't hurt. The udon is cold, the beef is hot, sweet, and tender, full sauce soaking each paper-thin slice. The broth is so savory, carrying every molecule of flavorful fat. 

The Spicy Chicken Udon is an unexpectedly awesome, soup that tastes like it fell off the bone with a bold stab of spice for exhilarating warmth.

The Green Tea is wholesome and thick. It calms the carbs and ices the burn.

They only make a limited quantity of Mentai Cream Udon, but a bowl of plushy cream with microns of cod roe brine is a must. 

And if all that udon doesn't do you in, there's light Chirashi Bowl to boot. Tender chunks of tuna, salmon, egg, and ikura will hit the spot, and slices of fresh shitake will mix things up.

Handmade udon cafeteria? I had my doubts too. But every last noodle is al dente, and every sip of soup is as soul-quenching as the one before. The menu is full of can't-go-choices at prices are a steal for such a high quality bowl, and I can't think of a single reason not to skip the Tsujita for a steaming bowl of udon once in a while.