Madre - Torrance

Old Torrance has always been lively enough, but it’s Madre that adds a real splash of color to the evening scene. Gorgeous decor and live music on weekends, Madre is the place to see and be seen, with a buzzing ambiance that suits all relationships alike, whether you’re a happy hour office party or a couple catching up on love and life.

You’ll love life even more at Madre. Plates of meticulously made Oaxacan food and lip-smacking mezcal cocktails are mesmerizing, and it all starts with a creamy Elote. The butter and cheese carry a hint of grilled smoke, and crispy crickets add their spice and crunch. Don’t get bug-eyed about the bugs - they add something special to this dish.

The Chicharrones are thick and fatty crisps. Fat cools with a center scoop of chunky Guacamole, and the sweet green cuts the gristly fry.

There isn’t a single dish on their menu that isn’t exquisite, but I haven’t found anything I can love more than the Tamal Oaxaqueno. Pearly cornmeal cushions soft shredded chicken as a mole negro unveils its color. There is an earthy grain of sesame and nuts, a bitter finish that makes the dark chocolate dance. A flash of chilies packs some heat and makes every flavor linger. I’m rarely a fan of just a sauce, but there is magic in Madre’s mole.

Even the Tacos aren’t just tacos here, with fluffy homemade tortillas. Barbacoa de Chivo fills these foldable beauties with a slow stew of chili-dripping juices.

I’ve never gone to the same place twice in one week, but holy mole, Madre leaves me wanting more.

Their prices are more than reasonable, but the DineLA menu is too good to refuse. A sampling of their highlights, this menu is a small preview of their skill. 

The Ceviche de Pescado starts things light with a tender fish splashed in citrus.

The Octolan Empanada is a packed pouch of crispy cover, an effusion of chicken in spunky mole amarillo. This one is a brighter mole, more of the up-going spices than the deeper notes of chocolate like the negro. 

The Costillas en Chile Morita make for a few deceptively-filling bites. The meat is a bit more chewy, and the sauce sits heavy with a grittier spice.

The Mole Negro at expected perfection sits regal upon a chicken throne. White meat finishes neutral to highlight the deep-cutting chili-chocolate. As usual, it’s a plate you’ll want to lick.

Dessert is a semi-sweet sorrow, as it signals the end of another amazing meal. Molotes de Fruta feature a starchy plantation dough deep-fried with a bit of fruit in a deeper pocket. Not as memorable as the mains, but there are worse ways to finish.

DineLA was quite the deal, but it’s the tamal and barbacoa that keep me coming. Next time I’ll even wash it all down with a cocktail - they make much ado with mezcal and tequila.