Fine dining can be a clusterf*** these days as chefs vie to be the most innovative, the most forward-thinking, the most creative. Some succeed but most go down in a blaze of garish glory as strange smells assault your senses and fighting flavors knock the wind out of each other and of you. You won't find any of that at Melisse.
An amuse bouche of Prawn features the sweetest swirl of scarlet in a prawn jelly sea with a buffer of panna cotta to temper the textures and let the flavors flow. It's a bite-sized preview of the delights that lie ahead. Every dish highlights each ingredient, all of which are the finest on the market, and each element is seasoned with touches of genius and wafts of whimsy. They uplift and they elevate, but they leave well enough alone.
A Yellowtail Hamachi is stunning in an avocado stole. The fish is meaty, and the avocado brings out its butter, with lighter notes singing in a citrus soup.
Pay the extra for Egg Caviar - you'll never regret keluga. The underneath egg is poached so soft you might mistake it for cream.
Dip, dunk, and soak with your puff of Basil Brioche. The basilar fragrance is singular, and the bread is as puffy as a cloud. The green isn’t a gimmick - you really are eating a field of basil.
If you’re going to get the risotto, try the Vongole Crusted Alaskan Halibut first. This fish is a more delicate flavor compared to a bowl of butter, truffle, and cheese, though it is no less delightful. See-through shaves of cucumber make crunchy ribbons of “pappardelle” to offset a pliable piece of fish.
The Truffle Lobster Risotto is a supplement that almost equals the cost of the entire meal. Leave your financial worries at the bottom of the bowl, for there is nothing to regret. They make the risotto with a firm but tender rice, and the Aged Acquerello is supposed to be the best in the business. Each grain asserts its independence, as the flavors cling to the individual. Each grain absorbs the lobster broth completely, and together they embrace the chunks of lobster, of which there are so, so many. A heavy hand shaves the first white truffles of the season right at your table.
The serious meats are next, starting with the SRF Wagyu Beef Sirloin. It's a meatier cut than most, with not as much of the solid-to-liquid transformation you get with most wagyus. This slice of sirloin requires a bit more chew, with a stronger savor that isn't easily overpowered. A gravy-esque bone marrow sauce oozes over each slice, gentle waves in a brown, caramelized sea of shallots. The short rib wrapped in pasta is the real show-stealer, cylinders of beefy flavor in a cozy, starchy cape.
I’m surprised there wasn’t a supplement for the wagyu, but after a bite of the Truffle Stuffed Sonoma Lamb Loin, it’s not hard to see why. Wagyu may be wagyu, but it’s the lamb that melts in the mouth. Braised for what tastes like months, the juices flow for days. Squash flowers folded with juicy rib meat are a creative take on a classic veg, and a cushion of charred eggplant breaks up the meat fat with some smolder.
A creamy Raspberry Bavaroise to finish; it is oh so very French. A pistachio crumble at the bottom pairs oh so very perfectly, as does the pop of citrus in the yuzu-cream drops on top. The lemongrass sherbert asserts a bolder, more uplifting accent.
Sip on a sweet Rose and feel the bubbles sparkle as they gain traction on the tongue. Paired with the bavaroise, a swallow of this summer wine leaves a splash of raspberry-married-cranberry notes to linger.
A bonus course of Watermelon Sorbet is a breathy breeze on a slow summer night, and the jelly pops like a cool green rind. A little lemon jelly transitions from refreshing to sweet, and the Yuzu Macaron gets sweeter. End the night with a bite-size Caramel Bonbon for a creamy chocolate concentration.
They call healthcare workers heroes, but it's the servers who are the saints. Always blamed and often ostracized, they already put up with so much. Now we've added a deadly pandemic to the list of things they must endure, but if that's what the Melisse servers are thinking, I would never know. The service is swift and impeccable, politeness accompanies genuine enthusiasm, and no face mask can hide their expertise. There is a smile underneath the fabric, courage beneath the face shield, and a fighting spirit that gives me hope. Ample space separates the tables under a pretty parking-lot patio, and a touchless cell phone scan reveals a menu that is as meticulous as it is memorable. We live in uncertain times, but this meal at Melisse makes me believe that maybe they, and we, can make it after all.
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