Taco Tour #5 - Guelaguetza - Los Angeles

Alright, I cheated, these are Memelas.

But you can fold them and eat them like they're tacos, and who would even bother with tacos at Guelaguetza after they've had the Memela Sampler? 

Thick masa coasters covered in lard, white with queso fresco snow. It's a canvas to be covered with every indulgent topping; milky shreds of Oaxacan string cheese; strings of crunchy, tangy nopales; thin squares of grilled beef; tiles of chili powder-seasoned pork; grains of salty-spicy chorizo. Add both salsas, the tangy, biting green and the darker, burning red. With every bite, no matter which one you're eating, the fragrant savor of lard wafts through at the end of every swallow, and you won't stop eating until there are no swallows left. Everyone has a favorite among these masa-piles of lard, but I'd eat all five every time. 

Prepare the take-home boxes. The Festival de Moles is made for two, but there is bound to be some Oaxacan liquid gold left over. 

Indulge first in the lighter, sweeter coloradito - it's all dulce, sweet and gentler, round edges. The feisty estofado can come next or last, a tangy stew-like sauce full of green olives and raisins. I poured this one over some stewed pork at home and it was heaven. Mole negro is dark, earthy, and sweet, like a quiet storm that brews beneath. Mole Rojo is similarly earthy but the finish is sweeter with a little more light. Douse your chicken, douse your rice. Drag your floppy, impossibly fluffy, handmade corn tortilla through until it's dripping. Do whatever it takes to get every bit of mole into your mouth and savor every single drop. 

Of everything I've had in LA, Guelaguetza is among the best. Not the best Mexican, just the best. I'd say more about their merits, but Guelaguetza speaks for itself. 

Bafang Dumpling - Gardena

A successful Taiwanese dumpling chain is a much-needed breath of fresh air for what might be the worst strip mall in Gardena. Keeping company with the likes of Albertsons, GNC, and a vape store, Bafang breaks up the dystopia with perfect potstickers and beautifully balanced dumplings. 

#4 sends crunchy-crust potstickers with their signature pork filling, a lovely mix of juicy ground pork and tender bits of cabbage. 

The signature noodle is covered in sesame sauce. It's nothing special but it's nice. 

#6 is a sampler of every dumpling, from the lighter, sweeter chicken and corn, to the savory signature, to the slightly spicy kimchi and pork. Try all the dipping sauces, mix soy sauce and vinegar to taste. The garlic sauce is a good one as well. 

There’s a nice soup on the side as well, this one is a pleasant hot and sour. 

If you're in the mood for an affordable meal, Bafang is your dumpling house. Delicious dumplings and a super casual setting with tables both private and communal will put you immediately at ease, and their no-fuss, get-your-tray-when-it's-ready system makes it easy to wander in whenever your hunger strikes. 

Canton Restaurant - Chao Ca Cho Cu - Westminster, CA

I didn't know what to expect as I walked into Canton. It's a small-stall type of place, a casual-cafeteria kind of set-up serving food that belongs on a banquet-table lazy susan. 

The house specials are as special as the internet would proclaim, starting with the Chao Ca. A gently slurry of traditional porridge, comfort carbs given a sea-savor by soft chunks of flaky fish, all steaming hot in a bucket-pot. Do not consume without a side of fried dough to dip. 

The Cha Ca Thang Long can be intimidating, a whole production of tender fish filets with a seared crust, sizzling on a cast iron shaped like a fish. Fresh dill and a coat of turmeric are just what this stuff needs, and all the other stuff goes around it. I just grab a piece of lettuce and wrap a little bit of everything inside, and each bite is a heavenly interplay of scents and salts and spices, a mix of soft and firm and crunchy. Play with the combinations and figure out what you like. 

Q: how deep fried do you want these egg rolls?

A: Yes.

No meal is complete without the Cha Gio, and these are the most fried of the eggrolls. The outside crunch is thick and intense, and there's a delightfully dense pork filling inside. 

Despite being one of so many in what may be the most all-encompassing strip mall I've seen, Canton stands out in the deluge of delicacies from across the sea. Hey Michelin, you missed a Bib Gourmand. 

Hidden Garden Thai - Culver City

Too far to make a special trip, just close enough for Doordash, Hidden Garden is a hidden gem well worth a try. 

Their traditional Thai cuisine hits all the high notes, with Crispy Shrimp Rolls encasing jumbo prawns,

fluffy Roti Curry to be dipped in a creamy sauce, 

and they even carry the sweet n' sour fermented-rice Issan Sausage.

Pad Thai Boran is a classic, 

but their Crab Noodle is one I've never seen. Thin, al dente egg noodles add substance to succulent chunks of crab. It's indescribably slurpable and impossible not to inhale. 

Casual, fun, perfect for pigging out during your favorite movie or game. Portions are too small for catering but are just right for small-group sharing.